Festool is the best. But damn Spendy.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
If you do lots of drywall a palm sander is silly.
The larger sanders are so worth it n
Printable View
Festool is the best. But damn Spendy.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
If you do lots of drywall a palm sander is silly.
The larger sanders are so worth it n
Reading comprehension. Painting an old house. Drywall repair from artwork, shelves etc. This thing is perfect. It's not for sheetrock taping mudders doing a whole house.Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
The DIY house painting continues. Hopefully we get this done before the rainy season! :)
Attachment 468414
Funny how this looks blue in the photo. It's really dependent on the lighting. I'd say the paint color is more greenish, but the color is called "Knoxville Grey."
https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/...knoxville-gray
You know they sell sprayers for about $300-400 at Harbor FreightQuote:
Originally Posted by The AD
We have a sprayer (Graco Magnum X7) and my wife plans to use it for the second coat on the front of the house, which is shingles. I think her rationale for using a brush and roller elsewhere is that, since the house is cedar, if the paint were sprayed she'd still need to back brush, so does the sprayer really gain any time at that point? Maybe, but then you also need to mask everything. I think there's also the factor that she's got her current method dialed in and doesn't want to mess with it.
Shingles are for roofs. Those are called shakes and backbrush those too.
If I was doing that job, I would have backbrushed the primer and 1st coat too. Spraying is definitely faster, even w/ the backbrushing
This $150ish amazon sander is awesome. Hooked up to a shop vac with a bag and HEPA filter pretty much eliminates dust.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b4c0f8d49d.jpg
I bought this house from an industrial painter so the neighbor said apparently he had it done with a sprayer in a day
I think the paint they would have used at the siding factory is pretty good stuff altho it was a ugly green so all he had to do was pwrwash and spray
That was maybe 15 yrs ago so I wonder how long before I should get it redone ??
The main benefit to spray and back brush is that you get more paint on the house which means it will last longer before you have to do it again.
Sent from my Turbo 850 Flatbrimed Highhorse
I was thinking the main benefit is less dipping the brush or roller.
Squirt paint. Back brush for texture and control drips.
The main benefit to backbrushing is working the material in. XXX'rs aluminum siding I wouldn't backbrush
As far as sander/hepavac systems go, I don't think the Festool is better than the Mirka systemQuote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
Yeah, that was my understanding. Need to get that paint or stain penetrating as much as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
Any of you dentists need D&G appliances?
Attachment 468482
Wow, those are unique!
The fact there's actually a brand of fridge called "Smeg" never ceases to crack me up.
They also have smeg coffee makersQuote:
Originally Posted by The AD
shmee... shemeeg...
Should I buy an induction stove top or stick with gas?
Transition to inductionQuote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
That’s where we are all headed
Attachment 468527Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
Definitely induction. In the last 2 years we replaced an electric resistance coil stove with an induction stove, then moved to a house with a pretty nice gas stove. The induction stove was a million times better, to the point where we've talked about tossing out this perfectly good gas stove and replacing. And our induction stove was the cheapest one around - the Frigidaire Gallery stove.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
With induction, you don't heat the whole house when you turn the stove on (granted, this is more of a concern in the summer), it's odorless, and all the energy goes right into your cooking vessel. Boiling water for a few cups of tea took like 20 seconds, it was amazing. Way easier to keep clean too.
Ok thanks fellas. Appliance guy was suggesting just getting the induction cooktop (Empava) separate and then locating the oven by itself. Said if induction top goes you just replace it and you don't replace the whole range. I like the look.
Attachment 468530
I'm not sure *how* annoying a cooktop without knobs would be, but if you dislike those, in general, keep in mind you can get "old school" induction with regular knob controls.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
…..assuming you have the correct flavor of power to the correct spot….
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Our cooktop and oven are separate units, even though the cooktop is right over the oven. We did that because it was the only way to get the colors we wanted. Seems like it’s going to pay off if I can find an induction too to replace the standard electrical glass too we have there now. Just has to fit in the existing counter hole.
How are the rebates/incentives for inductions these days?