SNEAK PEAK of a new product (Duke/Baron related)

[jondrums]

NOTE: In Stock Now!

Attachment 66330
(hollowed out on the underside to remove weight)

Introducing DynaDukeS (Dynafit and DukeSwap-plate)

• Ability to swap Duke and Dynafit bindings between multiple skis (each ski must have DynaDukeS)
• Three sets of holes for dynafit heels to fit same sizes of boots as dukes
• Wide mounting pattern, no interference with previous mounts (Duke/9XX/PXX/Dynafit)
• Fixes "5th screw pull-out" failure mode
• Works with small and large size dukes
• 6.5mm stack height
• Orange Hard Anodized 6061-T6 Aluminum
• about 100g per binding

[todug27]

not too be a dick, but mounting on these would probably void the warranty on the binding though and they have been known to have some issues. I think there definitely is a market for this type of thing though. Isn't it the g3 onyx that can switch between multiple skis?

[bennettc14]

I followed your tinkering with the idea a while back. Awesome idea and a really cool final product. You should look at some pricing from a metal guy and post up a group buy up here sometime. Don't know what it would have to cost but you'd have a lot of takers.

[jfost]

will the long "tongue" to get to the 5th screw get much torque when flipping the lever, that seems like it would want to flex right up off the ski!?!

[nick > jesus]

this looks like it would be awesome, i would probably be interested.

[MCskid]

About time we could switch 1 binding between skis like those damn boarders.

[nickwm21]

yea I dream about a universal mounting system 3-4 nights a week

[jondrums]

not too be a dick, but mounting on these would probably void the warranty on the binding

Are bindings only covered if they are mounted by a trained technician? If so 80% of the posters here have already voided their warranties. Personally if I had a problem, I would just unbolt the dukes and bring them into my local shop.

will the long "tongue" to get to the 5th screw get much torque when flipping the lever, that seems like it would want to flex right up off the ski!?!

Yeah, that's the reason for 6061 aluminum instead of just a high density plastic with threaded inserts. This thing will be bomber!

[mc_roon]

i would buy one. how would you ensure that the screws from the dukes to the interface remain solid after multiple switches?

[i killed judas.]

Posting in here so I can find it laterrrrrr

[skiingsamurai]

i would buy one. how would you ensure that the screws from the dukes to the interface remain solid after multiple switches?

id bump the material up to 7071. Id pay the extra few bucks and its stronger than 6061, just harder to machine

Another solution for thread durability would be to press in some threaded inserts. Its a fairly common thing when dealing with softer materials

[El Chupacabra]

That's pretty sweet.

Is there some way for water to escape, when it gets in the hollow parts of the risers?

[likwid]

id bump the material up to 7071. Id pay the extra few bucks and its stronger than 6061, just harder to machine

Another solution for thread durability would be to press in some threaded inserts. Its a fairly common thing when dealing with softer materials

Pretty sure the bomber subplates are 6061 and have no problems with ripping threads out.

[jondrums]

id bump the material up to 7071. Id pay the extra few bucks and its stronger than 6061, just harder to machine

good idea - 7071 is stronger/harder than 6061, and it machines a little cleaner. More about cost and availability, so we'll see what my shop says when I make the first set

Is there some way for water to escape, when it gets in the hollow parts of the risers?

Good point! It won't be hard to make a few drain reliefs on the bottom face

Pretty sure the bomber subplates are 6061 and have no problems with ripping threads out.

I'll have the threads rolled instead of cut which produces a slightly stronger thread over the life of the part. Also, the screws will engage 7 threads deep (M5x.8 for 5.5mm) which is a good rule of thumb for multiple use threaded holes.

Loctite or some similar releasable threadlocker will be required.

[LightRanger]

After my accident the other day I'm thinking about switching from tele to Dukes/Dynafits on all my skis. If I made that switch, I'd definitely be very interested in these.

[Chowda]

Very Interesting... i'd love to know a price

[Pierre LeCouloir]

Maybe I'm being fussy, but 5 mm of added stack height sounds significant.

[Rob Stokes]

count me in for a few pairs-have been dreaming about this for years.....

i think its key to get the binding as low as possible on the ski.....

and.....do you think you could get some dynafit holes in that thing too? would be ridiculous if you could pull the duke of and slap a dynafit on.......

[Chowda]

How high is the toe? How many threads are in the forward most mounting hole?

[skew]

The simplest solutions are the best and this is pretty damn simple.

[jondrums]

Maybe I'm being fussy, but 5 mm of added stack height sounds significant.

it is significant. as is 100g extra weight per ski. its all a tradeoff - certainly not for everyone. (ps: duke is 32mm stack height + 5mm riser = 37mm. Naxo/freeride = 43mm stack height)

How high is the toe? How many threads are in the forward most mounting hole?

Its 5.3mm thread depth on the front most bolts. Engineering rule of thumb for threads: 3 threads is minimum (a nut normally has 3 threads) and 7 threads is the maximum necessary (only approx 7 threads engage to take the load).

ps - no on the dynafit question unless a bunch of people say they're willing to add 100g and 1deg of ramp to their dynafits. I don't think it fits with that crowd.

[likwid]

Probably a significant price jump, but Ti?

[El Chupacabra]

Is a 5mm riser tall enough such that the stock screws on the Duke/Baron will work (without bottoming out against the topsheet of the ski)?

Or is the idea to replace all the stock screws, and use something else to mount the binding to the riser? (machine screws?)

Another thought from my stream-of-consciousness armchair engineering: or is the idea to use the stock screws from the Duke/Baron to mount the riser to the ski, and then use something else (machine screws) to mount the binding to the riser?

[ArmadaBC]

Sweet, I had my machine shop buddy make me some for a pair of old FR and they work great.

I'm in whenever you get them made, I have a pair of Baron's that could use some ramp angle.

[Conundrum]

Sweet jondrums. Most of the questions people are asking here could be answered by looking at bomber 2nd ski kits. I've been using those for a couple years on three different rigs and have had no problems. In fact, I'm stoked about it. One binding, lots of skis, easy transition with machine screws. Cool.