TR:Texas Tech Vertical Plains Climbing Competition

[doublediamond223]

This was my first comp, and it was a blast. I got 2nd in the JONG division, basically meaning flashes of hard 9s and low 10s, or at least that's how it worked out. The guy who won the division is a friend of mine, and he's usually a 5.12 climber, but he injured his hand and purposefully sandbagged my division. Whatever, second is good for the first comp.

I wore my FKNA shirt to help find brice618, and I got asked for change for the first time . Skills/Belay check:


Here's my friend Eric flashing a V5 as his first route. He got 2nd in the advanced division (5.12 and up). I tried to send the red problem visible here in 10 seconds at the end of the competition, during the countdown, as I didn't realize it was worth so much and was only a V2ish deal. I fell on the dyno to the last hold, w/e.


Here's me at the crux of my favorite route of the day. (5.10b/c) I hate underclings, but managed to get past it with a slight kneebar.


Past the crux, the rest wasn't bad. The crack-only part at the top was interesting though. I flashed it.


The toast of victory. Everyone in our group placed in their division. We got invited to the afterparty, but had to get on the road. Too bad, I was ready to put my beer mug trophy to good use.


Eric and Brian, the 2 5.13 climbers. I can't even fathom doing some of the stuff that they flashed.


Wide shot of about half of the wall


Brice618 on a black 8+ that I flashed. The green tape route close to him with the lettering was a nasty fucktard of a route, as although most of it is about a 9+, and the points reflect this, there is a strange crossing move that I would rate as a 10c at the crux. I fell off on the hold just out of the top of the frame, as did all of my friends who tried it.


Warming up on an easy 8, first time using my new anasazis. They hurt like hell, but were a big improvement over my old shoes.



I flashed the pink 10aish thing here, although my forearms were killing me on the little yellow hold right above brice's left hand here


No TR is complete without the


I can't wait for the next comp, it was a blast.

[smmokan]

You should climb in shorts next time. Jeans?

[smmokan]

Cool stuff though... I climbed like hell in college and the year after. Then I strangely gave it up when I gained 25 lbs and got fat.

[phUnk]

You should climb in shorts next time. Jeans?

I climb with long-pants inside a lot of the time, too. That wall is abrasive enough to skin you pretty well the first time you rub your knee against it, and it'll make you see god if you skin the same exact spot against it a second time. If you get too hot, you can just take off your shirt.

Nice work double-d.

[Tuckerman]

You should climb in shorts next time. Jeans?

Yeah jeans are for skiing. Nice work.

[doublediamond223]

I climb with long-pants inside a lot of the time, too. That wall is abrasive enough to skin you pretty well the first time you rub your knee against it, and it'll make you see god if you skin the same exact spot against it a second time. If you get too hot, you can just take off your shirt.

Yup, true. I've skinned my knee many times while climbing in shorts, especially on lead falls. Also, I could not have kneebarred my way out of that crux if I was wearing shorts. You'll notice that pretty much everyone in the pictures in wearing pants, including the guy who won advanced. Keep in mind that it was 27 degrees outside on the competition day.

[smmokan]

I'm just giving you shit... way to get after it bud.

[GBB]

DD where was this at?

[Kevo]

Where do you live DD?

[Kevo]

Oh and come to Boulder sometime this summer and I'll get you plugged into the scene here. I think we might have a little more to climb around here than is available in Texas.

[doublediamond223]

DD where was this at?

Are you serious? The title is "TEXAS TECH Vertical Plains Climbing Comp."

Texas Tech, in Lubbock. AKA the middle of nowhere, flattest place I've ever seen. Nice enough campus though.

Where do you live DD?

Oh and come to Boulder sometime this summer and I'll get you plugged into the scene here. I think we might have a little more to climb around here than is available in Texas.

I live in Houston and go to Baylor. (I lived in Boston until a year ago, so I can ski ) I'd love to do that mang, it would be very cool. Do you go to CU boulder or something?

[Hutch]

I lived in Boston until a year ago, so I can ski

quoted for comedy

[Kevo]

Do you go to CU boulder or something?

Yes indeed. PM me sometime if you and your friends are thinking about doing a trip. I'm in and out for weeks at a time during the summer leading trips, but between my roommates and friends and I, I'm sure we could give you a place to stay/show you some climbing in exchange for beer

[sfotex]

I live in Houston and go to Baylor.

So you commute to Waco from Houston?

I hope to hell you're hitting the shit out of roger's park, lake belton, miller springs, etc.

[GBB]

I'm an idiot and obviously failed reading comprehension miserably. My bad.

[doublediamond223]

Yes indeed. PM me sometime if you and your friends are thinking about doing a trip. I'm in and out for weeks at a time during the summer leading trips, but between my roommates and friends and I, I'm sure we could give you a place to stay/show you some climbing in exchange for beer

I will do that, thanks for the offer. I have to work for a substantial portion of the summer to pay for my car, but that would be one hell of an escape. I can certainly help with the beer.

So you commute to Waco from Houston?

I hope to hell you're hitting the shit out of roger's park, lake belton, miller springs, etc.

I live with my Dad in Houston when I'm not at school. I live on-campus at Baylor. (It's a 3-hour drive, not commutable)

I've never heard of those places, but I've gotten some people together to session Reimer's and Enchanted Rock on a semi-regular basis. (TRs to come)

Since you mentioned a lake, we have a lake house on Lake Livingston, and we screw around on jetskis etc there. I'm trying to get better at waterskiing, as slalom looks fun, but is totally counter-intuitive from an alpine point of view. I got up on one ski this summer and was able to stay up for a while, no turns yet though. Me=JONG as usual.

[sfotex]

I've never heard of those places, but I've gotten some people together to session Reimer's and Enchanted Rock on a semi-regular basis. (TRs to come)

You're driving past the goods on the way to Reimers...

from: http://www.bloodyflapper.com/areas/areas.php?area_id=1

Roger's Park

description: An hour north of Austin, it's got about 100 to 150 problems. and the stone is bulletproof. in the not too distant past it was considered by many to be notoriously difficult, but many of the best problems there are v0 to v3. also there have been a lot of new lines that have gone up recently in the lower range. Most of the time yours will be the only posse in the entire park, other times, you will run into the entire city of austin. if you go, bring a crash pad and a spotter, many of these puppys are highball, and the crux is always at the top.

directions: from austin, travel north on I-35 into Belton. exit 6th ave., and turn left. that will dead end into main street. turn right. make a left on 439 going towards the dam. drive down until you get to 2271. make a right there and cross the dam. go through two intersections and turn right on rogers park rd.. take your first left on mourning dove and park at the gate. There are several way to access the climbing. The guide on this site starts as far left as possible. so a climber would need to take the trail starting on the right side of the gate that travels down and to your left.

Morgan's point: http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/N...int/Main_Wall/