Jack Tour 11.05.2007

[Lani]

I can't find any partners for my "maniac adventures" lately. But I won't let that stop me.

Good weather and corn have just arrived in Washington. Now is the time for any south-facing sickness. The South Face of Jack Mountain has 4k+ of sustained steeps and total local relief over 7k down Crater Creek. There's no way the cliffbands will survive much sun. It begs immediate inspection.

No chance for a nap. Time to go.

8:19 PM
Elevation: negligible
Arlington, Washington, leaving I5 to head for North Cascades Hwy via Darrington and Rockport.
"Four-shot Americano, please. Mind if I take your picture?"

Too bad it's too dark to see why they call it "Hot Spot."

9:49 PM
Elevation: 510'
Newhalem, Washington, stopping for the facilities since the coffee worked.

"Go in Peace."

10:41 PM
Elevation: 2200'
Canyon Creek Trailhead

A friend of the Devil is a friend of mine.

3:40 AM
Elevation: 7200'
High on Crater Mountain near the top of Jerry Glacier, now it's time for some early morning corn.


4:47 AM
Elevation: 6700'
I just climbed a funky-ass cornice above Jerry Lakes. Jack looks big and scary in the day's first light. After removing the crampons, it's time to ski again.


6:20 AM
Elevation: 7000'
Finally, a look at The Objective.

I'm still hoping to find a hidden gully penetrating the cliffs.

7:59 AM
Elevation: 8300'
The gullies look like shit and the runnels are horrendous. I climb around the arete on climber's left. Perched above huge cliffs, a gully with a four-foot-deep runnel beckons. I climb into the gully to see how it looks above. It's a dead end into cliffs. Lots of spindrift coming down and the sun is just starting to hit the face. Time to go home.

I didn't take a picture at my highest point because the spindrift really sucked.


Crater Mountain from high on the South Face of Jack Mountain. That mellow snow slope in the foreground is the 8,200' top of the snowfield on the topo maps.


Here's another gully that doesn't look good.


This was the originally intended gully. Runnel love!

11:50 AM
Elevation:6700'
I head up the ridge toward Crater Mountain to a nice vantage point. Here is a mugshot.

The intended route and the red dot is my high point. Maybe in the winter? It's seven miles farther when they gate North Cascades Highway. It's skiable, but not with the styles and techniques I want to employ today.

The cornice I surmounted before dawn looks and feels like an isothermal death trap. I head farther up the ridge, but can't find a good entrance. Finally, I ski all the way down the ridge and descend a south-facing slope sans cornice to Jerry Lakes.

12:15 PM
Elevation: 5900'
Jerry Lakes: This leaves me a lot more distance to skin to the Jerry Glacier.

Crater Mountain from above Jerry Lakes

1:59 PM
Elevation: 6600'
My snail's pace progress continues. I stop to enjoy the last full views of Jack.


3:20 PM
Elevation: 7200'
The sticky snow absolutely murders my legs while skinning up the Jerry Glacier. This is my only time to use the skins today. All the other snow was nicely consolidated, while still beautifully corn-gripped, for me to just boot it.

Another 3k to ski...


6:00 PM
Elevation: 2200'
Back at the trailhead. Do you know how good this beer tastes?

[goldenboy]

That looks like a fun day/night. Too bad the conditions didn't cooperate, but I'm sure it was good for recon, not to mention just being out there

[LeeLau]

damn lani. I'm having the same problem. Too many ski partners who are riding their bikes. You've inspired me to just go out and try it solo ..

[72Twenty]

Heh - I live at 7200' and it was almost 80 degrees today.

[Zeedashbo]

i guess i need to step up to the plate more often, there's no need to leave a good lani lonely.

still, it looks better (but waayyyy freaking longer) than the bushwacking i did today. my body needs a rest.

[CascadeFreeheeler]

Way to give it a shot. Skiing solo is fun!

[Squirrel99]

i'm long overdue stepping up to the plate. we'll see what the weather does next weekend.

[skier666]

Nice coffee shop steeze....

and for the solid effort

[Lani]

I intended to spend the whole weekend recovering. Then I had an e-mail on Saturday from my friend Christophe, "Would you like to ski something Sunday?"

I shouldn't. I gotta chill. But here's a partner, so I called him, "Christophe, have you ever been to Mt Rainier?"

Well, he hadn't. So we had to ski Rainier yesterday.




Photoz of Christophe on Fuhrer Thumb and Wilson Glacier by Lani

[HikeforTurns]

Very cool. Id love to do the finger as a ski descent some day. Did you guys summit? How is the coverage up there? what was your times?

[Mofro261]

Those Ranier shots are looking good lani.

[PeachesN'Cream]

dear sweet jeebus christopher walken...

and i was feeling pretty "good" about making my first 4K walk/alder whack with zbo and friends on saturday. but after seeing this radness

very nice days (and a full day at that) work!

[Lani]

Very cool. Id love to do the finger as a ski descent some day. Did you guys summit? How is the coverage up there? what was your times?

The Finger is in good condition. We skied from Point Success. Coverage is quite good, but not great. We left the car from Paradise at 5:45 am and returned at 4:40 pm.

I had another good day on The Mountain yesterday. Maybe I'll post some pictures later. I should probably do some work now.

[Squirrel99]

yeah, that looks terrible




good shit- I need to ski something fun this weekend.