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  #1  
Old 07-24-2007, 08:28 AM
LaZapatilla LaZapatilla is offline
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TR: Tierra del Fuego (Cerro Castor and Glaciar Martial) July 2007

We flew uneventfully from Milan and arrived Buenos Aires at 6:30 a.m. The taxi driver gave us a free tour of the city on our way to the other airport, Aeroparque Newberry. Checked in our bags and headed back to town to kill 6 hours before our continuing flight to Ushuaia. Buenos Aires is definitely a city to spend some time in if you have a few days to spare. We didn’t, so we made sure to at least get a good steak for lunch and then headed back to the airport.


A bridge by Calatrava in Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires



After a 3 ½ hour flight we made it to Ushuaia. We checked into our Hostería, had dinner and crashed. No need to wake up early as the lifts didn’t start at Cerro Castor until 10 a.m. (still pretty dark at 9 a.m.) but the shuttle to the mountain did take 45 minutes or so.

Cerro Castor isn’t that big so it doesn’t take too long to explore all the possibilities and the immediate slackcountry. The main area didn’t really get any sun all day but it was nice to ski the eastern slopes in the morning and the western part in the afternoon to stay warm (plus ski the nicest parts of the mountain that nobody else was touching). Snow wasn’t great that day (windblown, variable hardpack) and the coverage was a bit thin but it was July and we were skiing.

A few photos of the surrounding mountains from Cerro Castor.




Argentina lost to Brasil in the Copa America this day




Skiing in C. Castor








The next day, we had hoped to meet up with Klar (http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=89919) but learned that she was taking the 5:30 a.m. bus trip north. We decided to head up to Glaciar Martial to look for her boot tracks. We also wanted to meet Claudio per Splat’s recommendation and to see the Refugio where Klar had been living for a few nights.

Top of the aerosilla at Glaciar Martial looking down on Beagle Channel



The Refugio was closed so we headed up towards the glacier. We took a right turn and headed up Cañadon Negro.



Every direction you looked there were possibilities for good lines. We chose the main route and headed up to the col. Unfortunately, we had left our ski crampons at home so had to boot it up when it got too steep. The snow was pretty firm as it had been windy during the previous weeks. The last pitch was a pain and required 4-5 good kicks to get a solid boot hole to be able to continue. By the time we made it to the top, it had quickly turned to near white-out conditions. After a 20 minute descent, we were back to the Refugio and headed back to town. It kept snowing for the rest of the afternoon and evening.

The next day, we headed back to Cerro Castor to enjoy the fresh snow. Not much (5-8 inches max) but fun. And it was bluebird . We immediately headed towards the eastern facing slackcountry to enjoy the sun and to beat the crowds (only 3 other tracks over there all day).















Backside of Cerro Castor



to be continued...

Last edited by LaZapatilla; 08-06-2008 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:29 AM
LaZapatilla LaZapatilla is offline
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After lunch, we headed to the western facing slopes for more sun and even better snow and lines. To get there it's a short hike around this peak









The reason why I don't show up in most of these pictures is because of Mr. Zapatilla's photo skills. Here is an example...




The next day, we took a day to do some tourist stuff. We had a taxi drop us off at sunrise in Tierra del Fuego National Park. We arranged for him to pick us up in 4 hours a few miles up the road. Nice, easy hike through the empty park.



End of the road in South America



Sunrise a little before 10am



Conejo



Icy road



Evidence of Castores (Beavers)





¿QUE?


Patagonian Woodpecker



In the afternoon, we took a boat tour out into Beagle Channel

Ushuaia







Cormoranes. Ushuaia in the background with Glaciar Martial above town




The next day, it was back to Glaciar Martial. We skinned up the bowl immediately to the west of the Refugio and weren’t too excited about the snow quality so headed up to the main glacier. The snow was much improved over our previous day in the area and only had to boot up a couple of pitches





Surrounding scenery





Booting up




After skiing, we made our way back to the Refugio and met Claudio and Roberto. Claudio spotted Mr. Zapatilla’s BROs and asked if we knew Splat. We also talked about “la chica alemana que durmió en el refugio”. They were quite impressed with Klar.



You don't need to bring your own skis to the refugio; they have plenty to borrow




That night, we ate Cordero Fueguino (fire-roasted lamb). Tasty.



On our last day, we headed up to the Glaciar again for a couple more laps before flying home.

If you want to stay in a nice place, stay here http://www.tierradeleyendas.com.ar. The owners are cool and Sebas is an excellent chef. The Hostería isn’t in town but it’s only a 10 peso taxi ride away (a bit more than 3 USD).



Hot chocolate with cake every afternoon



Views from the hosteria





Monte Olivia



We didn’t have much time but we fully enjoyed what we had. One could easily spend several weeks here with unlimited skiing options. Thanks to everyone with recommendations from the previous thread: http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=89309

Last edited by LaZapatilla; 07-24-2007 at 09:37 AM.
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  #3  
Old 07-24-2007, 08:44 AM
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Very pretty - looking forward to Pt. 2!
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:52 AM
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It looks the the southern latitude really gives you guys some beautiful light. Great photos! Looking forward to part II.
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:13 AM
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Wow that looks awesome!
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  #6  
Old 07-24-2007, 11:51 AM
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Wow, amazing. I hope I can get work done this next 3 weeks before I go. Although I doubt I can do it, I do have to ask now. Is there anyway to get from Bariloche to Ushuaia?
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Old 07-24-2007, 12:44 PM
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It looks like Bacon is fighting back against consumption and has starting biting at the ankles of humans.

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Old 07-24-2007, 12:47 PM
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Super stoke!

What kind of camera you using?

...the pics look great!
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  #9  
Old 07-24-2007, 01:46 PM
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Dios Mio!
Hay mucho stoke en Argentina

Have a bottle of Latitude 33 Malbec for us while you enjoy the good country.

Great TR. I see lots of possibilities...
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  #10  
Old 07-24-2007, 01:59 PM
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great pictures! looks like you had fun such a cool place. sorry i missed you.



i bootpacked up the obvious one on the right and ended up skiing down something similar on the other side because the snow wasn't quite so meh on there. looks much improved in that picture.

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Surrounding scenery

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Old 07-24-2007, 02:13 PM
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any avy beta from down under? Seems quite maritime and stable from the TRs.
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Old 07-24-2007, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stupendous man View Post
any avy beta from down under? Seems quite maritime and stable from the TRs.
¿Perhaps Split It can chime in?
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:17 PM
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Thanks for the Ushuia stoke It's so great to see two topnotch TRs from the End of the World back-to-back.
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by enlosandes View Post
¿Perhaps Split It can chime in?
When we were there it hadn't snowed in weeks, and everything was a solid sheet of ice unless it got enough sun to corn up. So I'm not sure what happens in a storm cycle.
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Old 07-25-2007, 12:45 AM
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Excellent TR! You even got the point just right...
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  #16  
Old 07-25-2007, 03:13 AM
LaZapatilla LaZapatilla is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razorslug View Post
Wow, amazing. I hope I can get work done this next 3 weeks before I go. Although I doubt I can do it, I do have to ask now. Is there anyway to get from Bariloche to Ushuaia?
You could fly but I'm not sure if there is a direct flight. You may have to go via Buenos Aires (www.aerolineas.com).
There is a bus and I think it takes a day or two... Klar took it on the way back North; maybe she can tell you how that was?

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Originally Posted by skier666 View Post
What kind of camera you using?

...the pics look great!
D70s with a Nikon 70-200 f2.8 for most of the pictures. I'm glad you liked the pictures but I shouldn't get much credit for them... the light is just amazing down there throughout the day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by klar View Post
i bootpacked up the obvious one on the right and ended up skiing down something similar on the other side because the snow wasn't quite so meh on there. looks much improved in that picture.
wow, that's quite an achievement! How long did it take you to climb that face?

Quote:
Originally Posted by stupendous man View Post
any avy beta from down under? Seems quite maritime and stable from the TRs
It was stable while we were there but we have no idea how it would be after a serious storm. If you are going down there and want more information, there is a guide in Ushuaia that everyone kept telling us about. His name is Juan Pablo Terrado at http://www.gotama-expediciones.com/es/presentacion.html. We didn't meet him but I think he would be the guy to talk to.
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Old 07-26-2007, 12:16 AM
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Excellent.

Fabulous pics.

Thanks.
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Old 07-26-2007, 07:41 AM
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Gorgeous. appreciate the food shots as well!
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Old 07-26-2007, 08:30 AM
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Bellisimo! Buenisimas fotos. Super lindo ... barbaro.

Malbec + Steak in Buenos Aires = A+
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:04 AM
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Great Tr!
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