Anyone have any edge tuning favorites? Or just buy the pieces individually?
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Anyone have any edge tuning favorites? Or just buy the pieces individually?
If you buy an edge tuning tool you will immediately be relegated to TGR gaper status. Because angles are just so darn complex there's no way anybody could ever design a tool to get it right.
I find this works great for keeping my small quiver in shape:
https://www.tools4boards.com/orb-8-w...edger-kit.html
That orb looks cool.
I like the sks tool https://www.tognar.com/fk-multi-edge-tuning-tool/
Comes with a file, you’ll also need a diamond stone or two that fits. Some places sell kits.
But honestly, get an 2-degree edge guide, a 1 degree beast style base guide, a clamp, a file, and a diamond stone or two and you are set. I also have a 3-degree edge guide for some skis but everything gets a 1-degree base.
Easy to use, can take any size file/stone, and you’ll never forget to adjust the damn tool and realize you’ve been hitting your base with a 2-degree bevel.
The sks is nice for in a travel bag or if you want to keep your tuning kit tiny, but the real guides don’t exactly take up space or require more skill. I guess it is also nice if you want to do something stupid like experiment with a 0.5/4.5 base/side bevel combo
The Q and P.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wi4N4duxwgk
If you intend to tune multiple pairs of skis per season and keep at it, buy the pieces separately like the pros do.Quote:
Originally Posted by mf12d0
I have 1, 2, and 3 degree side edge bevel guides with clamps (I like Sun Valley Ski Tools, most recreational tuners are fine with the all-aluminum one but some of mine have the stainless plate) and keep each clamped to their own Panzer file all the time. I also have a 0 degree clamp on a 10" mill bastard all the time for sharpening scrapers. I write "1," "2," and "3" on the guides in multiple places to make sure I grab the right one. The $.99 clamps at Home Depot seem to work as well as any of the others.
I have more grits, etc. but what I use most is the Panzers (to set the bevel), a 200 Diamond Stone (prefer Moonflex but there are other good ones) and a 400 Diamond Stone. Get 100mm lengths in all of them, not 70mm. I seldom use the 100 or 600 (actually the 100 diamond stone sits by the bench to smooth rock damage before the good files touch them). Be sure to keep the diamond stones clean and lubed, I use a toothbrush and 50/50 water/rubbing alcohol solution while working - if you do, they'll cut better and last a long time.
My base edge guide is Swix, and it's fine, but I seldom use it. (I have access to a nice Wintersteiger stone grinder if needed). For the rest, I mostly just use the 2 degree side edge guide on most skis a few times per winter, I use the 3 degree on race-type skis and in the middle of some groomer skis, and the 1 degree on skis over 115mm in the waist. Almost all maintenance tuning usually is done on the side edges, not the base.
Keep your files clean with a file card or brass brush.
To add, often forgotten is a sidewall removal option. A planer is best, but you can use a coarse file (panzer) at 6 to 7 degrees.
If sidewalls are getting in the way, I just plane them away with the side of a metal scraper held freehand on the edge (tilted a little bit towards the top of the ski)
Seems to work? Is that bad?
Interesting. As long as you are getting the sidewall material out of the way for a stone or diamond to cut the side edge accurately, then it sounds like you are good. Mark of Ski Visions advocated using the end of the base flattener steel bar to cut side walls. In a pinch I've freehanded with a panzer. You can tape shims to side edge guides to increase the angle. Multi-angle guides give you a more controlled option. Sand paper could work or clean up any cutting tool you decide to use on your skis.Quote:
Originally Posted by singlesline
I'm a gaper. I've always used this and been happy: https://www.slidewright.com/skivisio...uning-tool.phpQuote:
Originally Posted by yeahman
edited to use the mag-approved link.
This is my gaper setup. I did buy two of these tools so I do not need to move the files between base and side bevel. I rarely use the colored diamond files.
Whole shebang is garbage though and prevents me from unlocking my full skiing potential. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9b746f7787.jpg
Buy one of everything Terry has.
I have this tool also and it works well. Recommend.Quote:
Originally Posted by yeahman
When our son wen to college we bought him a Racewax kit. It was like $75 on sale in the late summer. That has worked out well - decent kit for a reasonable price. Good route to go.
I have an identical set up with two tools to speed up the process. The tools set was part of the swag that was provided when I was unwillingly inducted into the Shameful Society of Gapers. I have a coarse diamond file that has aluminum versus plastic substrate that I had to trim to fit the guide which is great for removing long burrs from whacking rocks. If only proper base repairs were so easy, but there is always JB Weld which lasts until the next patch of scree.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yeahman
JB Marine weld works great, I never use anything else anymore. Never once has it failed on me. Can't believe I used to pay to have core shots fixed.
Ha, I was using plain old Ace hardware JB Weld. Now I am about to up my game with JB Marine because of the tip from the wise man from Helena.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yeahman
Panzer to set bevel? Like the one with radial teeth that can take half an edge in one swoop? Or you just using a light touch?Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
Use a light touch, look to see that the surface of the edge is uniform (one color) to tell when you're done. It might take me 10-12 passes if I'm changing a 3 degree side edge bevel to 2 degrees. The machine also sometimes leaves a sharp transition near the tip which I like to smooth out, and I like to get rid of the rotary marks left by the spinning stone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lvovsky
One tip I've followed when using a panzer to reset a bevel is to run a Sharpie Pro (not regular) down the edge first.
Makes it readily apparently when you've pulled the black off and all that's left is shiny metal.
Great idea!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ørion
Wow, that's pretty cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by kootenayskier
PSA: use stones much more than files. I'm a big fan of a proper edge guide and an Arkansas pocket stone. The ceramic and that 8 in 1 is probably good too. If you're not racing, you don't want to be removing a lot of metal.
Still have the original Tools 4 Boards setup, hand rasp, bastard files, plus a $20ish swix edge tuner for when I’m in a hurry, and finally a ptex gun vs dripping sticks (the best upgrade I’ve ever made). I’m sure there are better options, but getting to know the nuances of the tools you have and how to properly lay in metalgrip with a ptex covering for core shots, etc. is where the real challenge lies.
Finally sprang for roto brushes. Had used them back when I was working at a shop in college, so not foreign to me at all. But fuck if I didn’t forget just how much better they are.
Got Red Creek brushes from Ski Racing Supplies in the UK. Even with not-cheap shipping it’s was still significantly less than I could find any brushes for here.
Why Pro not regular? (I have no idea how a Pro differs.)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ørion
Ultimately the "why" is just experience from trial and error.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
I tried with a regular sharpie at first and it just doesn't lay down ink on the polished metal edge as well nor does it adhere perfectly (acted like a dry erase marker where repeated applications just pushed the previous layers around).
The "Pro" version is designed to work in wet/oily/dusty conditions and just needs one pass with the chisel tip to make the edge nice and dark. Let it set for 30 seconds to dry out and let 'er rip.