cowhampshire this morning
swell overhyped. sometimes best kind.
looked at the cams this morning and couldn't see squat due to a redonkulously high tide. saw 4 ft at 12 seconds with light offshores tho. good day for the blunt.
headed over to have a look and many popular spots were empty. guess most other folks rolled back over after looking at the cams, i almost did, glad i didn't.
showed up at RR and saw just 2 dudes bobbing in the water. looked good as i pulled up as a set was coming through. paddled out with another dood as those 2 other doods were finishing up, leaving just the 2 of us for the next hour plus. we just traded lefts back and forth the whole time and remarked how great it was to have such a popular spot all to ourselves. waves were supposed to be much bigger, but we both agreed that we'd rather have perfect smaller waves and no crowds.
the tide was so much higher than normal that we were surfing right over an area that is most often a very exposed rocky point littered with boulders. twas fun to ride right across the whole thing with those boulders visible just a couple/few feet below the surface.
should be fun in the morning with some snow possible.
anyone else riding lost surfboards out there? love my blunt! only board i own and ride year round.
end novel
rog