WTF is up with dynafit toe pieces?

[sfotex]

Ripped a dynafit toe piece out of a 2nd ski yesterday.
That's 2 toe pieces in 2 different brands of skis in a few months.

3.6 drill bit (no metal), dynafit jig, gorilla glue, hand tightened with a posidrive, etc.

I had a shop mount the first one that ripped out, I did the second mount 'to make sure it got done right'

This is really,really starting to piss me off. Should I heli coil from the start and be done with it??

Anyone else having problems? I'm like 155 lbs and typically don't break stuff.
I haven't had any problems with any other bindings.

[El Chupacabra]

Anyone else having problems? I'm like 355 lbs and typically don't break stuff.
I haven't had any problems with any other bindings.

That explains it... Drop some weight there, big fella.


Dunno. Why do you use Gorilla Glue? (expands when it cures -- maybe it's putting weird pressure on your screws?)

I just use Titebond wood glue that has some blurb about waterproofing on the label. If I re-mounting bindings in old holes, and the holes feel sloppy, I'll use 24-hr epoxy. If it's really suspicious-looking, I'll stuff some fiberglas house insulation into the hole along with the epoxy, under the theory that the fiberglas strands help provide some structure to the epoxy. Even when I've had a binding screw spin (i.e. stripped threads), the epoxy + fiberglas fix has held up for me -- no ripped-out bindings, ever. But, this is on alpine bindings, so there have always been other screws holding down the toe or heel as well.

With any mount (regular wood glue or epoxy), I bring the skis inside the house overnight to let the glue cure in warm temps.

[jon turner]

Ripped a dynafit toe piece out of a 2nd ski yesterday.
That's 2 toe pieces in 2 different brands of skis in a few months.

3.6 drill bit (no metal), dynafit jig, gorilla glue, hand tightened with a posidrive, etc.

I had a shop mount the first one that ripped out, I did the second mount 'to make sure it got done right'

This is really,really starting to piss me off. Should I heli coil from the start and be done with it??

Anyone else having problems? I'm like 155 lbs and typically don't break stuff.
I haven't had any problems with any other bindings.

I have three pairs, ski them in and out of bounds pretty hard and never had a problem. Weird.

[sfotex]

That explains it... Drop some weight there, big fella.


Dunno. Why do you use Gorilla Glue? (expands when it cures -- maybe it's putting weird pressure on your screws?)

I just use Titebond wood glue that has some blurb about waterproofing on the label. If I re-mounting bindings in old holes, and the holes feel sloppy, I'll use 24-hr epoxy. If it's really suspicious-looking, I'll stuff some fiberglas house insulation into the hole along with the epoxy, under the theory that the fiberglas strands help provide some structure to the epoxy. Even when I've had a binding screw spin (i.e. stripped threads), the epoxy + fiberglas fix has held up for me -- no ripped-out bindings, ever. But, this is on alpine bindings, so there have always been other screws holding down the toe or heel as well.

With any mount (regular wood glue or epoxy), I bring the skis inside the house overnight to let the glue cure in warm temps.

The gorilla glue has been debated here before, but SFB swears by it and has mounted 1000's of skis with it, so I don't think that's the issue.

[srsosbso]

I guess, given the dynafit toepiece design, there might possibly be more force transmitted to the ski/binding interface than with a standard alpine binding? The screw holes are also closer together than some alpine bindings. Having said all that, it seems more like a ski (vs. binding) issue. Your binding is intact- in a way it's the ski that 'failed' to hang on to the screws. Two different brands, you said?

[JoeStrummer]

hmmm, I have 3 or 4 pairs in heavy use and never experienced an issue. I use shops for my mounts, though, if I did it myself they would probably burst into flames. Weird.

Headed out to do some Comfort testing right now!

[ill-advised strategy]

Why do you use Gorilla Glue? (expands when it cures -- maybe it's putting weird pressure on your screws?)

I just use Titebond wood glue that has some blurb about waterproofing on the label. If I re-mounting bindings in old holes, and the holes feel sloppy, I'll use 24-hr epoxy. If it's really suspicious-looking, I'll stuff some fiberglas house insulation into the hole along with the epoxy, under the theory that the fiberglas strands help provide some structure to the epoxy. Even when I've had a binding screw spin (i.e. stripped threads), the epoxy + fiberglas fix has held up for me -- no ripped-out bindings, ever. But, this is on alpine bindings, so there have always been other screws holding down the toe or heel as well.

With any mount (regular wood glue or epoxy), I bring the skis inside the house overnight to let the glue cure in warm temps.

^I 2nd that word for word, that's exactly what came to mind when I read the OP.

are they foam core skis? that seems like it could be a factor with that expanding glue too...
shit...rereading now: I'd trust SFB, except that I have an image in my mind of this expanding foam pushing on a foam core and compromising the integrity of the screw hole.

any chance you overtorqued? I know I've overpowered by hand before...

[1000-oaks]

any chance you overtorqued? I know I've overpowered by hand before...

X2. Once the screw starts to get tight and the binding is pulled against the ski, making it tighter doesn't make the connection any stronger. All the threads are already in the ski, and more torque torque can only deform and tear out the material in the ski.

I've stripped plenty myself, it's hard to not overdo it. Now I tighten binding screws with one hand on the screwdriver, will a fully extended arm to cut down on how much torque I can put on it. (instead of both hands with the screwdiver, with the ski near my chest, where you can really crank on it)

[sfotex]

Both wood cores, one was actually the skis I was on yesterday, Yetiman.
I'm thinking it's a core thing?

I maybe the skis are soft and the flex is working the screws out? The other toe piece was loose too, I tightened it
by hand.

[Meathelmet]

Both wood cores, one was actually the skis I was on yesterday, Yetiman.
I'm thinking it's a core thing?

I maybe the skis are soft and the flex is working the screws out? The other toe piece was loose too, I tightened it
by hand.

Ripped both of the bindings of sumos couple of months ago and I am a feather weighter.. I guess it has something to do with the ski/skiwidth. The sumos core were a complete mush and with that width,well..
The toe pattern of the dynafits are unforgivable,with skis with a soft topsheet (not metal) and soft cores it is bound to give problems. Let alone if you use wider skis and on harder snow.

Have had few skis before with dynas that are or were doing fine,but I would be wary of mounting any wider sticks without metal.


Btw,what skis were they?

[corn dog]

The other toe piece was loose too, I tightened it
by hand.

Thats interesting. With gorilla glue? One time I used that stuff and, trying to unscrew a binding broke the screw before anything else gave. Hadn't skied that one that much though.

I had the toe-piece screws work loose on those old blue carbon surfs, after a while the whole screw area was just crumbling dust. I blame that one on the skis.

[splat]

I just got a mail from a guy who ripped a dynafit toe out of a pair of 183s. Kinda surprising, as Lani skied the same setup all last year and usually broke the skis first. Z-bro ripped one out of a 179 Fat last year, but it was a wicked bad fall. Since we put Dore Tech in the screw hole areas of the Bros we make in Reno, I was surprised that Z yanked one, but not too surprised the Euro built 183s allowed it to come out. I'd recommend epoxy for dynafit toes on wood core skis.

[AsheanMT]

I've got about 20 days on my Comforts and 179 BRO's. Most days were inbounds and I've ski'd them pretty damn hard. Had seven good size tours one of which was with a full pack and I haven't had any problems. I mounted mine using pechelmans template, 24hr epoxy, and made sure not to strip any of the holes.

[flip]

Never had problems in heli-daddies with their foam cores and carbon/glass construction, but I did rip alpine heels out of both of my seth pistols... wood can be pretty soft. I put inserts in all four holes and never had a hint of problems again. Brass the first ski, plastic/nylon when the second ski went... I'd recommend either if you're having problems or expect to have them in the future. Just make sure you get them in exactly the right spot for aligning those dynafit toes.

http://www.tognar.com/binding_tools_...ard.html#plugs

[frorider]

too much tailgunning?






hey you knew someone was going to say it.

[laseranimal]

Highly unlikely but are you sure you're full unlocking the toepiece in downhill mode?

[sfotex]

Skiing in ski mode on the downhill.

First pair was high societies, 2nd pair was moment bibby pros.

So I was playing around in the garage with the bibbys and I noticed that I could pressure the back of the boot and noticeably move the tip of the ski upwards. It seems like with a regular alpine binding this would be almost impossible?

[Trainwreck]

I have ripped toe pieces out, but always when the toe is locked.

[panchosdad]

I ripped out a dynafit toe on a Soft Bro last year. Did it on some very firm steep skinning with ski crampons, which would seem to put a lot of torque on the binding. I blamed it on mounting too close to old mount holes, but who knows?

I'm only 155 myself.

[XXX-er]

IMO gorrila or ureathane glue is pretty much like wood glue in terms of holding power ,it is VERY waterproof and seeks out moisture

the instructions say to wet wood so when I used it I spit in the binding holes ,the glue bubbles up and seeks out the moisture

buddy who fixed the crack in my foundation used a big gun full of the stuff

IMO slow set epoxy for extreme use ... alot of the folks here

[pechelman]

ill say that screwing in a dynafit toe piece can be really annoying and can potentially F' up your ski by volcano'ing the topsheet
this is because the dynafit baseplate is threaded...why, i really have no idea
even when applying tons of downward pressure, and going slowly, you can volcano your topsheet

the solution
drill out your baseplate so the screws slide in and out easily.

[GeezerSteve]

the solution
drill out your baseplate so the screws slide in and out easily.

Great suggestion. I've drilled every Dynafit toe baseplate I've mounted. It's a manifestly stupid design. I have often wondered why it's designed that way.

[sfotex]

ill say that screwing in a dynafit toe piece can be really annoying and can potentially F' up your ski by volcano'ing the topsheet
this is because the dynafit baseplate is threaded...why, i really have no idea
even when applying tons of downward pressure, and going slowly, you can volcano your topsheet

the solution
drill out your baseplate so the screws slide in and out easily.

I take a new toe piece and a driver and run the screw in and out a few times until it moves easily in the hole (this can describe other things too) This helps
stop the dreaded top sheet bubble.

I was at Lowe's yesterday and they had some new 'sumo' glue from loctite. It's a polyurethane glue like Gorilla, but they say it foams less...

[pechelman]

i tried to strip the threads in the baseplate by doing the same thing and it never really helped that much until i took a bit to it
it sounds like your mileage definitely varied though

if you think its the glue, why are you messing around with polys?
just use epoxy, shred up some steel wool or fiberglass insulation, and be done with it

[sfotex]

if you think its the glue, why are you messing around with polys?
just use epoxy, shred up some steel wool or fiberglass insulation, and be done with it

I think epoxy is going to be my new approach to this problem in the future.