The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA
Quote:
Originally Posted by
1000-oaks
Ok, corrosion then, not necessarily rust. I'm not a scientist and can't explain it, but corrosion pockets between stainless and a coating is a thing.
I believe that, although I think all the memories I have of stainless steel rusting were just weld joints.
Regarding corrosion in ski inserts. If they're made of passivated stainless steel, which apparently really is a thing, then the increased area due to surface roughness means more exposed chromium in a smaller space, which means more oxidized chromium and greater corrosion resistance.
Passivation for greater grippiness in the ski is a nice idea. I wouldn't be surprised if it helps, but it's not why you'd typically choose passivation.
The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA
Quote:
Originally Posted by
shaft
I noticed that when I release from these bindings and get back in, there is all kinds of play in the toe and they become the worst bindings in the world. It's like the vertical AFD adjustment has reset to a lower position. Happened three times last year. Is this a common issue?
Apologies, I didn't have a chance to search the 86 page thread in its entirety
Quote:
Originally Posted by
galibier_numero_un
The answer to correctly adjusting the AFD height is indeed in this thread.
Persist and you'll be rewarded ;-)
... Thom
Lee Lau wrote an article on NewSchoolers that summarized the issues and fixes identified in this thread. I'd go out on a limb and say it's pretty much a definitive guide to conquering the quirks of the binding.
Search for the "SHIFT ISSUES" header in this article:
https://www.newschoolers.com/news/re...n-Atomic-Shift
The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA
Quote:
Originally Posted by
shaft
^Wow, big ups to lucknau and LeeLau! Still a little confused on the forward pressure.
Looks like the back edge of the rectangle is supposed to line up with the arrows, correct?
Stepped AFD adjustment makes a lot of sense wrt last year's issues.
I set mine so the back of the metal piece is flush with the housing. The green line in the instructions is indicating this, to my eye. I think this puts the back of the square inline with the arrows. I've never had prerelease problems. I think some people who've had problems have adjusted the binding the way it's pictured in the article with good results, where the back of the metal piece is flush with the arrows. I'd try the other way first. Some of the prerelease issues have been due to snow packed under boot heels and binding parts, so be hyper vigilant about keeping that cleaned out. The heels have quite a bit less elasticity than trad alpine bindings.