https://www.si.com/more-sports/2020/...ines-surfboard
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That is really cool.
What I actually find REALLY remarkable is that the guy started surfing at 20 and was able to eventually surf Waimea. Most people who start that late don't ever get close to that level. Clearly I did something wrong, I started freshman year in college and the biggest waves I have surfed are probably around double overhead Cottons range.
Very cool story.
Thx
on the