Naxo NX21 Review!

[mtbakerskier]

I just got a pair of the new Naxo NX21's today. After the problems that I have had about the last two versions, I was pleasently suprised to see the changes made to the new bindings. Many of you will remeber the problems that I experienced with voids in the plastic of the previous versions. However after inspecting the new model it is safe to say that this problems should be remidied.

I'll let you do your own research on the basic differences between the NX21 and the standard Naxo's but the following is a review of the changes to there basic design based upon my inspection of them.

1. The toe piece arms are way befier than before.
2. Metal spring housing covers.
3. The metal rails that run under the boot are now closed, making them significantly less pron to twisting and flex induced by torsion on them.
4. Redesignd climbing bail, locks into place in a much more secure fasion, and apears to be more stout.
5. Ski mode lock mechanism took a minute to figure out, but it apears that it will defintly prevent the binding from accidentaly going into lock mode. This is nice added cofidence, however it will take a bit longer to switch into touring mode.
6. The bolts used in the front mechanism are now easier to adjust with tools that I would normally cary in my backcountry kit. I.E. a leatherman, so if thy do become loose it is now possible to tighten them in the field.
7. The Heel release lever was redesigned!!!!!!!!!!!! This was the single bigest problem that I had with the other versions. But it apears to have been fixed!
I Since I don't have a pair of the old versions in front of me, I am kind of going by memory, but it looks like the improvements to the release lever will solve the problems that I encounter with voids in the old design. It appears to me that there is thicker and more consistent wall cross-sections. This will improveme the plastics flow path when the binding is molded, and should eliminate most voids, and problems with the plastics flow fronts providing the resin is adequately dried. In addition to decreasing the problems with voids that caused my old bindings to fail, this new design appears to be a heck of a lot sturdier.
8. I tried out both my Salomon course boots and the Garmont Adrenalins, both would step into the bindings just fine. The only thing I noticed with the Adrenalins is that at higher din values, the rubber sole compresses to much to over power the spring, preventing step in. However this isn't a huge deal, and most people probably wont notice it at all. EDIT: I talked with BCA today, and supposedly this is only a issue at warmer temps, since the rubber soles are softer, than they would be at normal skiing temps.

Overall I am very impresed with the cahnges to the Naxo's and for those of us that want a bomber AT setup, this apears to be it! I gota give BCA props for listening to its consumers and making sure the needed improvemnts to the produt that they carry was implemented. These guys really do have there shit together, and have done a great job of standing behind the product that they cary and making sure that those of us that had problems with the older versions where taken care of. There needs to be more companies like them.

P.S. this was a pair that was replaced do to problems with my last pair and is not product that was given to me. So this should hopefully be a unbiased intial review.

[splat]

Nice review, Grant - BUT YOU MISPIELEDED A WORD!

[Dromond]

Cool. I look forward to the Naxo vs. Fritschi reviews/battles with these improvements considered.

[skier666]

Nice....finally, I may now get an AT setup!

[StroupSkier]

Are the mounting points for the toepiece still close together when compared to the Freerides?

I was going to get a pair of Naxos last year, but when I was talking with the shop last year they steered me away from the Naxos because of this design flaw. I had mentioned about having problems with toepeices before and they said that was the #1 problem they were having with the Naxos.

I ended up going with the Freerides, which I proceeded to rip out of the skis twice

I will be waiting for someone to build an AT binding that is not made of plastic, and is basically a full Alpine binding that can unlock the heel. I really don't give a damn how much it weighs...

[PNWbrit]

Grant - what issues did you have with the Naxo 01 over the originals? I broke a couple of the originals but so far the 01 has been o.k. and I'd heard they'd significantly reduced the number of warranty returns to BCA.

[mtbakerskier]

Grant - what issues did you have with the Naxo 01 over the originals? I broke a couple of the originals but so far the 01 has been o.k. and I'd heard they'd significantly reduced the number of warranty returns to BCA.

The problems that I had with the 01 version was due to voids in the plastic heil cup. Wich where due to the inconsistant wall thicknesses, and converging flow fronts of the plastic when "wet" resing was injected. This is a problem that would have only be prevelent in the first few bindings since, the resin would than dry as the injection molding machinery procedded to heat up and dehumidfy the resin prior to injection. With the NX21 it apears that this has been fixed.

[mtbakerskier]

Are the mounting points for the toepiece still close together when compared to the Freerides?

I was going to get a pair of Naxos last year, but when I was talking with the shop last year they steered me away from the Naxos because of this design flaw. I had mentioned about having problems with toepeices before and they said that was the #1 problem they were having with the Naxos.

I ended up going with the Freerides, which I proceeded to rip out of the skis twice

I will be waiting for someone to build an AT binding that is not made of plastic, and is basically a full Alpine binding that can unlock the heel. I really don't give a damn how much it weighs...

Sounds to me like an incompetent idiot mounted your bindings (I.E. wrong size bit). I have never had a problem with any of my AT bindings pulling out of the ski, and most AT bindings have a screw pattern that is much tighter than an Alpine binidng. A tight hole pattern minimizes the bindings foot print, and helps to reduce the bindings effect on the ski's flex pattern. Why dont you just heli coil the the binidng screws? I do that with all of my high din alpin binders and havent had a screw pull out.

[PNWbrit]

Sounds to me like an incompetent idiot mounted your bindings (I.E. wrong size bit). I have never had a problem with any of my AT bindings pulling out of the ski, and most AT bindings have a screw pattern that is much tighter than an Alpine binidng. A tight hole pattern minimizes the bindings foot print, and helps to reduce the bindings effect on the ski's flex pattern. Why dont you just heli coil the the binidng screws? I do that with all of my high din alpin binders and havent had a screw pull out.

Sounds right unless you tore them out while skiining or had them do an insta-tele while in downhill mode.

Grant, hopefully I got a pair that came from a hot mold. My problems were all in the toe piece - cracking of plastic and smashing of the AFD.

[StroupSkier]

Sounds to me like an incompetent idiot mounted your bindings (I.E. wrong size bit). I have never had a problem with any of my AT bindings pulling out of the ski, and most AT bindings have a screw pattern that is much tighter than an Alpine binidng. A tight hole pattern minimizes the bindings foot print, and helps to reduce the bindings effect on the ski's flex pattern. Why dont you just heli coil the the binidng screws? I do that with all of my high din alpin binders and havent had a screw pull out.

I'm pretty dure they did not use any sort glue to hold the front screws in. When the binding came out, the screws looked clean. We remounted them once at BD and the came back out again, then had them heli coiled at DPH. They have survived since, but I have not jumped off anything either.

Both times the binding has come out were after jumps, but they were both small ones, 5 to 10 feet tops.

I've just never been a big fan of plastic in bindings, but decided that the benifits of not having to carry around the ATs was worth it.

Got them mounted in a shop in Breck - Alpine Mountaineering I think???

[bossass]

Shouldn't a PHOTOGRAPHER be required to include PHOTOS in a review? Just a thought.

[irul&ublo]

Hey Grant...now that you've actually stepped into the Naxos, are they mint?

[mtbakerskier]

Hey Grant...now that you've actually stepped into the Naxos, are they mint?

Bwhahahaaaa

There still in the box, so there Likenew

Just incase no-one else gets this inside joke, these aint for sell

[mtbakerskier]

Shouldn't a PHOTOGRAPHER be required to include PHOTOS in a review? Just a thought.

Yeah, I probally should have, but there is plenty of pics of them already on the net, that and I am lazy and dont want to blow any more film until it snows.

[mtbakerskier]

I'm pretty dure they did not use any sort glue to hold the front screws in. When the binding came out, the screws looked clean. We remounted them once at BD and the came back out again, then had them heli coiled at DPH. They have survived since, but I have not jumped off anything either.

Both times the binding has come out were after jumps, but they were both small ones, 5 to 10 feet tops.

I've just never been a big fan of plastic in bindings, but decided that the benifits of not having to carry around the ATs was worth it.

Got them mounted in a shop in Breck - Alpine Mountaineering I think???

Where they mounted into a foam core?

Ive done pullout tests on foam Vs. wood Vs. a new type of aerospace foam, and my results did show that while foam will retain the screws just as good as wood. They need to be properly preped to do so. I.E. use glue to prevent moisture from entering and degrading the foam. Also if a slightly too large of drill bit is used pull out is more likely. I prefer to mount all foam skis with a 3.6 dia bit instead of the standard 4.1

As far as plastic in the bindings is concered, it is possible to create a plastic binding that is stronger / lighter than metal if the proper types of plastic is used in the correct areas of the bindings, and if the bindings are well desinged from a load standpoint and from a processing stand point.

[BakerBoy]

Where they mounted into a foam core?

Ive done pullout tests on foam Vs. wood Vs. a new type of aerospace foam, and my results did show that while foam will retain the screws just as good as wood. They need to be properly preped to do so. I.E. use glue to prevent moisture from entering and degrading the foam. Also if a slightly too large of drill bit is used pull out is more likely. I prefer to mount all foam skis with a 3.6 dia bit instead of the standard 4.1

As far as plastic in the bindings is concered, it is possible to create a plastic binding that is stronger / lighter than metal if the proper types of plastic is used in the correct areas of the bindings, and if the bindings are well desinged from a load standpoint and from a processing stand point.

I've seen your "pullout tests" at Yeagers. They typically involve you drinking a few PBR's, slurring and cussing a bunch, and taking rental Elan skis and seeing how easy it is to rip out bindings with a sledgehammer...

[Dside11-11]

Touring bindings suck. God made Trekkers and Race Stock binders for a reason.

[Sphinx]

Touring bindings suck. God made Trekkers and Race Stock binders for a reason.

Indeed. That reason was to save the powder for the AT skiers.

I'm trying to imagine skinning up some of the volcanos on race stock gear. Like 7000 vertical foot days. Somehow I imagine it unpleasant.

[bossass]

Yeah, I probally should have, but there is plenty of pics of them already on the net, that and I am lazy and dont want to blow any more film until it snows.

Don't be afraid gunder. Digital will get you eventually. (at least a little point and shoot for dicking around)

[BakerBoy]

Don't be afraid gunder. Digital will get you eventually. (at least a little point and shoot for dicking around)

He doesn't even have a camera phone. He's so 2000.

[Lurch]

Touring bindings suck. God made Trekkers and Race Stock binders for a reason.

Yes, to keep you out of my powder

[fiddler]

I've seen your "pullout tests" at Yeagers. They typically involve you drinking a few PBR's, slurring and cussing a bunch, and taking rental Elan skis and seeing how easy it is to rip out bindings with a sledgehammer...

That sounds very scientific.

[BakerBoy]

That sounds very scientific.

Well, he left the guns in the case, so I guess it falls short of full redneck-scientific testing.

[ulty_guy]

hey grant, you had a chance to ski these yet?

[mtbakerskier]

Ive now skied them for 5 days, and am quite impressed with the improvements made to them. They havent broken yet, and I have had no issues with the durability of the binders. However the ski mode lock, does work well for what its designed to do, it is a bit of a pain in the ass to dissengadge with the tip of a pole but is doable with some practice and patience.

I would definatly recomend these now. My only major complaint is why cant some one make a burly low-profile AT binder. its definatly possible, and wouldnt be that difficult.