Location: James Peak Super Star Couloir
Date: June 7 2008
Slayers: FrontRangeDrummer, Nick PappaG (moral support), Bernardo
Story:
Last Saturday when NPG, JC, and I went to James Peak it was decided to not let the gnar that Super Star is be gone to waste and ski it the next weekend.
Saturday was the day. The goal - hike up St. Mary's glacier, drop down into the James Peak East Basin, climb up Super Star to evaluate conditions, and obviously ski the gnar. A 3am wake-up time made for enough time to cook a pound of pasta for breakfast and a timely departure from the St. Mary's Trailhead at 5.45'ish. Unfortunately, due to some technical problems with NPG's gear, we had a 1 hour delay at the base of the glacier, which cost us the excitement of climbing the couloir. Due to temperatures and snow conditions we decided to hike the ridge to the peak and drop into the couloir from the top.
FRD and I reached the summit at around 9.30am and met up with a few other skiers and hikers (who were gracious enough to take pictures of us skiing later on). At this point, a switch in my head flipped - I knew I was about to drop into the gnarliest line of the season. Excitement started to build up, mixed with tension. Oddly, I felt totally calm and focused on the task ahead.
Carl and I geared up, got the rope and tools ready, and headed 300ft down the north ridge to Super Star.
The entrance was gnarly. The cornice was huge, it had grown even more from what I had seen in the latest pics. Fortunately, it was/would have been big enough to plant a snow picket and rappel off of it, something we decided against to save the picket but in hindsight realize would have been the much easier, safer, and faster method. We looked all around the couloir for rock outcrops to hang webbing or nuts/hex' from for a rappel, but for the life of it could not find an appropriate spot. The only somewhat appropriate rock for a webbing crumbled into pieces as soon as we put some pressure on it.
It was decided that a downclimb was the only option. To skiers right of the couloir/cornice was a somewhat less steep (65-70degree) snow/ice covered entrance that led over some rocks down into the couloir. We packed up, and I decided to go ahead and give it a try as first. With both ice tools in my hand (a straight ice axe and an ice climbing tool), I started to very very slowly freeclimb my way into the couloir. It was nerve wrecking, but I was calm and focused and was taking very deliberate steps.
It took each of us 15-20 minutes to downclimb into the couloir and put the skis on (not nearly as easy as I thought it would be, to remove the skis from my pack and click into them on a 60 degree slope, self belaying on 2 ice tools).
That leads me into the skiing and, honestly, the less interesting part of the TR. The skiing SUCKED HAIRY DONKEY BALLS. By the time we got to it, the snow was too soft, Thursday's new snow formed into 4-5" deep wet slides heavy enough to keep you from turning well. These conditions and the exposure made for a very tense ~10 minute ski of the couloir. Only at the bottom, waiting for Carl to get down, was I able to fully relax and take in the line (and the accomplishment) in its entirety. Carl, too, got down safely and with confidence, and we both congratulated each other on a sick sick line.
A great fuckin day was had, and I'm glad that we got to ski such a beautiful and exposed line (mostly thanks to this year's snow conditions). The conclusion, however: the line could've/should've been skied ~6 weeks ago when coverage was slightly better, the cornice slightly smaller, and the snow safer.
Evidence:
Carl & I standing at the top of Super Star looking for belay.
Me starting to downclimb into Super Star
Putting skis on - more difficult than I thought... Can you find Carl downclimbing?
Halfway down
Almost down...
The reward!
DUH
Off to bed now can't keep my eyes open, more tomorrow.
Carl should have some awesome pics!
_B
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