I would just install all screws with fiberglass and slow set marine epoxy per the XXX-er method
I've used this method with 3 spinners and has been bomber for me. 210lbs and 25 foot cliffs
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I've reused pivot holes and bindings on at least 4 pairs of skis without the screw keeper issue you refer to. But if it's a problem, you can always take the screws out of the binding and gently drill the plastic to make more room for the screws.
Also used west systems g-flex epoxy with chopped steel wool mixed in. Works like a champ for me.
Just seems like it would be so easy to cross thread without positive feel which the keepers seem to prevent. Did you just thread them in and hope they lined up or what?
Thanks for the input guys. I figured that’s the response I’d get. I’m still a ski mount newb (have done 2 pairs) so this shit still makes me nervous.
So epoxy and fiberglass even if no spinners? Just make that the plan? I wonder how a pre-used hole is much different than a tapped hole as far as installation goes in which install would be done with nothing but wood glue.
Pretty sure my epoxy is overkill, but it's not much hassle and it gives me peace of mind. When you get those threads lined up, the screws just roll in like the holes are tapped.
Cool. Maybe I’ll drill some holes in a 2x4 and do a couple trial runs before the real deal.
FG & epoxy is best practices. if you mess around with remounts even a little at some point you will want slowset 2 part epoxy and some filler ... get it before you actualy need it
Any marine slow set epoxy will do? I have some FG already.
I don't remember screw keepers on the two pairs of Pivot 14s I mounted a couple of years ago, but I don't see a problem with drilling them out so the screws turn freely.
Another challenge with Pivots is finagling the half-moon/brake assembly so you can feed the screws cleanly into the holes (perpendicular to the ski). The problem lies in the half-moon / brake assembly being cocked which tends to tilt the screws.
Others may have adopted simpler techniques, but here's how I address this:
- Support the tip and tail to raise the ski 3-4" above the bench.
- Get a small clamp to hold the half-moon / brakes down.
- Install the two rear screws - fairly tight but not to their final tightness.
- Install the two front screws.
- Tighten all of the screws
The above technique should allow you to feed the screws fairly cleanly and perpendicular to the ski.
If you have a questionable hole or two, then, yes to FG/epoxy, helicoils, inserts, etc.
https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/s...IgtKw&usqp=CAY
... Thom
Yeah now that you mention it I remember having some “fun” with the brakes in previous mounts. Need to look at that closer.
Mounted a pair of Black Diamond Helio Recon 105 today for a buddy with some Radical 2's he got for super cheap. Very nice looking skis, I have to say. Total weight with bindings 2530 grams per ski. Stated length of 185 cm is actually spot on. Nice.
Bindings have 120 mm brakes, but Dynafits stow away nicely, so they fit just fine.
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forgot to post of my great success in this thread. I had never done this before, but thanks to Boissal for the template + skimoco for the drill bits...
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with the orphaned Bro doing its part as a test mount ski, and some TP for your viewing pleasure
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they haven't fallen off yet...
heh, actually dropped a better line but didn't wanna give it away :fm:
it's just a lhasa topsheet, a 179 carbon bro actually. I should find it a mate, or give it away, but the topsheet is sweet and I kinda wanna just mount it on the wall above my desk (not the wife's favorite idea)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InGtiEXQyF0
Looking to mount/remount a couple pairs of skis due to the whole pandemic thing, but Binding Freedom seems to have stopped all orders for the time being. Anyone have a backup site I can order some inserts and plugs from?
Tognar and Slidewright also carry them, if they are shipping
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fyi waxman's shop has quiver killers listed https://www.theguideshut.ca/g3-quive...r-inserts.html and a 40% off coupon on his page
Inserts, quality wood core, #praxishttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f63f2b932f.jpg
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I mounted these last week -> Lib Tech Wünderstick 118s in 186 and Völkl Katana V Werks in 177.
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The Wünder118s are mounted on the sweet spot / recommended with some place holder Tecton toes and Vipec Evo heels. They ski nicely, and the finishing / build quality is very good, except one glaring fault -> their design weight is approx 2170gr a/ski - these come in at 2000gr and 2125gr respectively. The flex is kinda uniform underfoot, but different in the shovels and especially in the tails. As such they ski differently. It will not be very noticeable in blower, but the denser and the more variable the snow the more noticeable it will be – where I see a lot of dense snow and variable. It is really too bad - as both a (+/- 50gr) 2000gr / 2125gr / 2170gr pair would have been fine. No, the differences are not glaring different - so they could have remained in the quiver - but as it is being trimmed quite aggressively, skis that are not just what I want will be moved on. So yeah, kind of disappointing QC/QA from Mervin there.
The Katanas are mounted at +2 with Vipec Evo toes and Tecton heels. They ski great with Tecton and Vipec heels alike - I have tried both .They are not the most slarvy ski out there perhaps, but they ski great and are light enough for my touring needs (for now at least). They are very intuitive in both good and somewhat crusty snow. I think I perhaps could have gone + 3 for even better tip management at speed. They are a bit on the wide side for (super) steep uphill traverses where BMT109s might be better – I dunno. The choice between these and BMT 109s was a hard one but went with Katanas for added umph. The half price didn't hurt either. Will remain in the quiver where they and BMT90s will be my touring quiver going forward. :)
Didn't like how my 180 Skevik Loken 106 skied with Marker F12s so added inserts for Jesters. Now we wait till November to see if I was right.
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I am mounting up a pair of Brahmas to be my occasional groomer-day carving ski. My understanding is that with the titanal in the ski, the proper bit is 4.1x9.5, is that correct?
Also, I'm planning on doing a center mount but am not sure if there would be an advantage to moving the binding--interested to hear what others have done on their hard-pack specific skis.
lol--yeah center mounted brahmas are the future of park skiing, haven't you heard?
by center i meant the binding mount point which on the brahma is just a little bump on the topsheet.
probably just ovethinking this considering it's a ski i'll only use a handful of times each season, but i really have nothing better to do than overthink everything rn
Mounted up some Enzos this morning that I scored for a solid deal from another user...
The brahma mount is pretty far back (-11 or so I think), so if you are used to mounts in the -6 range, you might like it more 1-2 cm in front of recommended. If you normally ski more traditional mounts, then go w/ recommended.
Fuck it, just mount it dead center.
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Can someone compare the sth and sth2 mount patterns for me? I cant seem to find the link for the template that has all the different patterns as layers to click on and off
It’s linked on Slidewright.com.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Zc7...w?usp=drivesdk
Mounted two pairs of my fucking skis. Good stuff in this thread.
Finding center
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Marking
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Tapped out
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Glued and screwed
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Testing
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Voila
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So I was asking before about mounting using existing holes with consensus being it’s fine but use epoxy. Got the skis today. Wondering if I should trim these volcanoes before remounting? I would assume yes, but figured I’d ask the collective.
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I would
I wouldn’t, but I’m also not sure it matters