Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

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Originally Posted by nickwm21

Attic insulation / vapor barrier - depending on what you have up there and where you install that vapor barrier, you could be creating a mold problem. Get a professional to review the situation…

Vermiculite - even if it is non-ACM. That shit sucks. I wouldn’t touch it without tyvek and full face.

Faucet wrench - Right next to that basin wrench in the plumbing isle there are faucet specific deep sockets and offset sockets.


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Yeah, vermiculite is fucking miserable. I’m half tempted just to have the entire thing cleaned out and start over. If only I were made of money.

The situation with the vapor barrier is already there. I think it’s wrong and needs to go, but I could be wrong. The thing I definitely know I shouldn’t do is add anything on top of it.

As for air sealing. I’m probably going to chase down every singe penetration, but there are a handful that really need attention and won’t be challenging.

epa.gov/asbestos/protect-your-family-asbestos-contaminated-vermiculite-insulation

Interestingly, I ran into some vermiculite in a 1950's home recently. The owner insisted it had tested no asbestos, but the house had a broken open "Zonolite" bag right there in the attic. That's the shit that came right out of Libby and had a class action trust established for it. To file a claim they request a picture of a zonolite bag if found.

Well, the last two posts have certainly got my attention. Like I said, I don’t really want to screw around with it if I don’t have to.

It’s been tested multiple times, at least once by prior owners and by me prior to purchase. Non asbestos containing both times for the results I have.

Maybe I’ll just pull a sample and send it to the Zonolite trust and see what comes back.

Just peel the craft paper. Then lay new batts crossways over those.

It’s not that complicated.

The right faucet wrench often comes with the faucet. Any chance the previous owner or the plumber left one lying around somewhere? Piece of plastic tubing with a socket end. Normally you would use that before the water line was attached. The basin wrench can work around the water line.

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Originally Posted by snoqpass

This one is 19 3/4x 40 outside measurement and 13 1/2 x 35 3/4 inside, ETA... it might be a little bit small...with the exact dimensions I could make the pieces easily, make sure the RO is big enough for a couple inches all around the glass for the frame in any case
Attachment 386617

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Let me go remeasure the piece.

It's 41 1/2 x20", measured from the pointy tip to the base and widest side to side, not including the crappy frame shown.

Attachment 386910

I'd pay $100 for the proper sized frame. It's the one aperture that I haven't framed in, so it's holding up the #dreamshack.

The hole in the #dreamshack framing where it will go is 48x36", so the frame has to be that or smaller.

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Originally Posted by old_newguy

Yeah, vermiculite is fucking miserable. I’m half tempted just to have the entire thing cleaned out and start over. If only I were made of money.

The situation with the vapor barrier is already there. I think it’s wrong and needs to go, but I could be wrong. The thing I definitely know I shouldn’t do is add anything on top of it.

As for air sealing. I’m probably going to chase down every singe penetration, but there are a handful that really need attention and won’t be challenging.

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while it's not nothing, vacuuming out the insulation shouldn't be prohibitively expensive...get a bid or two
(I wouldn't do it myself either)

yes, the kraft paper is problematic, whatever the level it occupies in that sandwich
it's not an emergency, but don't put it off for years either

[QUOTE=Buster Highmen;6416341]Let me go remeasure the piece.

It's 41 1/2 x20", measured from the pointy tip to the base and widest side to side, not including the crappy frame shown.

Attachment 386910

I'd pay $100 for the proper sized frame. It's the one aperture that I haven't framed in, so it's holding up the #dreamshack.

The hole in the #dreamshack framing where it will go is 48x36", so the frame has to be that or smaller.[/QUO

Are you planning on filling in the void area with clear glass and solder in to make a rectangle ?

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Originally Posted by fatnslow

Are you planning on filling in the void area with clear glass and solder in to make a rectangle ?

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No, just mounting it in a rectangular window.

Got two wooden fences, one older that’s just been pressure washed and one brand new. What do folks suggest I use to protect them that isn’t Thompson’s?

Sikkens PPG Proluxe Cetol SRD

Or

Messmers UV Plus

Anyone know a good roofing company in SLC? This need will be for a metal roof that needs stoppers/bars added to an existing roof (what are they called?) to prevent snow sliding down and crushing me as I enter work. I could be wrong, but based on my roof design they will have to drill through it so I'd rather use someone recommended even though it seems like a basic job to me.

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

Got two wooden fences, one older that’s just been pressure washed and one brand new. What do folks suggest I use to protect them that isn’t Thompson’s?

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Originally Posted by ::: :::

Sikkens PPG Proluxe Cetol SRD

Or

Messmers UV Plus

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If I might add to this.

The messmers is quality material and fairly easy to apply. The sikkens is top quality and may be a tad finicky to work with iirc. The payoff is that sikkens produces an A+ finish if applied properly. Messmers can be A- with less attention to details.
Gonna be one fine looking fence tho.

How much fence and how do you plan to apply the goods?

Attachment 387532

If you use Cetol and there's some left over, store it in the smallest can possible so there's no air in there, otherwise it'll turn into gel.

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

Got two wooden fences, one older that’s just been pressure washed and one brand new. What do folks suggest I use to protect them that isn’t Thompson’s?

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I use Flood on my house and fences (cedar)

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

Got two wooden fences, one older that’s just been pressure washed and one brand new. What do folks suggest I use to protect them that isn’t Thompson’s?

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Sikkens
Penofin
Benjamin Moore ArborCoat.
UV Plus.
However you apply, don't skimp and brush that shit in. If it's a big fence, RuffRiders kick mfAss

Electrician on This Old House says it's ok to put 3 prong GFI/AFI receptacles in 2 wire circuits. Comments? (Please state your qualifications.)

Yes you can.

Qualifications - none.

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Originally Posted by old goat

Electrician on This Old House says it's ok to put 3 prong GFI/AFI receptacles in 2 wire circuits. Comments? (Please state your qualifications.)

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If you don’t want a ground, and don’t hook it up to anything else, and want to fool people, sure


half a brain. Am a quarter right now.

406.4(D)(2) Non–Grounding-Type Receptacles. Where attachment to an equipment grounding conductor does not exist in the receptacle enclosure, the installation shall comply with (D)(2)(a), (D)(2)(b), or (D)(2)(c).
(a) A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with another non–grounding-type receptacle(s).
(b) A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a ground-fault circuit interrupter-type of receptacle(s). These receptacles or their cover plates shall be marked “No Equipment Ground.” An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter-type receptacle to any outlet supplied from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter receptacle.
(c) A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a grounding-type receptacle(s) where supplied through a ground-fault circuit interrupter. Where grounding-type receptacles are supplied through the ground-fault circuit interrupter, grounding-type receptacles or their cover plates shall be marked “GFCI Protected” and “No Equipment Ground,” visible after installation. An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected between the grounding-type receptacles.

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

Got two wooden fences, one older that’s just been pressure washed and one brand new. What do folks suggest I use to protect them that isn’t Thompson’s?

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We'd used Cabot on the cedar sided house we had. Stuff smells like gasoline, but the siding looked like new after 15 years.

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Originally Posted by Buster Highmen

We'd used Cabot on the cedar sided house we had. Stuff smells like gasoline, but the siding looked like new after 15 years.

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LOL the original forest service wood treatment was half motor oil and half kerosene.

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Originally Posted by old goat

Electrician on This Old House says it's ok to put 3 prong GFI/AFI receptacles in 2 wire circuits. Comments? (Please state your qualifications.)

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I think we need to consult glademaster


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