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Thread: Fox vs RoxShox - Who Takes It?
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04-16-2012, 11:00 AM #26Registered User
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One of you fork tuning gurus help me out here. I've got last year's Revelation RLT Ti Dual Air. I will admit I have not had a chance to spend a day doing nothing but twiddling w/ fork adjustments while out on the trail, which is what I want/need to do. However, the one thing that I've been a little disappointed with is the plushness of the fork. I started out w/ the pressure at the level indicated on the fork leg for my weight, same pressure in both chambers. It practically felt like a rigid fork at that pressure. So I started dropping it, and am now down to what seems awfully low - like 80psi in the upper chamber (I'm ~160lbs w/o gear on). I dropped the lower chamber pressure down to 70psi, which definitely helped, but I'm still surprised that it is as firm as it is. Even at those pressures, I have yet to use all of the travel (the travel indicator never gets closer than about 1" from the crown). I have not messed with the rebound settings - is that my problem?
As a point of reference, this is the first air fork I've had - my other bikes both have Marz coils.
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04-16-2012, 11:09 AM #27
If its not plush enough, put more air in the negative chamber. Taking air out of the negative chamber makes the fork stiffer, just like adding air to the positive chamber. You're basically doing it backwards. Negative Chamber: more air = more plushness. Positive Chamber: less air = more plushness. Start at the recommended pressure for both, then adjust until you find a nice balance.
All I know is that I don't know nothin'... and that's fine.
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04-16-2012, 11:36 AM #28Registered User
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I think I am about 100psi in the negative bottom and 105 in the top. Remember to adjust the bottom first, bring it up to the pressure you want then do the top.
I adjusted the pressure and cranked up the rebound some more and I am really starting to like this little fork. It's on a new bike that I am also messing with bar width and stem height so the first four rides have been constant fiddling and yesterday it all finally started to come together. Next is to start getting the rear dialed in.
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04-16-2012, 01:29 PM #29Finstah Guest
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04-16-2012, 01:37 PM #30
I always do the positive chamber first as well. If you do the negative first, the fork sucks down and I never seem to get the pressure right. I like to fill them both to recommended (positive first), then pedal it around the driveway (hit/jump off curbs, etc) and make adjustments as needed.
All I know is that I don't know nothin'... and that's fine.
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04-16-2012, 02:29 PM #31Registered User
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hmmm maybe I was wrong, it was a friend that told me to tweak the -ve (bottom) first.
Found this on BikeRadar.
There is a clear description in the manual: if you don't have one, download from SRAM.
This is a basic step by step guide on how to set the forks up from scratch.
- Deflate the negative air chamber ( be aware that you WILL lose oil if the valve is pointing straight down).
- Deflate the positive air chamber
- Ensure the fork is not locked out
- Add air to the +ve chamber until you get the SAG you require. Make a note of the pressure.
- Inflate the -ve chamber to the same pressure.
- If you want a firmer start to the suspension feel, remove up to 15psi from the -ve chamber
- If you want a more supple start, ADD upto 15psi to the -ve chamber
- Adding more -ve pressure can suck the fork down into its travel
Don't forget you have damping adjusters too.Newer dual air forks require a slightly different proceedure:
Dual air is very tunable, but RS do not recommend adjusting the negative chamber outside the prescribed +/- 10psi from the main air chamber. If you do, you need to know what you are doing as the sag measurements can be confusing. For most people:
- set the sag to 25%, whilst stood on the bike, with equal pressure in the negative and positive chambers. Note these pressures.
- for a softer feel at the start of the stroke add more negative pressure, up to an extra 10psi
- for a firmer feel to the start of the stroke reduce neagative pressure, again up to 10psi.
Adjusting neg pressure may make the fork sit higher or lower in its fully extended state. Be aware of this.
- adjust compression damping to suit. And rebound.
Go and ride. Tweak. If you are not bottoming the fork ever, try 30% sag. if you are, try 20% sag.
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04-16-2012, 05:23 PM #32
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04-16-2012, 07:24 PM #33Registered User
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Well where the hell did I get the idea that I should put less in the bottom chamber (that's negative, right?) I must have just plain misread it, cuz I certainly had no idea how to do it when I got the fork.
Anyhoo, thank's for straightening me out, now I'm excited to go out and play w/ it.
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04-17-2012, 09:13 AM #34
I see more fox stanchions scored from dirty seals than any other brand. I can connect this to people buying nicer bikes that come with them that intern ride more but also dont maintain there stuff though. That being said some one in the same position with RS fork seems to have better luck.
a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
Formerly Rludes025
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04-17-2012, 10:12 PM #35
thought people would be interested in this: http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/04/17/...te-rear-shock/
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04-26-2012, 02:49 PM #36
So now I'm looking at forks that ideally can do 160mm and 150mm. Would you still recommend the x-fusion stuff? Looking at a giant reign frameset from 2011. I know the reign 0 from the same year came with a fox 32.
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