The Exploration of Broken Top

**Yossarian** · 03-20-2004, 08:29 PM

So, as some of you may remember from Trip Reports past, we have this incredible playground here in central Oregon called "Broken Top."

Broken Top sits across the way from Mt. Bachelor, some 5-6 miles to the north of the resort as the crow flies. It is the remains of what was apparently one of the highest peaks in the range at one point, an estimated 12,000 ft, rivaling Mt. Hood - until it blew its top in a Mt. St. Helen's-like explosion. Unlike the Mt. St. Helen's of today, however, time has exposed the underlying resistant rock in the blown-out crater, leaving behind a wild landscape of cliffs, pinnacles, outcroppings, and couloirs.

Over the last year or so, I've begun to explore this backcountry playground, sometimes solo, but often with one of my chief co-conspiritors, Eric. Eric is, to be brief, quite a character, and an incredibly cool guy. When I'm feeling lazy or complacent, it's usually Eric - or the thought of Eric - that gets me out the door and into the mountains. I don't know how he pulls it off, but I swear the guy rides nearly every day, and every day he is just as super stoked to be alive and out there as the time before.

Anyway, last season we had a brilliant mid-winter day up on Broken Top during a sunny dry spell in February. In an epic daylight-to-dusk effort (complete with total bonkage at the end of the 3 hour tour back out), we took down the SW Face.

Now we find ourselves in the midst of a similar pattern. Skies have been clear and sunny, and the temps for the last week and a half have risen into the 40s and 50s, while overnight lows are still down in the 20s and teens. Coverage is good, and the Pacific Northwest corn factory is running a third shift. If you've never skied backcountry PacNW corn in the early summer, you're truly missing out on one of the greatest joys of skiing. There have been times after completing one of the many 4,000+ ft vertical, 35-40 degree pitch descents in the PacNW in the middle of July that I'd argue that it's better than powder. It's that good.

Anyway, after a week and a half of production, the local crop was primed for the harvest. And harvest we did. Last week Matty and I climbed up the gut of Broken Top while Eric climbed and skied a neighboring spur so that he could shoot stills and a little video.

Yesterday I logged on to his website to see a video frame grab from his day out with our mutual friend Kate, who has returned to skiing after a decade-and-a-half long hiatus and is killing it in her first full season skiing since childhood. And when I went to the site, in addition to a cool shot of Kate in the aplenglow, low and behold there was a helmet-cam frame grab from the top of The Hourglass, and then another looking back up from the bottom.

That rat bastard had dropped one of the lines I'd been drooling over since I moved here 3 seasons ago! Never mind that he'd already done it before. Never mind that I was at work anyway. Two days ago he'd hit it, and I wasn't there. Well, I quickly determined to get up there and check it out as soon as possible.

We had made vague plans to ski the SW Face this weekend, as Eric was thinking of skiing in Friday night and sleeping out. (No mention of his recent conquest while we were talking, mind you.) So, assuming that he was already out there last night, I got up at 5am this morning, and hit the road. The light was just coming up, and the sun began to crest the eastern edge of the world as I neared the Bachelor parking lot. Pink and orange hues blended into the receeding darkness, giving me the inspiration to gear up in the cold morning air.

I was the 3rd car in the lot. I knew the temps would climb dramatically as soon as the sun crested the foothills, and the 6 mile skin in was sure to get the blood pumping as well, so I dressed in a t-shirt and shells only, and got on my way. For the first 10 mins, I was fucking freezing. But I wasn't about to stop and throw on my emergency puffy, oh no. The taunting I'd get if phUnk saw me sporting one of those would be simply too much to bear. "Hey Cleeeeeetus, where's your jib rag? Hey Cleeeeeeetus, how's that corked 7 rodeo ballgrab coming?" No, I was determined to let the snot run right down from my nose and on to my overly thin Helly Hanson shell to spite him. And it did. Ran all over the place.

Much to my suprise, 2 hours later I was at the base of climb itself, wearing a sleeveless t-shirt and with my pants unzipped at the sides. Not that my clothing suprised me - I'd put them on by myself today - but rather, that I'd managed to cover the distance that quickly. It was 8:30am. I looked around for Eric as I passed his usual bivy spots, but didn't see or hear him. So I climbed, skinning determinedly to a point far higher than was probably efficient, as a direct result of having chosen to leave my crampons at home, and wanting to have something with metal edges to grab onto the as-yet unsoftened snow. My braces wouldn't have cut it, so the skis stayed on. My approach speed had damned me in this regard - an hour later and I would have been bootpacking.

I determined to go slower to allow for more warming, but found it hard to do, as I was already flailing around mightily, much to the delight of the local snafflehound (squirrel) population. Blam! Sniper! I grinned to myself as I imagined that snaffle's little smirking face smeared all over that guy's pretty little climbing boots. Hey wait, what guy? Dammit, there was someone else up there with me. And he was ahead of me. I determined to stop flailing as much, and pick up the pace. An hour and a half later, I was nearing the top, and the climber had dissapeared from sight, having already summitted and begun his descent. Magnanimous fucking show-off.

I finished the climb, topping out some 4 hours after I had begun. It was 10:30am, and Eric was nowhere in sight. I sat down to dry out my skins and eat some processed, sliced, and packaged dead cow, tucked between two factory manufactured grain derivatives, greased with a white substance expressely designed by The Man to give me heart attacks at an early age, all while starting out at the vast beauty of the central Oregon landscape.

Below me and to the right was the SW Face, the proposed route for the day. But just over that little knob there to the left and down was the Hourglass. I'd never done it before, and that pretentious ass had done it again without me two days ago. And he was nowhere in sight. The Hourglass was east facing after all, and I could do it before it got too late and then do another lap with Eric to hit the SW Face if he were down there in the bowl...

20 mins later I was gearing up above the offending timepiece. 10 minutes beyond that, and I was grinning like an idiot, carving massive turns in the perfect corn, spraying BB-sized grains of snow behind me as I ran out the apron. With the exception of some rather annoying patches of thinly wind-deposited transport, it was sublime. A little move to get in, steep but not too steep at the top, perfect pitch through the middle as it narrowed, fast through the finish, and smooth as a 10-year-old soccer player's ass. Err... Did I say that in my outloud voice?

I turned to look back up at my handiwork...and spotted Eric, bootpacking up the adjacent slope. I slowed, and shouted to him. He turned, and then everything happened in slow motion. No, wait, no it didn't. He lost his footing and before I knew what was happening, had rocketed down 20 yards through the snow before self-arresting. Uh...sorry dood.

"You okay man?" I shouted over, traversing towards him.

"Fuck. Fucking FUCK!"

One ski had been dropped at the apex, the other had slid down most of the way to him.

"FUUCK."

I neared, still a bit below where he'd ended up.

"You okay?"

"Fine. Annoyed, but fine. Well, except that I just sliced my finger entirely open on my edge, and I'm bleeding profusely. And I have no skin left on my elbows or my knees." Like me, Eric had been climbing in a t-shirt. Unlike me, he also been climbing in shorts. Shorts that I'd wished I had at the time. Corn can be brutal in a fall.

After prescribing and self-administering a bit of medicine for his various ailments, we picked up the pieces and clicked back in for the skin out to his snomo. Today was not his day to ski, apparently. We cruised back to the wilderness boundary, eyeballing and discussing the various lines we wanted to hit in the cirque above, and eventually arrived back at the sled. He graciously offered to tow me out, saving me from having to make the return 6 mile journey after a solid day of work.

He dropped me off near the nordic center, right in front of a family of 5, out for a pleasant little weekend snowshoe, looking for all the world like a bat out of hell - roaring up in his full face helmet, blood dripping from his finger, skin missing from his arms, evil grin plastered to his face. We said our goodbyes, and then I threw my helmet off, shaking my ass-long golden hair out for the benefit of the family. My hair, it is perfect, no?

45 minutes later, and I strolled out of the Taj back in town, loaded with as much Indian food as can be packed into a $4.95 carry-out box. Let me tell you, it's a lot. Trust me, my ass stinks worse than my cat's right now, and I ate less than half of the box. That stuff is going to last for days!

Now I sit here at Timmy's house, where I'm taking care of his dogs while he and his special lady friend are touring in the Wallowas. How cool is that? Of me, I mean. Well, I guess I'll just have to go check up on his hot tub and make sure it's working correctly. Maybe have one of these Black Butte Porters while I'm at it too, to make sure they haven't spoiled.

Catch you later, perhaps.
Cletus

**Yossarian** · 03-20-2004, 08:31 PM

Oh yeah, here's Broken Top, with many of the popular lines listed. The unknown line at the right has been proposed for tomorrow's activity, but we'll see.

http://www.tetongravity.com/usergall...enTopLines.jpg

**Tyrone Shoelaces** · 03-20-2004, 08:39 PM

Yes.

Yes, you did say that in your outloud voice.

**Yossarian** · 03-20-2004, 08:46 PM

Would it be less offensive if I made him a little bit older?
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Er, I meant "her." Make her a little older. Uhhh, I'd like to see my lawyer now officer.

**splat** · 03-20-2004, 08:49 PM

That's gotta be a nice one, GC. I don't think anyone who's ever seen it can't imagine anything but going there firsthand.
>Cool TR<

**meatdrink9** · 03-20-2004, 09:25 PM

Nice TR.

"...worse than a cats ass." That's bad.

**iskibc** · 03-20-2004, 09:30 PM

nice report mang. That playground definitely makes my mouth water. Sweet.

**powstash** · 03-20-2004, 10:33 PM

I'm headed to Oregon in early June for my little sister's graduation from college. Thinking I would hit Adams for a climb/ski but I may have to add broken top to my list. Is there ample snow in June for some good 1000'+ lines?

Care for a tag along in June?

**Yossarian** · 03-20-2004, 10:59 PM

Early June is PRIME. Absolutely the best time here for summer skiing (well, if you ignore May and July, heh heh).

There's a boatload of stuff you can do around here then. All of these lines on BT are still in, and are in fact made easier by the opening of the Cascade Lakes Highway. Takes a few miles and a couple hours off the day. You can also do a combo of the West Face of Broken Top (runs off the top of the summit to the west, out of sight) and South Sister, just to the west. West Face of BT is prolly 2,500 ft, south side of South Sister is a good 4,000 ft ride.

Want to do something burly, do North Sister. Or for a marathon, traverse the 3 sisters in a day. Man, there's just no end to the list.

Still, the crown jewel of the OR and southern WA Cascades is still the SW Chutes on Adams. 6,000 vertical feet, 4,000 of which is at about 37 degrees, non-stop. June is pretty early though - the road might not be clear to the main trailhead yet. However, I actually prefer it that way - I recommend a direct line in from Morrison Creek. It's a day and a half that way, but a much nicer ski.

Sometime in May, give me a shout and I'll fill your ear with beta. If I'm still in the area when you're here (job uncertainty), I'd love to join you.

**rbtree** · 03-20-2004, 11:44 PM

Oh my, GC, your story telling is simply fantabulous!!!
I've been enjoying the ski setup! Too bad, I'm so old, and danged busy at work. My new buds have simply been killing it this year, and I've yet to get out with them. Several first descents....up to 60 degree lines... these young crazies, I tell ya!!
http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/ReidHW/ReidHW.html
http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/.../Klawatti.html
http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/...r/Buckner.html
http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/...cticChair.html

Some suspect snow turned them away from a new line on Mt Stuart, one of the gnarliest ice climbs in the cascades. 12 miles in and out......aw heck, they need exercise, eh?

**shamrockpow** · 03-21-2004, 12:12 AM

Fricking sweet TR! I've been getting a little sick of corn snow, but you got me motivated now. Maybe a hike up the Y sometime next week? Box Elder would be sweet also, but I'd have to get motivated for a 5 am start. Any Utah mags down???

**splat** · 03-21-2004, 01:31 AM

rbtree - that's some great stuff!

**char** · 03-21-2004, 01:37 AM

Added to the list. No time for that one this year, but Adams and St Helens will be my playground this summer. Living less than 30 mins from Climbers Bivouac this summer. Hour to an hour and a half to the Adams trailhead.

Looks sick, Yo.

**char** · 03-21-2004, 01:40 AM

Originally posted by rbtree
Oh my, GC, your story telling is simply fantabulous!!!
I've been enjoying the ski setup! Too bad, I'm so old, and danged busy at work. My new buds have simply been killing it this year, and I've yet to get out with them. Several first descents....up to 60 degree lines... these young crazies, I tell ya!!
http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/ReidHW/ReidHW.html
http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/.../Klawatti.html
http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/...r/Buckner.html
http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/...cticChair.html

Some suspect snow turned them away from a new line on Mt Stuart, one of the gnarliest ice climbs in the cascades. 12 miles in and out......aw heck, they need exercise, eh?

Yeah, I've been checking out that site for a few weeks now, those guys are getting after it. I'm asusming these are the same dudes that some guy in Pro Mountain Sports told me about. My eyes bugged out when he started mentioning lines they were skiing.

**Mulletizer** · 03-21-2004, 06:02 AM

Cleetus: Reading that was a deeply enjoyable way to spend the time whilst I drink my Sunday coffee at mid-day. Thank you.

**Schralper** · 03-21-2004, 10:30 AM

Without peeps like Cletus and me who would keep the hardcore stoke goin around here, in central OR?

Ah yes me and slipping.
It aint no fun to slide down corn on your knees and elbow. Nice ice rash. Plus slicing my finger wide open on an edge. D'oh! That'll teach me to go out w/o my whippet. Freakin 30 deg pitch!

Yep BT rocks! More so when you dont chew yourself up. The hourglass line IS way fun, even solo. Just gotta suck it up a lil before dropping in. Not scary steep just focused steep, mostly cuz of the exposure below you. Next time I wanna air into it. Right Cletus?
Yea!

**rbtree** · 03-21-2004, 01:13 PM

Originally posted by char
Yeah, I've been checking out that site for a few weeks now, those guys are getting after it. I'm asusming these are the same dudes that some guy in Pro Mountain Sports told me about. My eyes bugged out when he started mentioning lines they were skiing.

My old bud Jim Nelson?

I sure hope I can get out with them, there's lots of plums left to harvest.

But I don't think I'd want to have been on the NE Face of Mt Fury, possibly the gnarliest line they've done.
http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/...FuryRoutes.jpg

Here's a shot of telemaniac Jason Hummel going smaller than the 90 feet he's rumored to have dropped.

**Chronic** · 03-21-2004, 03:01 PM

Awesome and very well written TR. Must get up to Adams... soon...

**Game Over** · 03-21-2004, 08:45 PM

oops...

**Game Over** · 03-21-2004, 08:51 PM

nice dood.

but, broken top never blew...according to "fire and ice" it eroded very slowley and collapsed on itself.

anybody up for this?

Blurred Elevens · 03-21-2004, 08:57 PM

I'd like to try the yellow and magenta routes.

http://www.tetongravity.com/usergall...FuryRoutes.JPG

**Platinum Pete** · 03-22-2004, 01:10 AM

Cletus, way to get it. I'd love to come down and harvest the corn some time. Which hut in the Wallowas did Timmy go to? I just came out of Wing Ridge today and a bunch of Eugeners were moving in.

Skye is so amazing. That guy is definitely pushing limits and having a great time. Everytime I hit is site he has done something rad. He never wastes an opportunity, either; the conditions are always good for something.

**Yossarian** · 03-22-2004, 08:23 AM

rbtree, some of that stuff is insano! I love it.
Yowsas, burly burly burly.

We didn't end up going back out to BT yesterday, spent the morning lapping Summit at Bachy, mmmm, backside corn turns..mmm...and then laps in the park in the early afternoon which was amusing.

First run was the best, interestingly. A small japan on the first hit, grease the little funbox, then a decent toxic into a safety on the hip, followed by a big mute and finishing with a gorilla steezy straight air off the monster hit at the bottom. For me, a few grabs in a row is as good as it gets.

After that, it was all downhill.

But hey, summer snow is made for crashing, right?

Pete, not sure. I imagine Roger's huts at Wing, because Timmy took an Avy 1 there recently, but perhaps not. Variety is the spice of life, or so they say.

**Schralper** · 03-22-2004, 09:52 AM

Originally posted by Platinum Pete
Skye is so amazing. That guy is definitely pushing limits and having a great time. Everytime I hit is site he has done something rad. He never wastes an opportunity, either; the conditions are always good for something. [/B]

WTF? Skye Pinnick?, of Rage films?
So what does he have to do w/ this thread? Where did that come from?
Yeah he lives here in Bend but so what? Nice guy no doubt but so?

There aint no one 'cept Cletus and I schralpin these lines. Pussies!