You can do a finger check on spoke tension to see if that might be the issue.
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^^ thx. i did do a quick check by flexing 2 spokes at a time and didn't notice anything too obvious. maybe i'll do a more thorough check.
When you do the finger test, make sure you're grabbing spokes that are parallel, not forming a wedge.
That said, it's entirely possible to warp tire casing, and not have it visually apparent when the tire is off the rim. I've had that happen multiple times with both EXO, EXO+, and DD casings when installing various inserts, probably from relying on the tire lever too much. My current front tire has a similar wobble to it, and it drives me nuts.
how hard is it to swap a rear shock? Like is it as simple as removing the old one and putting on a new one? Just have to have all the right torque wrenches I'm guessing? remember to release all the air pressure?
I have a Fox DPX2 rear shock on my "back-up" bike: Yeti SB130. I got the suspension serviced late last summer and did ride the bike pretty often in the fall. I haven't ridden it all in 2022 and I went to ride it this past weekend, and it was super squishy, holds air, but sounds like it needs to be serviced again.
A quick look on pink bike and our local used outlets shows I can basically buy a "new" take-off of a Fox Float X for a little more than servicing the rear shock again. This is also the shock that Yeti now specs the SB130 with. I understand the sizing: my bike is a Yeti SB130 and needs a 210x52.5mm or 210x55mm (LR) rear shock.
Can I use the existing hardware on the bike for the new shock? Do I need to stay within brand? or can I go with a RockShox instead of Fox?
Anything to look for on the rear shock before purchasing? (i'll probably just shop locally)
If you keep the same size in the same brand, its typically super easy. The part you have to think about is making sure you have the right mounting hardware. Typically if you keep it within the same brand you can swap the hardware from your old one to your new one. You might need a DU bushing pressed in depending on mounting hardware but that bushing is literally $2. If you dont want to bother swapping the mounting is cheap as well.
You can go with Rockshox so long as you match the shock size, mounting hardware width and diameter as well.
The actual swapping of the shock is easy. But you need to make sure you have the right size shock, and you'll generally want to make sure the new shock has the same tune as your old shock. Shocks are generally tuned from the factory for a specific frame, so if you're replacing the shock with a take off from the same frame, you'll be fine, but if it's from a different bike, the tune will likely be different. You can get a shock re-tuned for your bike, but that's expensive enough that it's often not worth it.
Start by figuring out what the tube on your shock is. Fox shocks have a code on them you can put into their website to get the tune into. Rockshox have a series of letters on them saying roughly what the tune is. Then look for a shock that has the same (or similar) tune.
spokes are under tension so I hit them with wrench & listen to the sound they make, its either a high pitched ting or a dull thunk and from that i can tell which are loose, for a quick check i can rotate a wheel with a wrench on the spokes and check them all in 30 sec, if yer not sure how they should sound compare the tone to a good wheel
be aware the spokes on the drive side will be under higher tension than the non-drive side cuz of wheel dish
poor mans truing stand is to use a zip tie on the frame as a reference while you rotate the wheel/ tightening or loosening spokes
What do you guys do when you come home with a wet bike? Two days in a row I drove through a rain storm on the way home from riding.
I bounce the bike up and down on the rear wheel a bunch of times to shake water off, then put a fan pointing at the drive train for a few hours. Relube after that.
Is this over the top? Too much? Too little?
Zee brakes - o ring on both sides of the banjo? Got a little intermittent trickle right there I need to figure out, which of course has now contaminated pads and rotor.
I rinse with holy water blessed by the Pope then gently wipe dry only with a chamois made from goat skin in a remote valley of the Pyrenees who have been making chamois cloths since the days of Charlemagne.
Just throw it in the garage, it’s a bike, it’ll be fine. Do your standard post-ride wipe down of the stanchions and chain and then relube. Or not, your bike probably won’t notice a difference.
I knew I was missing something so I appreciate the advice on the shock tune. I knew trying to find a take-off from the same bike would be ideal but wasn't sure how well you could just plug another shock in that was taken off a different bike. Turns out probably not that well, but maybe....
My bike lives under a topper in the bed of my truck, and right back it goes after rides and after the occasional rinse. With the doors closed, it’s a billion percent humidity in there, so nothing really dries. As long as I keep the chain lubed, I’ve never had any issues.
I'm in this camp also. Felt the RWC was excellent. Ran mine first on a SC Tallboy, then on a SC Hightower. Improved small bump in both cases. I am not running one on my Rowl because the shock travel is incredibly linear. Otherwise I would be.
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I have a druid virgin that comes in to do light house keeping and clean my bike
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Is this excessive?
If there was an option to pay $1 more for a new rotor without bolts, I might go for it. I’m incapable of throwing out “spares”.
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No idea who AKPM is
unless I am going to put it in the dining room I rarely wash the bullit
I keep getting my feet blown off the pedals on flats. Have been riding flats for ever, never clips.
I have brand new 5'10 Free rider pros and fairly fresh Chromag Dagga's. I'm also on a fairly new (full summer on it) Bronson.
I've never really expereinced this before, like blowing off on easy blue tech trails, and sometimes even on climb trails it just slips off. I replaced my old freerider pros cos they were sliding around and were pretty punched.
Trying to figure out if its the pin placement on the pedals, my shitty riding, the shoes, the bike. I just remember getting new 5'10s and barely being able to move my foot on the pedal, to the point it was sketchy. Definitely not the case now.