Results 1 to 10 of 10
03-17-2004, 11:19 PM #1
Sugar Daddy/Fritschi binding mount???
Its been a few years since I worked in the shop. I'm going to bastardize Sugar Daddy's and get rid of the plate. My question is, 3.5 or 4.1 drill bit and why? Tap necesary? If so, why? Can I get away without tapping the holes because homey doesn't have a tap?
Other suggestions? I'm thinking about a cutting board (10mm?)rear riser into the stock holes, and mounting the toe straight into the ski with just the standard Fritschi toe riser? Need to get a ruler out and see if this will make the the heal too high, but this is my current concept.
I'm pretty convinced the ski is strong enough and that the holes the plate are screwed into aren't reinforced.
Anyone have a Freeride front riser piece they aren't using?
Last edited by comish; 03-17-2004 at 11:36 PM.He who has the most fun wins!
03-18-2004, 09:42 AM #2Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
if you wait a day ill talk to my buddy who did this exact thing.
get a ruler and make sure the toe piece will fit in the groove.
I am pretty certain that he had to cut some grooves into the topsheet to get the toe piece WITHOUT the riser to fit.
I am also pretty sure he blew the toepeice screws or flat out broke the ski. SOmething negative for sure.
Ill try and reach him tonite, but tread VERY carefully.
03-18-2004, 09:57 AM #3
A 10mm riser at the back and nothing at the front would give crazy ramp. I think that most alpine bindings only have about 3-5mm ramp. Take off the toe shim and that's going to be even worse.
You might talk to T-P - see if they did a shim for Freerides and SDs or consider making a full shim.
03-18-2004, 10:02 AM #4
TP did make a shim for the atomics+freerides, I'm almost certain of it.Thrutchworthy Production Services
03-18-2004, 10:04 AM #5
I've kind of done this FR to SG mount.
Overall it works fine to mount the bindings right to the ski, no secondary plate.
Use a 3.5 * 9 4.1 is for metal top sheets and then tap to start the holes.
The main problem is that the beta rib runs from tip to tail and is at a lower height than the rest of the top sheet so if your screw holes are side by side (like the 4 toe holes) it is fine as they bridge the beta rib, For the heel it is 3 holes and the middle one is right in the beta rib. 1) the screw will have very little to bit into and 2) you might need a differnt lenght of screw.
The mount that I did was remonving the plate and mounting a S912ti demo to the ski, all the screws are paired across the beta rib so it was just fine, I had to grind away a few bits of binding plastic to make it all fit, but just cosmetec bits, nothing inportant.
This SD has been used for 2 weeks by a guide that is 6'5' and 240# and is just fine
03-18-2004, 02:04 PM #6
TP is out of the material for the shim. Tried that one.
I agree that 10mm at the back and nothing at the front is too much, hence why I was thinking of adding the freeride front to it. I'm just using the DII Fritschi, so if I can find a freeride front riser that might help? Anyone know the height of the fritschi front riser? I might end up putting a small riser on the front to get closer to the 3-5mm ramp angle.
I have two thoughts on the riser in the rear. I want to get closer to the 3-5mm ramp angle of an alpine binder, plus the issue that mtn. lion mentioned with the beta rib. The center screw for the Fritschi won't have much to sink into. So that is why I was thinking of screwing into the stock holes with a riser.
Mtn Lion, you mention using both a 3.5 and 4.1, I'm a bit confused by that, which one? I only have a 3.5, is this going to be a major problem or do I need to get a 4.1 * 9. It does look like the SD has metal in the top sheet which is why I think I might need a 4.1.
Thanks all for the input. When trying something a little different its always great to have input.
Cutting board good enough for a material?He who has the most fun wins!
03-18-2004, 03:07 PM #7
use a 3.5 with the SD
you use a 4.1 with a ski that has a metal top sheet and the sugar does not
The freeride toe shim is 2mm
cutting board should work, but check it regularly for cracks and bends.
Vist also makes plates and might be able to help
03-19-2004, 02:10 PM #8
Bump for Jiffy's friends info.
Thanks Mnt. Lion for the info!He who has the most fun wins!
03-19-2004, 02:24 PM #9Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
didnt get hold of him, he slipped out to Sun Valley before he got my message.
i know that whatever he did, it was alittle bit of a hack job.
so im not surprised, nor was he, that they failed.
so just dont hackjob it up.
03-21-2004, 12:57 PM #10
Ok, slightly revised plan. What do you think is the minimum height for a front riser? I'm planning to screw the front one into the original holes, then have holes for the fritschi's in the riser, but want to have maybe a 7mm front and 10mm rear to get about 3mm ramp angle. How much riser do I need to make sure the Fritschi screws stay in?
I'm also thinking then I can have two sets of holes in the riser. One Soli/Look and the other Fritschi. Then I can really test to see if there is a difference in the skiing feel of the fritschi vs alpine binders.He who has the most fun wins!