There’s a reason I’ve never ‘grammed myself surfing; for me, the waves are more like ripples, my “bikini body” is simply a body in a bikini, and I’m usually in the squat position (and not the one you’re supposed to be in).
For this reason, slab hunting videos like this one in West Oz charge me up. On one hand, I’m like, “Nope, I’m good, thanks,” and on the other, I’m all, “Bring it on, death pits.” Mick Corbett, Jarryd Foster, and Mark Mathews show us just how to take on the ocean’s heavy waves, or burly beasts, as they might more aptly be named.
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Not to get all Debbie Downer, but it must be said that out there on that merciless water, misstepping just a fragment could lead to the grave or at least the hospital. These surfers might seem off their rockers, but, more than that, they’re masters of the jaws of hell.