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Ive got a pair of skis that look like swiss cheese from ~ 3.5 mounts. It's possible that they will need another mount and I'd prefer not to excavate eight holes per ski for heli coils. Will JB weld help me get around hole conflicts by allowing me to re-drill, or will it not hold a screw / fall out? Should I just plug and pray? Slice them up and serve with prosciutto and crackers?
thanks
If the holes still have enough integrity to hold a screw, use 2-part medium set marine epoxy (I prefer Loctite brand but they're all pretty much the same.) Mix some steel wool fibers into the epoxy mix and scoop liberally into the holes before screwing. Don't over torque. Fill the holes that are going to be unused first with golf tees and epoxy, trim flush.
If you're talking intentionally overlapping a hole, try not to. Do some sort of other hole-shift method by using the heelpiece adjustment or something. All you really need is a few mm clearance from the old hole, if it's plugged properly (golf tee/epoxy.)
JB weld should NEVER EVER be used on skis... ever!
Just curious, why not. Is it too inflexible compared to other epoxies? They advertise it as being suitable for tapping and threading. I use it as my standard glue for gluing other things besides wood.Quote:
Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs
With any potential hole overlap/conflict, or even with holes in relatively close proximity, I always use WOOD PLUGS glued in place. When allowed to dry, trimmed off, and then shaved flat with a sure-form blade, they're (IMO) just about as strong as the ski when new.
*Very occasionally, I have successfully had "overlapping" holes by doing the above, and inserting helicoils in the new holes.
I have nothing to add, but this thread definitely has good info as I need to remount some skis and I'm planning on doing it myself.
Instead of a ghetto ass repair using jb weld, use an epoxy that's actually fits the purpose.
http://www.slidewright.com/proddetai...=SVHME&cat=139
Then again, if you really need to overlap holes (might happen with P18's) you're probably better off excavating and laying in coils or plugs. Just be careful about bit placement when you're drilling offset to the original hole.
I'm also not a fan of steel wool, but I know plenty of people swear by it.
I would definitely re-use the old holes if possible. Stay away from epoxy. Glue alone does not equal a safe mount.
+1 for steel wool
+1 for waterproof ski glue
Also consider re-tapping the holes (be sure to follow the old tap) before you insert the screws. Or, you know, pay a quality shop tech to do it for you.
i realize epoxy is the best bet once i have a hole tapped and ready, just curious if jb weld had the same strength/tapped well enough to hold a screw and add to the ski's integrity. it sounds like wood plug + epoxy might be the ticket.Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltron
I get that straight JB weld might not be the best for offset holes. It is an epoxy product though, and one that is capable of being machined and threaded, which standard epoxies are not advertised for. If a wooden plug was glued in with JB weld, can anyone tell me why it would not be as strong or stronger than the same repair with conventional two part epoxy? I am more interested in facts and personal experience than opinions. If you want an adhesive capable of holding threads, why use a standard epoxy over JB weld
JB Weld isn't just an epoxy, it is an epoxy+ a filler. If you pound in a wood plug with JB, you've got a lot of that non-structural filler and only a little epoxy. If you use some high quality slow set 2-part epoxy, you have wood core, a little epoxy and a wood plug all solidly together.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZGjethro
To the OP, have you considered making a mounting plate that covers the existing holes, screws into the ski in a new location (away from existing holes) and allows you to mount your bindings?
Thanks for the good reply. I think the filler is a steel powder. Sometimes a filler adds strength, like rebar in concrete. Since the wooden plug would be surrounded by a thin layer of JB weld, wouldn't the threads of the new screw be engaging in a stronger matrix than wood and standard epoxy? This is all a theoretical debate anyway until empirical data is presented. Either epoxy has to be better than a waterproof wood glue though.Quote:
Originally Posted by krp8128
I think you could achieve some structural integrity with various epoxies/fillers, but not enough to serve as a mount point.
I agree. My use of epoxy in skis is usually as a water sealer and screw holder in new mounts. For some reason, I seem to need it the most with my Fritschi bindings. It seems like I am always tightening them to reduce slop as the screws back out.Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiMan
You could probably use JB Weld to hold golf tees in binding holes, and you can definitely use it for ghetto repairs to core shots (I've done this), but you can't use it to hold delams together. You're correct: it's too inflexible, and your repair will simply delaminate again.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZGjethro
What skis are these? Metal burl?
Just fill the old holes properly, try to drill new holes away from the old ones, Look/Rossi P18 heel ain't the best choice (only 4 screws in a tight spread), and pray if there are old holes behind your new heel holes (backseat landing might snap ski at those old holes behind the heel), so avoid double stagers in no-fall zones.
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If you really like the ski and want to keep skiing it, these are good situations to look at a plate.
http://www.kneissl.co.nz/Air%20soft%20plate.jpg
Also, as far as a very suitable epoxy for various ski repair uses I keep trying to recommend aquamend...but nobody seems to listen or try it. I think the fact that it's designed to work in wet environments and be flexible enough to mend fiberglass boats and surfboards speaks for itself. I've had very good luck with that product. It's also cheap and very easy to work with. It's also sold as Billy Mays Mighty Putty, which is even more awesome.
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/upl.../billymays.jpg
It is useful and versatile stuff. The fact it is a malleable putty and machinable and paintable is great for a lot of uses. I rebuilt a ski tip once and it was perfect for the job. But for filling holes, seems like liquid glues or epoxies as a less viscous medium would fill small holes better and their nooks and crannies to provide a more reliable seal. As a general, useful trick, using a hot air gun to drive liquids into small holes and repairs, do you see this having any place when using Aquamend?Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiMan
With that many holes already in the skis, I'd do (in order of preference)
- remount using existing holes -- something must be close enough for your BSL, right?
- mount a race/riser plate like Yetiman suggested. Salomon, Look, Vist, and I'm sure many others have these.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZGjethro
I used JB to glue in some golf tees mostly because I want to try JB weld cuz I always have some 2 part kicking around
I would bet JB OR slow set are going to be very similar in strength BUT I found 2 part slow set was just easier to work into old screw holes cuz it was more liquid than JB which is putty like so you need to force it into holes whereas a liquid will flow a bit easier
the putty like consistancey might be great for filling a bigger hole like a big core shot but for screw holes I preferred using 2 part slowset which I mix with chopped strands of fibre glass cloth (real cloth ... not house insulation )
JB weld comes in a few different forms. I was talking about the two part epoxy type. It is a liquid only a bit more viscous than regular epoxy. The putty JB weld is indispensable in a dirt bike repair kit. I have repaired several holed clutch covers in the field with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I like the idea of using fiberglass as a filler over steel wool.
I didnt realize JB weld came in other than a putty form, what I found localy was the putty and I find a liquid is just easier to work with IMO for this specific appQuote:
Originally Posted by ZGjethro
yeah I chop the unraveled strands of fibreglass cloth into 1/2 inch pieces ,I figure its better than steel wool or wood or house insulation and it works very well for resurrecting spun binding screw holes ... I got 4 screw tele mounts I fixed 5 yrs ago that have held up fine
I used liquid aluminium to fix a hole in a side casing back in the day