Originally Posted by
Ottime
Friday here was epic proportions of sickness. Surf ranges from OH to DOH and crisp. Such a sick afternoon session. Especially considering we had south winds, rib chop and wind swell before noon.
Saturday and Sunday were super fun, but not as crisp and perfect as Friday afternoon. Still got some real bombs the past few days.
I love this area. Town liked fun but we have such good breaks for the juice just west and north of town that get hit straight with the power.
I’ve been surfing a ledge reef that kind of loses its channel at this size. It just explodes across the reef. Loving that I’m still in the game at my late age.
Finally got some
Beat downs on Sunday. After an hour on my 6’7” pin tail mini mini gun, I decided to switch it up with the performance 6’0”. Got some killer waves on that small board. Also took some of my heaviest beat downs so far this season. Ended up slicing the back of my wrist across the reef after stumbling on a bomb, landing on the face, sliding across it right next to my board just as the lip crushed me down and under into the jet propeller (it was more than a washing machine) pushing me into and dragging me along the reef. Ended up with two pin hole dings to boot. Recovered, got out the sort of channel and saw my slice. Paddles back into the reef to catch a smaller on in. Called it a day.
NW kick back up today bringing the festivities back into town.
Love love love this season.
Love the feeling of sitting on a cliff, suiting up and wondering if I’ve got the balls on that given day to make the most out of the power. Love being just a little scared.
Man the left I got coming I. Saturday was ducking all time for that reef. Best left in years. DOH, full barrel coming across the reef, and then peeled hard for 75 yards. So fast and fun.
Looking out the window, fog just filled into town. Wtf. If