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06-14-2005, 09:49 AM #1
TR: Bell Cord Couloir, Maroon Bells 6.13.05
TR: Bell Cord Couloir, South Maroon Peak 6.13.05
iskibc, nhtele, john
South Maroon Peak 14,156’
The majestic Maroon Bells rise dramatically above the valley floor below. There’s no easy way to reach the summit of these peaks, as all of the routes are class 3/4 climbs. The Maroon Bells are located in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness area and are possibly the most photographed high peaks in North America. Rising a quick 4,500’ from the valley floor, these fourteeners pose many dangers to climbers and skiers. Falling rock & ice, avalanches, and the sheer technicality of these two peaks make climbing the Maroon Bells very dangerous. These peaks are unforgiving and will bite if your guard is let down.
The Bell Cord Couloir splits North and South Maroon Peaks in the middle from a saddle about 300’ below the summit of S. Maroon. The couloir runs straight down to the valley floor below making it a nice 3,500’ ski. The couloir has a consistent pitch of around 45 degrees, with some spots reaching 50 degrees near the top.
Sunday, 8:35 PM
Phone rings and its nhtele calling from Aspen. “The weather is going to clear and John and I are thinking about going for the Bell Cord tomorrow morning, you interested?” I don’t think it took more than .43 seconds to process and then make a decision. The bells have been on my to-do list for quite a few years now, and finally I’m going to get the chance. I didn’t realize until a few minutes after I got off the phone with nhtele that I would have to leave in a few hours to make our 3 AM start at the Maroon Creek trailhead. I had a nice 4+ hour, 225 mile drive ahead of me into the night. Right then it hit me that I would get no sleep whatsoever, but that didn’t really matter since I was so psyched to get after this gem.
Sunday, 10:49 PM
Out the door and on the road to Aspen.
Monday, 3:08 AM
After driving through blizzard like conditions over Loveland and Vail pass I arrived in Aspen to a starlit sky and calm winds. I met up with nhtele and his friend John at the trailhead and we took off for Crater Lake within minutes. Within 60 minutes we were at the base of the lower apron and put on our skins. We skinned up through 6-8” of very light and dry fresh powder that had fallen earlier that night.
We skinned up through garbage chute and traversed over to the upper apron of the couloir. By this time the sun was just beginning to rise and the first few rays of light spread across the upper portions of the bells:
Monday, 6:15 AM
We skinned most of the way up the upper apron and then took a much needed break for breakfast.
Watching the sunrise in the Maroon Creek drainage is magical. The reddish-purplish peaks, the vibrant green foliage in the valley below, the crystal clear lakes, and the snow capped high peaks make for a great early morning scene.
Monday, 6:55 AM
We began boot packing up the couloir as it got too steep to skin. We noticed a lot of loading had occurred in the main gut of the couloir from the previous storm. In spots the new snow was 2’ deep, yet showed good signs of bonding to the solid spring layer underneath. Concerns were brought up by all and we talked about our plan of attack. The climbing got more difficult as we ascended the main couloir.
The new snow was deep and we were up past our knees with each step. By this point we had to come to a decision to either turn around or continue under extreme caution. We decided to move along since the conditions were still reasonably safe and we still had some time before it got hot.
Looking down towards Maroon Lake and the trailhead:
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06-14-2005, 09:49 AM #2
Monday, 10:15 AM
Each step was laboring, and the day grew older and older as we approached the last summit stretch. The sun was really working the snow in the couloir by now and it was a certainty in my mind things would get tricky on the descent. Once we reached the top we went over our plan and discussed all the safety concerns for our run.
nhtele after topping out:
nhtele set up a dead-man anchor and belayed me as I tested the slope. Several hard jumps and nothing went. We poked around for a bit and still found nothing overly dangerous. Since the snow was getting heavy and wet I was hoping to make a cut at the top and make the main gut slide down to the spring layer.
Knowing there were no parties below I made A simple cut and it went all the way to the upper apron. A sense of relief came to me and we decided to ski the spring layer on the upper section.
John making his first few turns:
We found better and more stable snow on a northeasterly aspect.
John:
Unfortunately it got cut-off by ledges and cliff bands further down:
nhtele:
About half-way down we tested out a slope skier’s right. My sleep deprived mind wasn’t thinking when I made a turn above this cliff band and the new snow fractured around me.
Luckily I didn't get carried over. We continued down the rest of the couloir and remained cautious about our lines of choice.
nhtele watching John carve turns into the lighter and more stable snow:
nhtele making turns down below:
iski:
Can you find the skier?
When we reached the lower apron we witnessed a large ice fall cascade down directly from the summit and start a large wet slide on the upper apron. It ran for about 2 minutes before coming to rest down below. It’s amazing the powers nature possesses.
Coming down the lower apron:
Thanks to a strong team we were able to get down the run safe. Another great day in the high peaks of Colorado.
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06-14-2005, 09:56 AM #3
TFSB!!!
My jaw literally dropped when I saw this pic!
…going back to read the TR.
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06-14-2005, 09:58 AM #4
That was simply amazing! Way to get after it gentlement.
Fresh Tracks are the ultimate graffitti.
Schmear
Set forth the pattern to succeed.
Sam Kavanagh
Friends of Tuckerman Ravine
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06-14-2005, 09:59 AM #5
Very nice! Way to make it home safe.
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06-14-2005, 10:01 AM #6
Finally a TR about a couloir where some body was pointing them down hill
well done gentlemenPoints on their own sitting way up high
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06-14-2005, 10:01 AM #7
FUCKING CORE!
totally fucking sick...2 feet of fresh on june 13th = sickter mc rickter
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06-14-2005, 10:03 AM #8
sweet line, great pictures and a story well told
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06-14-2005, 10:04 AM #9
[monty burns voice]
Excellent!
[/mbv]"It is not the result that counts! It is not the result but the spirit! Not what - but how. Not what has been attained - but at what price.
- A. Solzhenitsyn
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06-14-2005, 10:11 AM #10
Wow, I enjoyed that read. Well done. I'm glad you didn't go over those cliffs!
"Can't vouch for him, though he seems normal via email."
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06-14-2005, 10:12 AM #11
NICE!!!
I climbed that line when I was 14, in late July. Then it was a 5 foot wide runnelled unskiable mess. Your pics make it look doable. Props.
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06-14-2005, 10:13 AM #12
nice
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06-14-2005, 10:16 AM #13Lambaster
- Join Date
- Nov 2003
- Location
- My armchair
- Posts
- 4,895
very fuggin' kewl!!!!!
love the "can you find the skier" pic"... she'll never need a doctor; 'cause I check her out all day"
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06-14-2005, 10:19 AM #14
great work, man. Well done.!
"When restraint and courtesy are added to strength, the latter becomes irresistible."
Mohandas Gandhi
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06-14-2005, 10:22 AM #15
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06-14-2005, 10:22 AM #16
Nicely! One of the best TR of the season.
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06-14-2005, 10:29 AM #17
Damn dudes…that’s what it’s all about! So sick and nicely done.
I really enjoyed the read. It’s funny how amped you (collectively) can get in anticipation of a ski day…so much so that you deprive yourself of sleep to make it possible. Smart move with the ski cut too.
Thanks for another keeper!
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06-14-2005, 10:40 AM #18
Way to rally to the start!
Man, there is a ton of snow back there. It seems like there is quite a bit of snow up high for this time of year. NE face of N. Maroon still doable? Hard to tell with the dusting, but it still looks filled in.A lot of people earn their turns. Some just get bigger checks.
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06-14-2005, 10:42 AM #19
gnar gnar Dave
way to git sum
impressive pix
some really sketchy spots as well
looking forward to some summer turns with ya
AD
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06-14-2005, 10:51 AM #20
B-E-A-UTIFUL!!
Sweet TR. Looked like it was alot of fun."I just looked down to see if I was wearing my seatbelt, and I'm sitting at my desk in my room."
http://www.flickr.com/photos/owencaprell/
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06-14-2005, 10:57 AM #21
2 legit 2 quit!
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06-14-2005, 11:15 AM #22skier
- Join Date
- Dec 2002
- Location
- The Garden State
- Posts
- 4,771
That's what it's all about. Nicely done!!
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06-14-2005, 11:17 AM #23Registered User
- Join Date
- Jun 2004
- Location
- Market St. Station
- Posts
- 1,034
Super nice....sweet TR and pics
let your tracks be lost in the dark and snow
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06-14-2005, 11:23 AM #24
NICE!!! I'm glad you were able to finally hit that line. Absolutely awesome. I love this shot with Pyramid Peak.
Living the good life.
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06-14-2005, 11:27 AM #25
Thanks, you have made it completely impossible for me to even think about working this afternoon.
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