IPOS: 49 Degrees North
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There's an incorrect notion in Washington that the rest of the state is flat once you exit the Cascades. That shortsighted thought completely dismisses the Northeastern corner of the state, which is home to 1.1 million acres of forest, the Kettle River, the upper reach of the Columbia River, the Selkirk mountain range, and all kinds of wildlife from grizzly bears to bald eagles to the last remaining herd of caribou in the US. Unbeknownst to many, there's a deep-rooted history of skiing in these parts as well. The Chewelah Peak Ski Club was founded in 1935, which spurred winter recreation on the iconic Chewelah Mountain—49 Degrees North's predecessor. While the nearby town was originally established as a boomtown for mining in 1879 for those eager to strike rich with gold and silver, some joked that the Chewelah Peak held troves of "white gold" due to its potential for skiing.
Driving up to the resort's parking lot, it was easy to see why this mountain stuck out to those original ski pioneers. Chewelah Mountain's summit sits at 5,774 feet and has primarily north-facing slopes. It rises like a grand pyramid, and with a base elevation at 3,923 feet, skiers and riders have a vertical drop of 1,851 feet at their disposal. Plus, the mountains are tucked too far east to get a maritime snowpack, meaning that "Cascade Concrete" (it's an acquired taste) is harder to find in these parts. The original ski area was founded and built completely by volunteer labor.
49 Degrees North has a very unique intersection of cultures. | Katie Lozancich photo.
Legend has it that Cyrille (Cy) LaVigne brought the first pair of skis to the town, and energized the community to take part in this brand new sport. It didn't take much convincing, and most folks soon owned a pair of long wooden skis. You had to really earn your turns during those days. The only way up the mountain was to hike until a rope tow was installed in 1939. The town had a popular saying "if it's snowing, I'm going", and those first skiers were tenacious. Getting your car stuck along the way to the mountain was a rite of passage considering that no one had a four-wheel-drive car during that time.
In 1951, those big dreamers celebrated a major milestone for the resort: its first-ever chair lift. Instead of trudging through snow or being pulled along on the rope tow, they finally had the luxury of sitting back and enjoying the ride to the summit. In the years that followed the resort continued to grow and in 1972 it became the iconic 49 Degrees North Ski Area. These days the mountain encompasses 2300 skiable acres, three peaks, two basins, and plenty of adventure to be found in its iconic glades.
Perfectly spaced trees? Check. | Katie Lozancich photo.
While much has changed since that original rope tow was set up on the mountain, the spirit of those pioneers still lives on in the many employees and diehard locals we met during our visit here. We particularly noticed it with Bobby Johnson, who's been with the resort for the last 25 years. He works as a busser and makes sure the lodge stays nice and tidy for the guests—that is when he's not busy racing. Bobby races Slalom with the Riverside Racers in Washington State. He goes to the Washington State Special Olympics every year and won gold in Slalom in 2018, as well as silver and bronze in years past. Proudly, he showed me his medals and race skis. The second we ask Johnson about skiing he whisks us outside and starts talking about the mountain. His passion for this place is palpable and points out his favorite runs. Anyone who's spent extended time at 49 Degrees North knows "Bobby" and his love for this mountain. "We're very proud of his accomplishments and love that he loves 49 so much. This mountain is one of his favorite places to be and our staff is so happy to support him and create a space for him here," explains Emily, the resort's marketing manager.
The following morning we connect with another dedicated employee known as Darcy Body, who's the head of grooming. Body is one of the many women at the helm of this resort, whose management staff comprises 50/50 men and women—a hard ratio to find in the ski industry. We catch Body in the last few hours of her shift. Snow wasn't in the forecast for yesterday evening, but Mother Nature decided to surprise us with four inches of the good stuff anyways. By the time her snowcat pulls around to pick up our cinematographer Dustin, the sky is still pitch black with the sunrise on its way. In the bright lights of the lodge, we can see fat flakes coming down from the sky coating the nearby slope in a generous layer of new snow. Body started grooming at around 10 o'clock the day before and was working through the night. She jokes with us that the resort is a giant Etch-a-Sketch. "You set your lines and then everyone is going to wipe it away and shake it up. Our job is to try again the next night, no harm no foul," she laughs. The work asks for long hours, but it comes with its perks. She finishes her grooming at 8:30, perfect timing for when the resort opens every morning.
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The fresh snow was a nice touch, but getting to share it with the folks that make 49 Degrees North special? That's what we're going to remember at the end of the day. | Katie Lozancich photo.
She has just enough time to get her board and boots and reconnect with us for the first chair. It's a sleeper powder day, and the lift line is practically empty. We hitch a ride up the main two-seater and creep up the mountain. There's a thick fog covering most of the resort, which glows in a gold hue from the rising sun. At the summit, we reconvene near one of her favorite glades. Joining us are a few other employees that luckily don't have to be on the clock just yet, and we descend into the sleeping giants of Douglas Fir, White Pines, and Western Hemlocks. I've never been a huge fan of tree skiing, but it's probably because I've never skied trees like these. The lines are perfectly spaced like Parisian boulevards, with uninterrupted sightlines the entire way down the slope. The trees are so tall that their branches are far out of reach, so there's nothing thwack you as you weave down the slope. We slash through the fresh snow with the biggest smiles on our faces. There are all kinds of little logs and rollers to jump off, which only induces more cheers from the group.
It felt Mother Nature knew this was our last day of filming, and treated us with a proper going-away present. The fresh snow was a nice touch, but getting to share it with the folks that make 49 Degrees North special? That's what we're going to remember at the end of the day.
Thank you to all the resorts, staff, and diehard locals that gave us a glimpse into what the soul of the sport is all about. I'd try to explain to you, but better yet, just visit one of these resorts to experience it firsthand.
