Photomags... how do you meter?

[Patches]

I'm still trying to get the hang of the metering thing for snow shots... I use Nikon but I assume its the same for Canon.

I've been thinking lately that the easiest way to shoot a bunch of action shots is to switch to manual spot metering, point at the brightest snow and add about 1.6 stops of overexposure. This only takes a couple of seconds; then shoot a quick picture and check the histogram to make sure you're not blowing out the highlights (5 seconds). At this point you should be set for metering, so all you have to worry about is composition and focus. As long as you stay on the same side of the mountain and the cloud covers stays the same the exposure shouldn't need to get fiddled with more than once an hour?

Without putting the camera in manual mode I found the exposure changes as the skiing subject approached the camera and took up more of the frame (as less was occupied by snow). Ditto for following a skier as they go in front of rocks, trees, etc.

Just curious if this is the easiest way or not. Though its more complicated I think it might actually be the simplest (rather than trying to outguess the matrix metering).

Also assuming you have good glass do you shoot at f2.8, or is the focus range too narrow on a fast moving subject (i.e. you wind up with too many missfocused shots). This assumes that you have enough light to shoot at 1/1000 at f5.6 if you wanted to.

[Eldo]

I'm still trying to get the hang of the metering thing for snow shots... I use Nikon but I assume its the same for Canon.

I've been thinking lately that the easiest way to shoot a bunch of action shots is to switch to manual spot metering, point at the brightest snow and add about 1.6 stops of overexposure. This only takes a couple of seconds; then shoot a quick picture and check the histogram to make sure you're not blowing out the highlights (5 seconds). At this point you should be set for metering, so all you have to worry about is composition and focus. As long as you stay on the same side of the mountain and the cloud covers stays the same the exposure shouldn't need to get fiddled with more than once an hour?

Without putting the camera in manual mode I found the exposure changes as the skiing subject approached the camera and took up more of the frame (as less was occupied by snow). Ditto for following a skier as they go in front of rocks, trees, etc.

Just curious if this is the easiest way or not. Though its more complicated I think it might actually be the simplest (rather than trying to outguess the matrix metering).

Also assuming you have good glass do you shoot at f2.8, or is the focus range too narrow on a fast moving subject (i.e. you wind up with too many missfocused shots). This assumes that you have enough light to shoot at 1/1000 at f5.6 if you wanted to.

You've come up with a pretty good system. However I would suggest checking the exposure every time you take the camera out to take pix, not just once an hour etc. Doesn't take much time, so why not?

For your lenses, even the best 2.8 lens will be sharper and have less CA if stopped down one or two stops, provided you have the light to still maintain a fast shutter speed.

Increasing the depth of field by choosing a smaller aperture can help with some focusing errors. (Large DOF is basically how P&S cameras get most pix in focus.) But with an SLR that is probably just masking the real problem - an focus system that's not good enough for the task at hand.

[mtbakerskier]

Spot metering is the WORST method for metering in the snow!

Basically any and all reflective type metering systems (especilly spot) are drastically affected by the excess light reflecting off of the snow. What you ideally need is to purchase a good incident light meter. Or just meter off of your hand, keeping it close to the front of your lense to help minimize excess light reflecting in.

[half-fast]

if its a blue sky day you can set your exposure off the sky-(aiming away from the sun)

[Patches]

Spot metering is the WORST method for metering in the snow!

Basically any and all reflective type metering systems (especilly spot) are drastically affected by the excess light reflecting off of the snow. What you ideally need is to purchase a good incident light meter. Or just meter off of your hand, keeping it close to the front of your lense to help minimize excess light reflecting in.

Do you still shoot in Manual mode (metering once before each sequence)?

Any recommendations on a light meter? Or, since I carry a small white balance card (Whi-Bal brand) could I meter off that instead? Its not 18% grey but it is consistent, and close to 18%.

I thought it would be OK to meter off the snow (since its the brightest thing in the image), as long as you knew that you were going to have to take a test shot or two and tweak the exposure up, using the histogram to check to make sure you aren't clipping.

Also... is that rule of thumb correct, move the histo as far to the right (white/bright end) as you can without clipping it?

Thanks for the help. This is great stuff.

[MOHSHSIHd]

Spot metering is the WORST method for metering in the snow!

Basically any and all reflective type metering systems (especilly spot) are drastically affected by the excess light reflecting off of the snow. What you ideally need is to purchase a good incident light meter. Or just meter off of your hand, keeping it close to the front of your lense to help minimize excess light reflecting in.

Yeah, a spot meter will be way off will all the excess light.


Metering off your hand will be better, and read up on the zone system. Your hand (without a glove) will be Zone VI in normal light, but with all the excess light bouncing everywhere you could maybe even rate your hand at Zone VII, then you can go from there....

Zone V is where you want to set your exposure....

[pechelman]

2nd the metering off your hand

or you can buy a grey card and strap it to your arm with one of those passholder thingies
then you dont have to take off your gloves or account for a 1 zone\ 1 stop difference

regarding zone exposure
its absolutely fine to meter off the snow, so long as you take into account what zone you want the snow exposed for.
youll figure it out eventually, but its not the easiest or most accurate method.

[Eldo]

I thought it would be OK to meter off the snow (since its the brightest thing in the image), as long as you knew that you were going to have to take a test shot or two and tweak the exposure up, using the histogram to check to make sure you aren't clipping...

You are corrrect.

Metering off snow is no different than taking a reading off your hand or the blue sky directly above you or a grey card. You just need to determine the amount of variance in the subject's reflective properties, compared to the 18% grey that a camera meter assumes. For snow it is usually 1.5-1.75 stops.

This is basic exposure stuff taught in photography 101.

[summit]

I usually spot meter *appropriate* snow taking its zone into account