The Line - John Scurlock Photo
It's the couloir that trickles off the right side of Mt Rainier in this photo. If you don't see it, click click.
Ben, Josh, and Jason took this one as far as they could in 2003. More here. I mentioned this trip to both Jason and Josh; neither showed interest.
Monika and mountain magic
I often prefer to repeat classic lines in the best possible style, rather than pursue inferior novelty. Eric, Monika, Ryan, and I found all the excitement we craved; at moments it seemed maybe more.
The cornice required some strenuous maneuvers up overhanging snow. We didn't have any pro. Some of the wiring in my brain got shorted after I gave myself two ice-cream headaches trying to knock snow off the cornice, then I surmounted it with anger alone. I had brought a 20 meter segment of 7 mm cord for antics, so I lowered it from above to offer my three companions a little more security.
Off the edge of the world...
First I rapped into the thing from one side where snow seemed to cover the slabby rock well enough by slinging a big chunk of granite. There was just enough snow for Ryan to do the same. Then it looked bleak. Monika and Eric finally entered via a rappel from a bollard.
That's as far as the magic spaghetti will get me.
The snow was a little funky moving off that thinly-coated slab.
Ryan's turn
There was some gnar where I did some downward rockclimbing on my skis. I would have switched to crampons if I hadn't put myself in a committed position unintentionally. I was happy to have survived the rocks on my skis; I advised the others to switch to crampons and axes.
for dudes making rad stix
super steep but perfect snow
We found great powder in the couloir after long-time sustained adrenal dilation. We used screams of joy off the sides of the uber-aesthetic couloir to pretrigger suspended slides off the climber's-right face in the sun, like a bat uses SONAR to find insects. On that note, we finish with an anagram from Nabokov: Insect incest nicest?
Eric getting the goods in the couloir
sorry to bore everyone with wimpy dynafit turns
Ryan ripping it
Mo-money
More powder for Ryan
Take it home, Ryan.
That'll help me feel better about my office this week. Oh yeah.
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