TR: Longs Peak, Summit to Bumper via The North Face 4.22.09

[Ivana Huckalot]

We left the trailhead at 3:30am and skinned to Chasm View. It was a warm night and the freezeline was just above treeline.
On the way up.


Climbing the Cables Route. The rope is clipped to one of the eyebolts.


Same spot, looking back down. The climbing was pretty easy today, but since we had the rope, we thought we might as well use it.


Sketchball snow anchor.


We did a little control work by trundling this 100+ pound rock off a small cliff.


Booting up.




Almost at the top.


On the summit, 11am. A look down the Homestretch.


Looking south at the Indian Peaks and Eldorka Ski resort.


Starting down off the summit. Since we had our handy rope, I decided to tie myself to a large rock and go test the snow. Everything felt pretty solid.



Skiing down the upper part of the face.


Some great exposure coming down this part.




Coming down through the crux choke. We were able to ski this without doing any kind of rappel or downclimb.


We were able to easily ski all the way out the Boulder Field and to the car without taking our skis off. Longs is a fun mountain to ski and it was a great day to be up there.

Photo taken next day.

[bean]

Awesome. That's a line that's rarely in solid condition like that, and I'm amazed at how much snow is sticking up there this spring. Kick ass work.

[Trainwreck]

I was wondering if that was in. Way to get after it... a second time.

[couloirman]

FKNA! Ill be headed there the day after this storm breaks, who's with me?

[ISL]

Nice line - didn't know that was ever in. Snow looked good too! Quite the anchor.

[alto]

Kick ass aesthetics. Nice work!

[LightRanger]

Very cool. Always fascinated with that peak. Need to get to CO and climb it sometime. I definitely chuckled at your snow anchor. Fine form.

[slaymore_sessions]

Looking south at the Indian Peaks and Eldorka Ski resort.

That's Winter Park. If you're going to harsh on Eldorka at least get it right.
Nice fucking work though. Really nice.

[FFsup]

nice line

[Greg_o]

On your last picture - what happened to the left side of the mountain? It seems to be missing.

Gnar.

[tone capone]

Looks like scrappy skiing, but some fine mountaineering. Good work and thanks for the documentation.

[goldenboy]

Nice, I had a feeling that would be in after the storm. Amazing what an upslope can do for the Sangres and the front range- zero to hero in 24 hours.

[Agave Afish]

Nice work! I was hoping somebody would nail that rare opportunity this week - not surprised it was you! Unfortunately the webcam is too far away now, so I couldn't see your tracks...

cheers

[Ivana Huckalot]

Went back up for another run on the North Face yesterday. It's still skiing very good except for the choke, which is melted out and requires a rappel. It went a little something like this...


A few more...

[RoanMtnMan]

Another lap? Glutton for punishment. Great TR. Had to figure the choke coverage wasn't going to last long. It was looking in rare form on your first trip.

[pdiddy]

So, Ivana, you guys decided not to tackle your original objective?

Probably a good call.

[Ireallyliketoski2]

Double dipping from the same cone, nice work.

[^^^]

Wow, that face melted rather quickly. Kieners was almost good to go this year. One more heavy and wet storm and it would have been primed. I blame the swine flu.

[telelebowski]

Wow. Uber-strong. And killing it on the day selection. Nice work.
Kieners? Double wow. I've climbed it, but never even considered it. I assume the prominent ramp, then rap into the Notch or the lower technical to Broadway? That is a big line. I assume it would be a first?