Duke on Bro related mounting??

[time2clmb]

So, I have searched high and low but have not found anything targeted to my question. Just small bits here and there. I also tried the Marker site and due to "liability" concerns, they don't have directions posted there.

I have a pair of Lhasa's and some Dukes that I want to mount on them. All of the shop mount destruction threads kind of makes me want to mount them myself, but I don't want to fuck it up either, since I don't have skis to practice mount on.

To start, is this even a good idea for me to try it for the first time on skis that I don't want fucked? After reading other threads, it seems that the best way is to place the screws by hand after drilling a starter hole, is this correct? How deep should the drilled hole be? Any concerns with mounting that are specific to the Lhasa? Is locktite a good choice for the screws? Best way that you have found to find the lengthwise midline of the ski? ect ect...

Like I said before, there's bits and pieces from different people all over, let's get it all on one thread.

It can't be that fucking hard, but I want to get it right and I want it to last with the best possible results. I don't want to miss any details.

It also seems that there are plenty of other out there that are putting Dukes on Lhasa's, so this can also be kind of a consolidated one stop shop thread for others to post questions.

Good thread that's kind of related:
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...d.php?t=143730

[jondrums]

If you do exactly as I say, its not that hard:

*get a sharp center punch from the hardware store.
*get a 3.6mm drill bit (4.1mm if the ski has a metal topsheet)
*do yourself a favor and buy a collar for the drill bit - so you don't drill too deep.
*get slow cure two part epoxy glue (NOT 5/10 minute epoxy) - any hardware store and most drug stores have this
*get a #3 posidrive screwdriver
*obtain a paper template for the bindings (dukes come with it)

~Find the lengthwise center line of the skis and draw it on the ski (measure twice)
~Tape the paper template on the ski perfectly centered for boot center line and lengthwise center line
~use the centerpunch and light hammer blow through the paper to mark the exact center of each of the holes
~remove the paper and circle the center punch marks so you can see them better
~dryfit your bindings on to test your hole locations, and double check your bsl (this is pretty easy with dukes)
~put the collar on the drill bit exactly 9mm from the end.
~drill all the holes - make sure you drill in straight vertical
~mix up some epoxy real good, use a toothpick to put some all the way in each of the holes - if you fill them, it'll be too much and squeeze out, so go easy on it.
~put the bindings on and tighten down the screws - use only a #3 posidrive screwdriver, and push down hard on the screwdriver while you screw them in. your wrist will get tired, but resist the temptation to use your drill for this.

If you're scared to do it on your new skis the first time, get a 2x4 from the scrap bin, and run through the instructions until you feel comfortable. (skip the epoxy on the 2x4).

[tsproul]

*get a 4.1mm drill bit.

3.6 mm is probably better. No metal in Lhasa's.

'least, that is what Splat recommended to me.

[AsheanMT]

If you live in Banff then you should just take them to Mntlion. Give him some money and beer and I'm sure he'll take very good care of you.

[jondrums]

4.1mm is for a metal topsheet.
DOH - fixed

[time2clmb]

If you do exactly as I say, its not that hard:

*get a sharp center punch from the hardware store.
*get a 3.6mm drill bit (4.1mm if the ski has a metal topsheet)
*do yourself a favor and buy a collar for the drill bit - so you don't drill too deep.
*get slow cure two part epoxy glue (NOT 5/10 minute epoxy) - any hardware store and most drug stores have this
*get a #3 posidrive screwdriver
*obtain a paper template for the bindings (dukes come with it)

~Find the lengthwise center line of the skis and draw it on the ski (measure twice)
~Tape the paper template on the ski perfectly centered for boot center line and lengthwise center line
~use the centerpunch and light hammer blow through the paper to mark the exact center of each of the holes
~remove the paper and circle the center punch marks so you can see them better
~dryfit your bindings on to test your hole locations, and double check your bsl (this is pretty easy with dukes)
~put the collar on the drill bit exactly 9mm from the end.
~drill all the holes - make sure you drill in straight vertical
~mix up some epoxy real good, use a toothpick to put some all the way in each of the holes - if you fill them, it'll be too much and squeeze out, so go easy on it.
~put the bindings on and tighten down the screws - use only a #3 posidrive screwdriver, and push down hard on the screwdriver while you screw them in. your wrist will get tired, but resist the temptation to use your drill for this.

If you're scared to do it on your new skis the first time, get a 2x4 from the scrap bin, and run through the instructions until you feel comfortable. (skip the epoxy on the 2x4).

Excellent. Thanks alot for that.

AsheanMT:
If you live in Banff then you should just take them to Mntlion. Give him some money and beer and I'm sure he'll take very good care of you.

I talked to him already and he gave me a recommendation for a place. I still might do it myself though. I'll have to check the garage first though.

[snoboy]

*get a 3.6mm drill bit (4.1mm if the ski has a metal topsheet)
*do yourself a favor and buy a collar for the drill bit - so you don't drill too deep.

If you're gonna do this, you might as well get a proper ski drill bit. The same place that you buy your pozidrive screwdriver from (ie your local ski shop) may well be able to supply it.

Go and read everything on Lou Dawson's site www.wildsnow.com about mounting skis (look on his ARTICLES page). He has a sweet trick for finding the lengthwise centre line.

[jondrums]

If you're gonna do this, you might as well get a proper ski drill bit. The same place that you buy your pozidrive screwdriver from (ie your local ski shop) may well be able to supply it.

agreed. tognar.com has the 3.6x9mm drill bit for $15
they also sell a #3 pozidrive screwdriver, and good epoxy

[klauss]

4.1mm is for a metal topsheet.
DOH - fixed

Probably a stupid question, but is the 4.1 x 9mm drill bit also for a ski with metal in it, like the Rossignal SC 108 for example. When you/others say metal top sheet I think Volants.

Or should I be using the 3.6 x 9 mm.

There is no recomendation for using a "screw tap" to make threads. Is that a must if yes to the 4.1 x 9mm.

Also, any recomendation on finding screws for a salomon s900 binding. The ones I have are long due to riser.

Thanks

[splat]

I also recommend epoxy in the holes.
The ripouts I have seen have all been due to waterlogged glue.
Measure your screw lengths...

[klauss]

Thanks Splat. I was definitely going to use epoxy.

Regarding screw length I should have said the ones I have are too long as I am not going to use the risers when I mount the bindings.

Found some other usefull threads on this, but finding where to get and the correct size screws still eludes me.

[skew]

tognar.com has info on using taps for metal in the ski. In the section on binding related products. slidewright.com seems to have the screws covered.

[cfaller]

Unless you have the tools at home. I would heli-coil your dukes. Word on the street and this comes from my local shop (just got back from the SIA show) is that the heel pieces are coming off. Being they are the shop of shops in my district, I treat it as the word of GOD himself. They heli-coil every binder they sell and mount from JUMP! And you should have screw size on the side of the ski or the side of the binding box. happy ripping!

[klauss]

Thanks for the tips.

I am actually mounting Salomon S900s to Rossignol SC 108 skis (I hijacked this thread).

The skis do show a pic of a screw and the specs 3.5 x 9.5 on the top sheet. I beleive this is the size of the drill bit that should be used, but I could be wrong...

Bindings are old, so not specs listed and as stated the current screws are way too long because they were meant for use with a lifter plate.

[splat]

There is no recomendation for using a "screw tap" to make threads. Is that a must if yes to the 4.1 x 9mm.

If that was a question...
No. Shops drill and drive screws everywhere all day everyday without tapping.

[klauss]

Yeah that was a question. I thought that if the answer was yes to the "do I need to go with a 4.1 x 9 mm bit?" would that mean I should definitely use a tap as well.

You say no need and I have read where others have had success using a lot of downward pressure went hand driving the screw....so thanks.

I guess the only q's I have outstanding are what screw size to buy for the Salomon s900 and do I want to go with the top sheet spec of 3.5 x 9.5 mm for a drill bit which is contrary to what I have been researching here?

[DropCliffsNotBombs]

Unless you have the tools at home. I would heli-coil your dukes. Word on the street and this comes from my local shop (just got back from the SIA show) is that the heel pieces are coming off. Being they are the shop of shops in my district, I treat it as the word of GOD himself. They heli-coil every binder they sell and mount from JUMP! And you should have screw size on the side of the ski or the side of the binding box. happy ripping!

OMG!! This entire post is just confusing.
This has been gone over before on here but one more time... helicoils are a non-permanent band-aid repair (like patching a bike tube). Helicoils are not nearly as strong as a standard mounting screw. I have mounted hundreds of Dukes and not one has ever ripped out all of the rear plate screws so it certainly is not a common problem (although the Duke DOES have common problems). If any shop EVER put EIGHTEEN helicoils into my brand new skis, I would insist on new ones since eighteen helicoils means that your skis are ruined!
Oh btw, bindings don't ever have screw sizes listed on the side of the box either.
I think that your "God" shop is messing with you.

[splat]

You say no need and I have read where others have had success using a lot of downward pressure went hand driving the screw....so thanks.

Having a solid feel for putting the screws in is security, so, yes, hand tighten them. If you don't have a driver with the right clutch setting and it's your first mount, you're better off putting them in by hand.

I believe the manual pdfs are in the sollie binding thread that will say what screws they take.
Take a look or try a search.

[DropCliffsNotBombs]

Standard adult alpine binding screw depth is 8mm.

[splat]

I would imagine every shop everywhere has a bunch of sollie screws laying around.

[klauss]

Yeah, the shops have not been interested in talking with me about parts after they found out what I was trying to get them to mount.

After re-examining my s900s it appears that there really isn't an option but to use the riser plates. The heal piece, specifically the rear two scews require the plastic housing, further the plastic housing has droup outs that interface with the yellow lifter. I did not realize this originally.

I have attached pics of the S900s (yellow). I also have these red 997s too mmmn.

And DropCliffsNotBombs, I don't think 8mm is standard, maybe if that is the measurement that comes out of the base of the binding...

[splat]

Search.
There's a thread for mounting those drivers flat.
Or it's in the sollie binding thread.

[klauss]

Yeah I've attemted the search. You telling me I'm on my own. .

Couldn't ever get any info on screw lengths or modifying the s900s so they can be mounted flat.

There was this post, but not helpful as my s900s plastic base have an offset that fits into the riser. W/o riser there would be issues mounting. You couldn't just shave down the back of the heel piece as the front of that plastic base has an offset to match.

Thanks for the input so far

[skimaxpower]

Also, any recomendation on finding screws for a salomon s900 binding. The ones I have are long due to riser.

Yeah, just take your bindings to a qualified ski shop. You're in over your head, you don't have the tools, and you don't have the ingredients.

Your shop either has a drawer full of old screws, or they can order the correct ones from Salomon. Either way, you won't eff-up your new Phantoms (or your knees.)

[klauss]

@ skimaxpower
If the ski shop, would do work with these perfectly fine specimens (bindings) then your suggestion may help somewhat. All I really needed was a suggestion on screws, specific length for screw that pop out the bottom of S900s with about 7-8mm of penetration, before I bought out the whole stock at slidewright.com to see what would work, then I saw an issue with a flat mount on these that I am sure some mag has encountered but dared to tell. Thanks though dood.

Need these mounted ASAP as my other skis are on warranty send back, good 3-4 week process.