Flush is the goal, but don’t worry too much if it isn’t. It happens often. Ought to be fine as long as one corner or side is not standing off kilter or a screw has visible threads between plate and ski.
Printable View
One of my toe screws (Tyrolia Aattack 13 on Elan Ripstick 106) is stripped out and rusted. Looking for some advice on how to repair???
Attachment 304597
IMO;
Easiest. Probably a new screw. [Rust in the hole isn't a good sign - one wonders how much water penetrated the core. But not much you can do about it now.] Epoxy+choppped fiberglass. Jam in the hole and make sure the hole is full of epoxy. Let cure 24-48H. You'll probably want to trim the excess hanging out of the hole - chisel or oscillating multi-tool, etc. Drill+tap again. Wet screw/hole with more epoxy and screw down. Perhaps leave just shy of fully tight, and tighten down, fully, after 24-48H.
Next easiest - for me at least - an insert. One looks wonky, but would be fine.
As noted though, worried about the core integrity and ski longevity.
these things are handier than a hole in the butt
Attachment 304627
Ohhhh I need one!
I had a lazy moment pulling some bindings last week and didn't heat the head of the epoxied screws before trying to crank them out. One of the torx screws came out easy but two gave me trouble and the last got completely mangled, I barely managed to back it out enough to grab with vice grips.
I've been using flexible epoxy (Hardman orange) instead of the faster curing more brittle ones and they really hold on to the screws, it takes an insane amount of torque to break them free.
you never know how a binding was mounted so if you get a stubborn screw use heat BEFORE you fuck up the screw, a soldering iron works good OR if you don't have an iron mount a 1/4" drill bit backwards in the chuck, run it at high speed on the screw head and it will generate enough heat to loosen a screw
Also if you access to a Nd:YAG laser you can focus the beam on the screw which will heat it up. Just remember to wear eye protection and keep kids and pets away from the beam.
Funny thing, it's easier for me to get access to a laser than a soldering iron which I'd have to go buy... I'll post a TR next time I have to pull bindings off a ski and the heavy-duty equipment gets used.
In this case I have no excuses for mangling the screw, it was my mount on my skis, I knew I should have used heat and got impatient.
Yeah you need an iron closer to 100W IME, I had a good one that burnt out and the last one I got isnt strong enough
sometimes I forget about the heat and start to mangle the screw,
heating up the screw with a lazer would be next level
I used heat gun, boiling water and soldering iron then tried the impact driver which finally fucked the screw so I had to use extractor. I mounted it with orange Hardman so I knew what was in there. I spent 98% of my time on that one stupid screw.
I think the problem was that I used an old screw with a fucked up head
how do people feel about reusing mounting holes. I had a pivot heel break off on the baseplate and replaced it with another one. Just unscrewed the old one and woodglued the new one in. hasnt given me trouble yet