Your spotter is not paying attention....squirrel
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Your spotter is not paying attention....squirrel
Some of the best I've climbed on. Quartzite with texture which is basically unheard of, you can actually smear on stuff and not immediately peel off. It's very hard to read though, cryptic bulges everywhere, long bouldery routes with good rests. Everything feels at least 1 full number harder than the rating onsight.
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day 1 in the books, i think the rock got a lot sharper this winter
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third ascent of fitz roy 1968
yvon chouinard
doug thompkins
dick dorworth
chris jones
lito tejada-flores
https://tubitv.com/movies/489615/mou...orms?tracked=1
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fun movie, thanks
The ice i wanted to climb today had a huge horizontal crack across the face.
Ended up checking out this beastly and well storied wall. Intimidating. But the ice is gone in lots of spots and a couple people were getting after it (pictured lower left)
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i guess if it's not going to snow anymore...
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bye ice
Some winter Quarantine action.. Secret spot.. So no one comes by. Checking out a rehab climb. A smooth v7/8 traverse.
unfortunately I kind of destroyed my shoulder three weeks ago in one of the last gym sessions and shoulder moves are a no no... I still don't know what is broken or if it will resolve itself without surgery. I should probably not Boulder for a few weeks but who can say no to prime conditions and free time. And it doesn't hurt while climbing just when I try to sleep on it ;) Attachment 323165Attachment 323166
And I haven't really used my beastmaker. Conditions are just too good. Maybe next week when it gets warmAttachment 323178
My shoulder is on the mend. Getting sendy in a 7b+.... V8
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Huh attachments broken?
Edit:yes seems like it. Wasn't my connection this morning...
not working yet
Here we go again. Quarantine stoke.
I had to work hard to get the little one AND her bike to the spot and back. :D
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How long you spent projecting that problem? what rock type is it?
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Sandstone 1 1/2 half sessions...
Basically did it second go the second session. My shoulder is at 80% max I'd guess. and im Pretty careful.
lookes a bit like the grit we climb on in the Peak district. Really grippy especially when its cold. Good effort on that problem got a bit of everything in it
Much limestone round your way?
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The sandstone in the black forest is not as rough as grit. I had my fair share of gritstone on my way to Scotland two years ago. I did "not to be taken away" in 25+ degrees. I was happy that there were jugs further up. :D
Yeah northern Swiss alps and Danube Valley have good lime, they just lack the vodka. It's rope climbing though. I do not Boulder on limestone (we have a limestone cave right behind the Swiss border 30min away, but I rather go to the gym instead of there).
Edit: and the problem ends basically two moves after the roof. It's pretty lowball.
theres a saying we use here
if the weather is shit hit the grit, if its fine climb the lime.
where did you climb in the UK?
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whats that hand move after the heal hook? one of the little chalked pockets?
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i really like sandstone, wish there was more of it around here.
Sand stone is the best.
I only Bouldered a few days in the peak district and in Scotland.
Both sandstone areas because I'm a connaisseur. ;) (peak and torridon in Scotland)
sandstone bouldering is the best, by far. Gneiss is pretty cool too. Granite is a bit rough and limestone is rope only.
I go to bleau as often as possible (actually I would be there right now if this covid shit hadnt happened ... Easter holidays and perfect weather) and Rocklands was pretty cool too.
Edit: the move after the heel goes to the sloper rail with the left hand again, right still in the underling. Match the rail with the right hand (the little 30cm wide and 1cm deep slopy streak with chalk) with a desperate right heel in the roof to avoid swing, then left hand into the deep two finger pocket(the right of the two obvious ones) , right hand further right. Swing left heel into right heel, go to good three finger pocket 20cm below the top with the right hand . Stem left hand where the left heel has been and go to the top with the right hand. Reposition. Then easy mantle.
We've only got grit and lime round here. Its all i know intimately. Grits amazing when its a frosty winters day, the sun comes out burns it off with a gentle breeze.
You missed out not trad climbing in the Peaks, We have a lot of short routes but some real quality stuff.
Not done font will do this year if things change, missed so much skiing and got 4 pre paid chunnel crossing needing using up.
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let’s see some peaks! and lakes, if ya got em!