Originally Posted by
ml242
I'm the guy who took the groundfall. I'm very lucky to have sustained minor injuries only. I've already starting taking steps without crutches and if all goes well should be climbing again in 6 weeks or so (if fractured shoulder blade is all healed up).
For what it's worth, I don't think Samourai should be bolted. I also would have said it protected well had my foot not popped at the crux and I'd made that move, but i didn't pull the crux and my gear didn't hold... I am truly baffled that it didn't, because I thought the #.3 i'd placed in the roof crack was bomber. (I fell on that very piece in a similar placement on the roof exit of a very wet Sceptre in the spring.) To the right of that .3, i placed a #2 in the undercling/sidepull slot which, again, looked pretty good to me. i had a solid stance while placing my gear so was by no means stressed out or rushed. the other 2 pieces I placed (there were not 5, but 4 pieces in all) were an old alien i didn't feel so good about (can't remember where exactly, somewhere before the .3) and a # 3 in the obvious right flaring crack which ripped out as I was tumbling head over heals after hitting the ground.
a little about me, I've onsighted 5.10 in val david and the gunks, bouldered v7, sport climbed up to 12+ (onsight up to 11+). i've been trad climbing for 5 years.... i've taken 20 foot whippers on gear multiple times and have no qualms about taking on gear when i feel i'm over my head. this is the very FIRST time I've had a piece rip on me (never mind 4!)
Though I am extremely grateful for the relatively very minor injuries i sustained, what I'm feeling more of is bewilderment at my gear failure. If experienced trad climbers reading this can offer any constructive criticism or advice here, i'd greatly appreciate it because of all the types of climbing i do, trad is my favorite. i love everything about it and certainly hope to get back to it as soon as my body will allow.
I'd like to end by giving the Val David crew that helped me immediately after impact (they were working nearby) and the medics and firefighters that carried me down the mountain a huge thank you hug and kiss for taking such great care of me every step of the way.