Crazy good deal for Clydesdales. These are heavy AF, possibly the burliest binding ever, comparable to Soli 920.
2015 Rossignol Axial2 180 Maxflex Ski Bindings | NEW | RCDA001
Rossi claims you need race places for these, but I doubt that's true. You'll need to bend the brakes, or get Look Racing wide brakes specific for their worm-screw heels (which are very hard to find).
Note, these require the PX racing template.
Oddly...I actually managed to fuck up on the forward pressure adjustments on these. Thinking I may cut off the toes from the plate and find some pivot heels to reuse.
Yeah, you could just cut off the plastic shroud an inch behind the AFD. If you did some measuring and test mounting on a board, you might be able to drill & rivet the heel end of the stainless strap to the heel track, and convert the heel from a floating race design to a standard worm screw heel.Quote:
Originally Posted by doebedoe
I have the DIN 15 version of these but haven't tried mounting them flat on a ski yet. Don't see any reason why it wouldn't work though, other than less ramp than I prefer (Salomon STH ramp).
For someone who hasn't fondled these and doesn't know much about race stuff, how does the forward pressure setting work and what do you mean about the floating heel?
I've got a pair of Legend Pros that need clamps and these seem suitably burly.
The forward pressure is a worm-screw adjustment, like Solomon 914/916/STH-14/STH-16 or Marker Griffon/Jester. But the Maxflex worm screw doesn't key into a ladder cut into the heel track like 914/916/STH-14/STH-16/Griffon/Jester, it hooks into a ladder cut into the tail end of a stainless steel strap connected to the toe. That way ski flex has no effect on the forward pressure. It's a precision race binding thing.
All bindings without a "floating" race heel experience forward pressure fluctuations as the ski flexes. Race bindings eliminate that inconsistency, and eliminate the "hard spot" in the ski under the foot (due to a rigid boot and binding) so the ski is free to flex naturally.
I've converted these to non-floaters exactly as 1000-oaks describes above for a sit skier after he snapped a ski and twisted the strap all up. Same with solly lab binders, just set the float slightly forward of the middle of the range and pin the strap with a screw. Cut off the excess. But for the record there's nothing wrong with running them as is, I've had a pair on several skis without a plate, but you might want to shim to get them set up correctly. And the brakes will fit ~95mm without much bending at all.
You can use the old look mounting template to mount these even if it doesn't have holes for them. Front heel screws to rear heel screws on center is 80mm for the px race, 105mm for the px/spx, and 130mm for px demo. So you can use the jig to drill the toes and front heel holes, mark the rear heel holes for the standard px/spx, then close the jig 25mm to line up your marks under the spx demo holes. Drill the spx rear heel holes that are now 80mm from the already drilled front heel holes. Bob's your uncle.Quote:
Originally Posted by doebedoe
In case you ever need to perform that unlikely and specific operation.
Thanks, makes perfect sense. Ordered a pair.
Hopefully the combo of these, LPs, and Raptor 140RSs with Zipfits (~2600g per boot) doesn't rip my legs off at the knee when dangling off a chair. :D
Negative. Combo like that means you can ski through brick walls. :yourock:Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
That's definitely the idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZomblibulaX