TR: The Elevator Shaft, Taylor Glacier 8.6.05

**iskibc** · 08-07-2005, 10:56 PM

TR: Elevator Shaft, Taylor Glacier 8.6.05
PowPig, iskibc

The steep elevator shaft-like wall of snow called Taylor Glacier is tucked away in the far reaches of Rocky Mountain National Park. The glacier is seen by many as there are several great vantage points throughout the park, but climbed by few. The 5.5 mile slog in past Loch Vale is full of large and small boulder scrambling, tight and steep maneuvers through dense brush, and of course an exciting and teeth clenching snow climb up 1,200’ of some of the steepest pitched snow in Colorado. Like Gerry Roach said in his book, “moderate my ass glacier”, this one is definitely up there for exposure. This classic class 3+ snow climb has a daunting pitch averaging 60 degrees for the last third of the climb. Later in the summer the top narrow section measures out in the high 60s and is no more than a ski length in width. Today was going to be a challenge. I couldn’t wait…..

Only 4 days out from my little mishap on the Ptarmigan chutes and I was ready to go……mentally. With my hip still bruised up and sore, I couldn’t stand sitting around the house any longer. I needed to get out. I met Powpig in Lyons just before dawn and we made our way up to the park. There was kind of an eerie vibe as we entered the park as the search was still on for Jeff Christensen, the missing ranger, and there were media vans and volunteer rescue all over. We arrived at the glacier gorge trailhead and started the slog in to Taylor. The trail up to Loch Vale is your typical RMNP trail: wide, well maintained, and heavily traveled. This trail is one of my favorites in the park as the views are amazing and the high alpine lakes are mesmerizing.

Making our way up to Sky Pond:

The first 3.5 or so miles only yields 1,000’ in elevation gain, so you can imagine what the final 2 mile push is like.

Powpig checking things out above the lake:

Once past Glass Lake the trail narrows and becomes difficult to follow.

Trout in Glass Lake:

Taylor Glacier lies in the back of a narrow and steep basin. The rock climbing opportunities are endless back here.

Just above Sky Pond we reached snow and started our climb towards the couloir.

There are a few other ski options off the glacier which we could not see from down below. Every route off this wall of snow is steep and narrow. There is no easy way down. We traded out our sneakers and shorts and donned our ice axes and crampons.

The snow down low was heavily sun cupped, but got much better as we climbed higher. A large runnel was formed along the climber’s left side of the lower part of the couloir, but nothing that would make the skiing difficult.

Just below the narrows. Things beginning to get steep:

**iskibc** · 08-07-2005, 10:57 PM

We made our way up the couloir in just a little over an hour. As we approached the narrow section near the top I began thinking how much of a rush skiing this was gonna be.

I also began to wonder what I was thinking when I decided to bring my 195 cm skis. First measurement, 61 degrees, second measurement near the top, 68 degrees. This was definitely going to be the steepest 400’ of vert I have ever skied.

View of the coulie from the side:

We reached the top and Powpig wanted to look at the other lines from the top to see if there was something a little less intimidating to ski down. I agreed and followed, but my demented mind was fixed on skiing the elevator shaft. Each couloir we stood over looked just as steep as the others. A little wider, but still very exposed and steep. We ate some lunch at the top and took in the afternoon. After resting up for a bit it was time to make a go for it. Powpig dropped in first and used his ice axe as an added safety measure. I stood above and watched as he carefully slid and maneuvered his way down the narrow section.

Going down?

I came down next and only managed to make 2.5 jump turns down the narrows. I sideslipped down the rest of the narrow section. With my mind completely focused and heart thumping, I gripped my poles and ice axe as I exploded into another jump turn. At one point the pitch was so steep my edges couldn’t grip the snow and I went into a heart thumping slide for about 10’ of vertical. Slip, slip, slip, edges struggling to get enough hold onto the near vertical wall. Finally my edges dug into the snow and I regained some control. Phew. I took a deep breath and went for another turn and skidded another 10 or so feet towards Powpig.

Once past the narrows the slope mellowed out to 50 degrees. We made our way around the runnel and found some nice smooth snow on the skier’s left side of the couloir.

Getting past the runnel:

Powpig:

We got in over 1,550’ of skiing to a point just above Sky Pond. Not bad at all for the beginning of August. We skirted around the pond and took a break to look back at our line.

The weather held up nicely and the heat of the day tempted me to take a dip in the glacial waters of the pond. Without hesitation or time to think about how cold it would be, I cannonballed into the water off a small rock.

It seemed as though my limbs were instantly numb as I popped back up from underneath the water. It took a couple of seconds for me to let out a yell, as the shock of the cold took my breath away.

After getting out I decided to do it again. The cold water felt good on my aching bones. We continued along and made our way past the throngs of tourists on the lower portion of the trail. Yet another amazing and successful day. Looking forward to the next day out…..

**Art Vandelay** · 08-07-2005, 11:16 PM

Man all of your TRs are unreal. Way to constantly get after it.

**Trackhead** · 08-07-2005, 11:22 PM

Stairing into the face of GNAR!

Now pony up for Mexico.

Z · 08-07-2005, 11:28 PM

nice. fucking nice.

**MTT** · 08-08-2005, 12:55 AM

Looks like something I would like to do once in my lifetime
You do this shit all the time?
Great pic's. Excellent commentary
Impressive climb and descent

Again thank you for taking the time to post

**KillingCokes** · 08-08-2005, 01:01 AM

SWEET
Planning on hitting this next weekend with dside
Dave it's good to see you healed up quick. NICE JOB.
When we get back would you mind if we added pics?

**Arno** · 08-08-2005, 01:22 AM

verrrrrry nice

**tibaher** · 08-08-2005, 03:37 AM

doood that was a Killer TR!
fantastic pics and awesome locale fer sure

yes you :: rock

**shera** · 08-08-2005, 04:30 AM

So glad to hear that you are out and about already! Awesome!!!

**shera** · 08-08-2005, 04:33 AM

Originally Posted by Trackhead

Now pony up for Mexico.

FKNA. I want this so bad and Dave has to come.

**shera** · 08-08-2005, 04:34 AM

Originally Posted by KillingCokes

SWEET
Planning on hitting this next weekend with dside
Dave it's good to see you healed up quick. NICE JOB.
When we get back would you mind if we added pics?

And then Aimee and I will git er done a little later in the month. Taylor will be maggot infested for August...

**A-wreck** · 08-08-2005, 06:56 AM

So how are those rossi's holding up?
You've got quite a few miles on those things eh?

**shera** · 08-08-2005, 07:31 AM

I just ordered a camera! So excited!

Kodak EasyShare Z730 5MP Digital Camera with 4x Optical Zoom
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...9AVE6&v=glance

**jibij** · 08-08-2005, 07:34 AM

HO

LEE

CRAP!!

Beautiful pics.
That seems so far beyond my abilities that I'm not even jealous. I love your summer TR's, D. What's up with the injury talk? I must have missed something. Glad you're getting after it.

Stay safe out there.
I'll be right here waiting for the gnar of the ribbon of death.

**Blurred** · 08-08-2005, 07:37 AM

very nice TR homebizzle. Way to get back on the horse after the event last week.

This is your subconcious talking to you saying "water ramps".

**Baconzoo** · 08-08-2005, 07:39 AM

Phat-ass TR, way to be!

Swiming and skiing in the Sumertime.....

**lemon boy** · 08-08-2005, 07:42 AM

whoa. I think jibij summed that one up. Not even jealous.

**chaka** · 08-08-2005, 07:43 AM

holy shitballs, that looked hardcore. thanks for sharing your shorts-filling adventures

**Grange** · 08-08-2005, 07:47 AM

This thread just made my day. Great pictures.

**Barnballs** · 08-08-2005, 08:15 AM

sweet stuff as usual.

**PowderPig** · 08-08-2005, 08:37 AM

Originally Posted by A-wreck

So how are those rossi's holding up?
You've got quite a few miles on those things eh?

The rossis are holding up quite well - haven't been using them that much since I got the Bro's though. I picked the Rossis because knowing Dave, I'd probably want something shorter on this trip...

It was good to see Dave back out again after the nasty fall last week. Let's hope that the third version of the boots hold up better than the earlier ones!

When we were going up the last steep part to the top of the chute I told Dave that "I'm not skiing down THAT!" But after having checked out the alternatives it didn't feel that bad after all

We knew where the trickier parts were and in what condition the snow was in.

I need to get a couple of whippets though - skiing with an ice axe sucks! It felt really hard/weird making jump turns.

On the way up we spotted a couple of climbers on Petit Grepon - the narrow spire you can see in a couple of pictures. Even though it's supposed to be a fairly easy, classic climb, that looked GNARLY!