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NB totally blew this evening. Got a bunch of waves and one that was a real race all the way through the inside. Trying to decide between a day break high tide session up north, or a dropping tide run on west cliff. Low tide was money this evening. No one out except for 500 or so of my closest friends.
Almost a +7 on my way into work this morning, not much showing...full moon tonight, crazy tides. Heard yesterday was amazing, as I sat in my office the entire day.
so this august i moved from the sf bay to colorado for school... i am a surfer/skier so i had to choose between the 2...
worst part of my decision: the swells out here are usually pretty flat
best part of my decision: the mountains are quite the opposite ;)
Just got in from Scotts. It is not small, with the big sets rolling in every 20-30 minutes. I was on a 7'6" and honestly wish I had my bigger board for the sets. But, hey, I am out of shape and old. No wind, solid swell. The AM should be interesting.
Only had my crappy P&S, and at this distance, quality suffers.
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It looked overhead, but not huge, so I felt pretty good about the mini gun.
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Today reminded me of the poster who thinks SC is full of crowded worthless waves. 6 guys out. 10' plus faces. Not a whiff of wind.
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Yesterday morning was less than huge, but still plenty of swell along the coast. Scotts had the usual Saturday crowd of 20+ folks. Faces were in the 10' plus range.
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Found a good vantage point to watch this pair tow a few thick ones. Not huge, but I know this spot to be heavy. Like a house falling on you.
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This other spot we had to ourselves for about two hours. Plenty to go around between friends.
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Then a crew of 12 showed up.
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So we split and took a few pics before grabbing some lunch.
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I don't know about the ret of you folks on the west coast, but I had a few solid weeks surfing. Little to no wind and long period swell every day. Tuesday this last week was the poorest with merely 14 second periods, head high and a slight jumble. The week ended for me at one of my favorite and more feared slabs in the county. It was a very good day indeed. Wednesday evening was perhaps the highlight, with a great clean overhead incoming long period swell, few out, oil glass, and tide almost perfect. Oh, and it was 72F.
The next morning, I got to this spot just a bit late. A south breeze was beginning to push and the tide dropping out too quickly.
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Makes me want a better camera.
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Down the coast things were looking fun at the lighthouse.
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Plenty of folks out, but not super crowded.
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The nice thing, was right behind us, the Monarchs had settled.
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And just a shot from after surfing on Tuesday, reminding me life is good.
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Left the office early on Friday and scored mid-day Huntington, a couple hundred yards north of the pier, right in front of the hotel, or whatever that thing is. Surfed from 1130-130, several feet overhead, sheet glass. There was a sick right coming in, the lefts were a bit more pick and choose, but really good on the right one. The south side of the pier was absurd, but a bit too crowded, so I went north. There were peaks to be had all up and down the beach.
This has been a great couple of weeks of surf down here. That combined with slushy Mt. Baldy afternoons has made it a good couple of weeks to skip Mammoth.
Last Friday turned out to be pretty decent too, up in this neck of the woods. A bluff scene.
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I arrived to a crowd of five. Paddled out and had a good opportunity to find a few select waves.
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But with a nice overhead long period swell, no wind and 70F+, the weekend begins early. And the hordes arrived.
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There was still enough to go around. You may need wait a bit longer for your turn, but when you get 150 yards of this when you are up, the wait can be worth it.
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The outside was working. The inside was working. The whole damn thing was working. A pretty nice swell direction for sure.
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With this perfect weather on the way out, this may be the last swell like this we see for a spell. This guy decided to make the most of it.
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Very very nice! Wish I was lucky enough to get some of those.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
Some of that swell filtered into San Diego on Saturday. Glassy and some punch, best shack of the winter for me so far. Drop in, check it off the top real quick, come around bottom and it started to setup nice. I was dry until the doggy door as it was about close, I didnt need another wave the entire day after that one.
Nice surprise this morning. Almost felt like January out there, but a bit smaller. Looks like we are in for a run of smaller swells, but at least something is out there. Just hope the winds hold off again until the next snow.
I heard the Tsunami sucked a lot of water out of the santa cruz harbor and reports that Boats have sunk docks ripped loose and the dredge sucked out to sea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
Any first had reports from over there?
Damn, I hope not! San Diego doesn't have much to report. Chest high surf right now and perfect weather, definite session in my near future. Hope the SC damage is minimal.Quote:
Originally Posted by ja_surf
Anyone here surf the East Coast NY/NJ area? Home on break right now, with way too many reports of good waves making me really wanna go. Even took a look and saw a couple of people out, but the water is EFFING cold. I'm thinking I would die without a 5/4 and a hood. (currently have a 3/2, gloves, boots, but nothing else.)
My buddy called me a few days ago saying he was on his way to the beach for some epicly cold pits. I hear it's been good out there.
As for the 3/2, you'll definitely be a human popsicle with shrinkage but you'll live. I surfed Rye, NH in late October once with only a 3/2 and no hood, gloves or boots. Air temp mid 30's and water was probably in the low-mid 40's, fkna cold!!!!
I did not get over to the harbor, but I did have friends camping at a remote beach up the coast last night, so when I did not hear from then, I drove up. Found one of them on the bluffs above Scotts. Sheriff had woke them up at 5AM.Quote:
Originally Posted by ja_surf
We watch the surf for a while. An otherwise good morning of overhead surf with the winds turning on around 9AM. As the tsunami surges came through, the reef would suck dry as 2-4 feet of sea level dropped. It looked like the tide had lowered in 5 minutes. Then a solid set would come through and by the fifth and smallest wave of the set, the entire beach would fill in with water.
I can imagine how this effect would wreak havoc in harbors and inlets.
Used to. A decade plus ago. When I first got into winter surf in Rockaway, I would wear my short john over my 3/2 for extra warmth. Do you have one of those?Quote:
Originally Posted by Microcosm
It is March, so it is warming up. Slowly. But it is so worth beating the crowds of summer if there is a good spring swell.
Choose wisely. Try days or locations that do not absolutely require a duck dive. I used to have days that I would catch one to the beach, hop off, run up, climb the jetty, and drop in - just so I would not have to duck dive a single wave. Have wool hat/gloves and hot water ready in the car or your pack. It is not that horrible. And buy a 6/4 next season. Toasty.
Ottime has the right suggestions. Getting flushed while duck diving would not be the best idea :wink:
I'm out the door for hopefully a good session in 3..2..1.....out! :fmicon:
Summer swell season is on. I only had about 30 minutes of free time yesterday with the new boy, so I drove down to the Lane to watch the surf (and some whales). It was a solid six foot on the better sets. A bit warbled, but I sure wished I had been able to paddle out. I bet today was even better. Help arrives late tomorrow, so I should be able to catch the tail end of this thing.
Still hoping for that new camera. The Lady says I deserve a father's day gift. I agree.
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Nice to see waves after the last few weeks of small stuff. But my longboard form has improved.
^^Nice. I think I'm in your first pic, about to drop. Today was definitely better, and bigger. First one I caught went from first peak all the way past the stairs. Forgot how fun south swells are.
I surfed Cottons yesterday afternoon , for about 3 hours. Really fun, about a foot overhead and clean. Some of them were a bit soft, but as the tide dropped the bigger lefts really started to line up. The water is still cool, its not spring suit time yet.
^^^ Damn. What swell direction? We had some 12 sec south dribbles and some south wind swell yesterday. Certainly not OH surf. Still, the hour I was able to long board on the point was fun, especially with the thin crowd. Finally getting to understand my log again.
Past few weeks have been fun up here. Fatherhood is good for my surfing. Have a window - get in. Been surfing all over, but the best days have been up in the Waddell zone. Little Banzai was lots of fun, even with the swell dropping.
Looks like we are going to get another round of NW and S showing up later tomorrow. Not too bad for late May and early June.
Some shots form a fun small day at the Slot on the 23rd. Another example of dying swell and no crowd.
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Yes, poor quality photos, but I liked the angle. Soon I will be getting that new camera and am super excited about the problem to be me more than the equipment.
Combination of some left-over south and some WNW, which filled in as the day went on. Saturday was down to waist, occasional chest high in Newport, with some long lulls. I did not have much hope for Sunday, so I slept in. Surfline was calling Newport 3-4+ on Sunday, but the wind seemed like it would get on it early. I waited until about 1, then went down to Trestles/Cottons, figuring the wnw would keep filling in over the course of the day. It did, and things got a bit better over the course of the afternoon. It ended up being fun, and much bigger than I thought it would be. Those are some of the best days, when you get something unexpected, and head high/slightly overhead. The last hour, from 4 to 5 was the best, with me and only 1 other guy sitting in front of one of the two houses on the bluff(I forget which one is Nixon's) and getting long, slightly overhead lefts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
My gills have dried up, I can count the times I've surfed in the past 5 months. Glad you guys are scoring the past few weeks
I went to Cotton's today. it was pretty sectiony. i suck
We had a pretty good day yestareday at Varazze, Italy. 3/4 ft with some offshore...just the 3 of us in the water!
Every day is going off in landlocked glenwood springs CO
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