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Noticed 7 mm also on the tyrolias. Same problem, but I attributed it to sloppy measuring from my part.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevo
But hey, I tried the same template with the other boot and I got a 4 mm discrepancy. I'll measure the boots, but I would have never thought of that!Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
Good point Jon.
Here is a quick and dirty Boot Sole Center Checker. Print, check scale and splice at the boot sole center line.
http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/Boot-sole-ruler.jpg
woohoo I did it. Mounted dukes on Jj's using jongdrums template. Money!
was a bit of a leap of faith and confidence but i have my ticket in rulers, sharpie, masking tape and a drill so i went for it.
didn't even need to stop for a beer.
Oh shit... you (didn't) do what?Quote:
Originally Posted by spotted dogs
I can pretty much guarantee you fucked up if you didn't have a beer during the process.
The beer stop is part of the template, don't skip steps.
I savoured a couple Shaftesbury coastal cream when I was done....
don't have power or money to buy power tools?
use this to drill and tap
Attachment 127908
maybe not for skis with metal...
just mounted a pair of SollyFits on my Lotus120 Pures.
badda-boom!
used a solly jig to mark the solly holes (thus assuring a centered mount) and then used those marks to line up the sollyfit plate.
carbon Lhasa up for plates after dinner.
PS center punch, then pilot hole drill, then drill.
^^ what's your setup for teh pilot hole?
Who is Shaftesbury and why are you sucking sucking his creamQuote:
Originally Posted by spotted dogs
... and Lhasas plated as well.
Silverton here I come!
^^^ just a small ~ 3/32" drill bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPowHound
either place tape @ 9mm or cork the bit @ 9mm.
EDIT: and it really pays to buy a couple of clapped out drill bits from your local ski shop (the built in 9mm collars make drilling dreamy).
i bought both 3.6 and 4.1 for $5!
Got a pic of those drill bits Pluff?
^^^ i'll get some posted (probably after the 20th though (Silvy trip :D).
they make drilling really low stress as it's impossible to drill deeper than 9mm when using them.
I like to use a drill press so I can't drill to deep. Got one 2nd hand for cheap. Mounted my Guardians yesterday. Thank jeebus I mounted on a 2X4 first, as some how, in trimming down the paper templates, I cut off the front two and rear two holes:eek: Go to do the test mount and am WTF did I do. Reprint the templates and am laughing at myself for being such a dope. Guess I should not have skipped the beer step. Anyways, triple measured everything and it looks like I have a dead center mount with no heel slop some guys have mentioned. Only thing of concern is I can see just a sliver of light between the toe binding mount and the ski. I am afraid I will strip the holes if I tighten the screws more. I did put water proof glue in all the holes, so do you think I am ok? This isn't due to volcanoes, as I trimmed the excess around the holes off.
If it makes you feel any better, on my first mount I was so stressed out that I didn't realize we had put the ski back on the bench backwards. Two holes drilled before I realized. Not my brightest moment. Lesson I guess is that if I can do this it's not too hard. If you don't have any volcanoes I wouldn't worry too much about a tiny sliver of light.Quote:
Originally Posted by liv2ski
Alright, so I need a check on my neurosis. Just got done marking where I'm going to drill for my dynalook plates. I checked that the template was lined up using my calipers, then made tiny pin pricks with a thin center punch. But when I went to measure those marks using the caliper there all off a tiny bit. One whole is a tiny bit over 1/2mm, the rest are under 1/2mm. Toe is off in the opposite direction of the heel, but it should be still less than 1mm off. Because I used such a small center punch I could re-do the marks, but I'm thinking this is close enough. Thoughts?
Edit: I must be going senile as I asked this question last year, and the resounding answer was that 1/2 mm isn't going to really matter.
moar beer
I am pretty sure it is in here, but I can't find it. Either that or it is in another mounting thread.
What's the best way to pull screws out that have been epoxied? They are dynafits with that stupid screw driver Torx-20(?). I fear I am going to strip them.
If I do strip what's best then?
Thanks
Read somewhere here some folks use a soldering iron to warm up the screw and soften the epoxy for removal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bird Blaster
Since I don't have a soldering iron I've used a propane torch to heat the tip of an older, beat up #3 phillips. Rest the heated screwdriver tip on the epoxied screw for approximately a minute to soften the epoxy. Then use a #3 posidrive to remove the heated screw. Rinse and repeat.
No suggestions for stripped screws.
remeasure and mark them again... since you're doing this yourself, why not do it as close to right as you can? It's the beauty of mounting your own fucking skis - you have no one to blame but yourself!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by bern43
Hold that F'in driver upright and pop the shit out of it with one (maybe 2) blows with a mallet/hammer top side. I mean give it a whale that'll 'bout bust your wrist if you miss. It'll break it lose (kinda like an impact wrench) & then push down hard & untwist.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bird Blaster
The positive thing about Torx (& what makes it superior IMO) is when something "strips" it's usually the wrench and NOT the screw - so just regrind the tip (lightly so you don't kill the hardness) and go at it again.
***Wait'll you bass-turds try Torx-Plus... Jezuz!! someday american basic tech will catch up to 21 century...
Well the "hammer-drill" worked except on one. I have a stripped screw head and that thing has to come out. Suggestions?
Will it take as long as adopting the metric system? :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankZappa
Have access to Stripped Screw Head repair compound or a reverse thread extractor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bird Blaster
some 'Deep' Thoughts (apologies to JH):Quote:
Originally Posted by bern43
-how do the plates look when placed over the holes?
-To 'move' a mark, stick an awl at angle into the mark in the direction you want to move. Then raise it to vertical while applying force.
-Alpine screw mounts are more forgiving than insert mounts and there could easily be over a 1/2mm movement when installing the screw in the ski.
-if you are confident that only one is off, you can try installing the binding/plate with the correct screw locations and use the binding to 'right' the off screw.
Hammer a reground tip in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bird Blaster
Try spin the binding combined with the driver.
Try hammering in next size up - possibly T20-plus, an allen hex maybe or T25
Drill the head out
Thanks. I have a T-25 I may try.
How do I drill a head out? Drill until I can get the head to pop off?
I don't have a T-25 here to measure, but when I measure over (would be flats on a hex) the ones I have they seem to jump about .020-.025" per size jump: T8 - T10 - T15 - T20. So maybe a T25 does that too. If so, might not be out of the question to mash it in there.
If you drill the head, go up to about the tap drill size. I assume that to be about a 4mm drill. Maybe a little more if needed. Just do the head so you have something left to grab with some vise-grips to get the screw out.
Screws are probably stainless so if you're just using a high speed steel drill it'll probably get beat/worn easy. If you've got a drill with cobalt in it that'll hold up much better.
Great. Thanks for the tips! I will try when I get home
Great. Thanks for the tips! Worked. Had to drill the head off though.
The plates look ok when placed over the holes. The hole pattern matches the up with the tiny divots. But it's really hard to eyeball if it's exactly spot on. Think I'll try moving the divots in the right direction and remeasure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
i fucked up my mount! got some freeride pluses from splat and put them on my 189cm icelantic keepers last night. i had 7tm tours on the skis previously and the mount was on the B tele pin line marked on the ski. this mount always seemed pretty far back to me, which i didnt like. i had had a few drinks and i somehow mounted the freerides boot center 7cm forward from the BC line! measure twice, drill once! i skied them all day today and then realized my error. however for comparison, all last winter i skied OG surface live lifes mounted on the NEW line (essentially cord center) and liked the feel of the more center mount on those skis. i'd like to have a more forward mount on the keepers, but not +7! i am not sure what to do. maybe remount the freerides half way between the CC and BC lines or +4.5cm BC
holy swiss cheese!
FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCKING JONG
I have mounted a few sets myself. It's easy with a template.
I mounted my Keepers on the BC line and really enjoyed what they could on one powder day so far. A demo pair I tried in a variety of conditions were also mounted on the BC line (I think) and I loved 'em, so I bought a pair. With the long rocker, I'd personally be hesitant to go too far forward. YMMV.Quote:
Originally Posted by TransplantedFromRMNP
One thing about using inserts is that you can set up a couple mounting locations for different conditions or purposes.
Just wanted to pass along my thanks for this method. Used it on 2 sets of skis over the past couple days and it's the best method I've tried so far. It's quick and accurate. What I did to "improve" it a bit was to drill a very small hole through the steel straight edge of my combo square (at about the 5" mark). The hole is only large enough for the tip of a ball point pen to barely stick through. Then I adjust the distance of the hole from the combo square's angle edge so that the hole will definitely pass over the center of the ski as you draw the arc. Lay a piece of blue tape down the center of the ski and then use the pen to draw 2 arcs from each side of the ski. Totally money - no more wondering if I've got center marked perfectly.Quote:
Originally Posted by nb1234
Agreed. I will add, that I've found that you get good accuracy if you do the line crossesQuote:
Originally Posted by Wild4umlauts
~ 18"-24" apart--depends on the straightedge length you use--and then double check along that length with a couple other line crosses. If you do this, or mount a bunch of different width skis, your combo square will look like swiss cheese with all the holes you drill in it. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, one of these little mini squares with precision holes can be had for not much more than the cost of a cheap square. Something like this:
http://www.woodpeck.com/saddletsquares.html
or this
http://www.amazon.com/INCRA-TINYT03-...ref=pd_cp_hi_2
Edit: I'll add that I have the second one, but the first one looks like it might be a better tool for skis as its one solid piece and likely extends down farther for thick core skis. It's machined out of solid aluminum, but if Terry could get some similar plastic ones made up and sell them for <$20 each I think we'd have a killer centerline finder :)
How about something like this:
http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/center-tool3.jpg
I may have mentioned this before, but if you do not have a long straight edge you can use a 2mm or so cord/string to check alignment. By either taping the ends or simply holding it with arms outstretched over mark farther apart you can easily double check your marking.
I find it more cumbersome and less monkey proof than scribing the arcs because unlike a jig that moves the guides in equal increments, you have to reset those brass guides to get a second mark on a different section of the ski...or no?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
You can move the locks or you simply move the guide down the ski until it hits the same width of the skis again, mark and then connect the dots. Brainless, simple and quick. (You need to be reasonably square to the centerline, however.)Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim Jong-un
I'm thinking wood versus plastic.
Then there's the "paper trick" for finding center quickly, easily & with minimal fiddly-FKNAround