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  1. #1
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    Tyrolia binding adjustments.

    I just picked up a pair of Monster 72 with railflex and a pair of Monster 82 with mojo 15. Looking for adjustment info, forward pressure in the heel and if the toe needs any.

    Appreciate any assistance.
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  2. #2
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    Here is what I was told about the forward pressure on some other Tyrolia bindings (SP 130 demos).
    When you click the boot into the binding, the metal tabs at the back of the heel piece should be about halfway out over the lined metal piece underneath the tabs when the forward pressure is correct. I'm not sure if the Railflex/Mojo 15 use the same type of heel adjustment. Hopefully some shop tech types can chime in on this.

  3. #3
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    Mojo 15 is in the scribe line area. Oftentimes, it won't go directly in the middle; but set it as close to the center as you can. No toe adjustments. I don't deal with the railflex bindings so I can't help you there.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vets View Post
    When you click the boot into the binding, the metal tabs at the back of the heel piece should be about halfway out over the lined metal piece underneath the tabs when the forward pressure is correct.
    Not the metal tab itself but the back of the heel piece where the tab is. That is what should be between the scribed marks when the boot is clicked in.

    With the railflex bindings, forward pressure is adjusted the same way as long as you have bootsole length adjusted correctly on the rail underneath the toe/heel pieces.
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  5. #5
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    What they said. Tyrolias are very sensitive to forward pressure, and will prerelease at every opportunity if you don't have enough.

    One day when I switched ski boots (long story) I came out of mine about six times on one run...every time I set an edge, my ski would fly off. It felt like a DIN of 1.5 despite being set at 7.5. At the bottom I gave them more forward pressure, and I've had no problems since.

  6. #6
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    The manual is linked here, post 3.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dug View Post
    Not the metal tab itself but the back of the heel piece where the tab is. That is what should be between the scribed marks when the boot is clicked in.
    I was just tinkering with a pair tonight - the smallest I can get it to adjust I am just barely on the first scribe line. The manual says it just has to be within the scribed line area, but it sounds like I still might be asking for trouble?

    I'll take 2 pairs up tomorrow to be safe...

  8. #8
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    re: Dug, AlpineDad's Manual, Spat's prerelease statement....

    On my first time out on Railflex IIs last week, I blew out of the ski four times. The first time was on a friggin blue groomer when some skier pack snow started to give me jitterbug legs and the skis just popped off my toe. Next run I lost em atop a double-black, which could have had consequences. Took them to the demo shop, the guy tinkered with em and set me on my way. Hour later I lost em atop the same double black and slid a good 30-50 yards before i managed to hook myself on a sapling to stop. They blew off once later just for kicks. Since I'd rather not die next time I ski these, some help would be appreciated...

    After some tinkering, here is where I am at now: I couldn't get the forward pressure to sit right with the rail set to my boot length (355mm), but I have been able to extend the rail ever so slightly (to about 356.5mm) and now I can get the forward pressure more or less right- the scribed metal tab has about 2/3 of it sticking out past the end of the plastic (which I assume is the somewhat hard-to-find "indicator" mentioned in the manual), on scribe line 2.5. Is this right?

    other dimensions that may be useful: BSL 355mm, Height/weight: 6'5, 220, DIN @9.5
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    Quote Originally Posted by L7 View Post
    Seems a pretty easy concept... it would serve you well.

  9. #9
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    With this binding, it's better to go with more pressure than less when you're playing within the scribe lines. With the railflex, you have a bit more play because you can fine tune with the rails, as I understand that you've done already.

    When playing with the heel and toe rails though, setting them for a larger BSL than what your boot actually has would result in less forward pressure so I don't know how that would help. Maybe I've misunderstood you. Anyway, according to your description, your forward pressure sounds right. I would probably tweak the rail again so you're sitting with less of the metal tab behind the housing. You could shorten either the heel or toe rail by one notch to do this.

    The last thing I would look at is your DIN. You're pretty much going with the chart which is fine. But if your pressure is set correctly, then I would start bumping the DIN up, even a whole digit if you're still Markering as badly as you say.

    One thing to point out is that the non-race Tyrolias develop play fairly fast because of all the plastic. At your size, it's an eventual certainty. Stick your foot in your boot, stick it in the binding/ski and have someone else step on the ski to prevent it from moving. You'll notice if you have play when you rock side-to-side because the toe of your boot will be moving a lot under a mostly stationary toe piece.
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  10. #10
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    Didn't know you were a sasquatch. You're right at the outer limits of the standard RF band (max 360). Do you have the special sasquatch band for the Railflexes?
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  11. #11
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    re: dug, AD

    dug: it was counter-intuitive to expand the railflex to get the forward pressure to work right, I agree. But I couldn't get the forward pressure set up correctly with the rail set to 355mm. When I moved it out a touch, it did work. Maybe I will try and tighten the rail to 353 or so and see if that works. I could also crank the DIN I guess, but as a last resort.

    AD: the handle and the byline don't lie (355mm of soul = sole). I don't have the sasquatch rail... these skis (9thward 187s) came mounted from OftPiste with the standard rail, and since it goes to 360mm, i figured it could handle my 355m monster feets.

    The worst part is that even if I get a tech talk consensus and get the binders into the agreed upon good position, I'm still not going to trust the clamps until they prove themselves to me- and if you can't trust 'em, you ski scared, which will probably lead to more ejections. vicious cycle. I'm considering just swapping these for a static binding I know I can trust (look, solly, etc), but that would be a third drill, which is too bad.
    bigf00ts code of Jong: helping where I can, staying quiet where I can't.

    Quote Originally Posted by L7 View Post
    Seems a pretty easy concept... it would serve you well.

  12. #12
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    follow up for dug:
    when it was at 355mm, I was concerned with over-forward pressure. Is that a risk? or am I basically fine as long as the indicator is somewhere along the scribed tab? This is my first time working on such a nuanced binding, so it's certainly causing me more than a few headaches.
    bigf00ts code of Jong: helping where I can, staying quiet where I can't.

    Quote Originally Posted by L7 View Post
    Seems a pretty easy concept... it would serve you well.

  13. #13
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    at your size id get the railflex rfd 14

    level nine sports in slc usually has them cheap,like $130

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigf00t View Post
    follow up for dug:
    when it was at 355mm, I was concerned with over-forward pressure. Is that a risk? or am I basically fine as long as the indicator is somewhere along the scribed tab? This is my first time working on such a nuanced binding, so it's certainly causing me more than a few headaches.
    I wouldn't be concerned with too much pressure as long as you aren't past the last scribe mark. Ive skiied on several tyrolias with them set there with no problems releasing.
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  15. #15
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    still confused what is indicating pointer and what is scribed area

    Here is what i think is right, but looking at the bindings in can't tell whats the indicating pointer and what is the scribbed area. there are tiny scribbed lines on the lifting tab and more spaced out scribbed lines on the metal piece below. but can anyone tell me if this looks right?







    Here is what the manual says:

    http://www.puszczka.com/~andy/images...al.english.pdf


    6. Forward pressure
    Check to make sure the boot meets international
    standards and is not damaged.
    Place the boot in the binding and close it. The
    indicating pointer should rest within the scribed
    area (pict 9) if not, you have to adjust the forward
    pressure.
    DON’T OPEN THE LENGTH ADJUSTMENT LOCK
    AS LONG AS A SKI BOOT IS FIXED IN THE
    BINDING.
    Place the ski boot in the open binding and rest
    the boot heel on the brake treadle. Lift the length
    adjustment lock (2) with a screwdriver and slide
    the heel until the heel cup just touches the boot.
    Lock the length adjustment by pushing it down.
    Latch the boot in the binding and check forward
    pressure again. The toe pincers should not be
    pressed open and the indicating pointer should
    rest within the scribed area (pict 9).
    Last edited by kokomas; 12-12-2009 at 11:42 AM.
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  16. #16
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    The "indicator pointer" is really just the back edge of the heel housing (at least that's how I understand it). So the back edge should be somewhere in the middle of the scribed lines on the adjustment tab. It looks like you're OK with what you've got. Did you follow the instructions when you setup the boot length? As long as you set the binding so that you can still just barely get the boot in there you're usually good with any manufacturer's binding. You really only get into trouble when you're lacking forward pressure (with pre-releases). It's usually pretty hard to setup too much forward pressure since you still have to be able to get your boots in there

  17. #17
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    I am going to go out on a limb, and say there is not enough forward pressure. I am going off of memory. Move the tab forward, one notch and see if it gets more to the middle of the scribes..It looks to me like it is on the edge of too loose..It has five or six lines
    (I think), and you would preferably want to be in the middle of those.. Look at the bottom pic, the top is pulled in enough to see the O on the bottom piece..Yours are at the same length.

    Side note. On my Tyrolia's, when they are set right it almost looks like it is too small to fit your boot, but when you put the boot in, your tab contracts to the middle of your scribes, and you are golden.
    Keep moving your tab up one notch at a time until that sucker starts moving inwards..The first time I set mine up, I was 3 or 4 notches too long, because I thought the 2 pieces should look like your top pic.

  18. #18
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    I agree with LeeC and that's why I said it was OK, not great. You're just barely within the correct zone, but if you can move the tab forward and still get your boots in then they were set too loose (not enough forward pressure). That's why I asked if you had followed the instructions and checked that you can barely get your boot in the binding - the way it should be.

  19. #19
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    so it seems like if anything i have too little forward pressure? they are my wifes skis, she had a slow motion twisting fall and stayed in the bindings, twisting her knee. din is 4, what she always uses. trying to figure out if i messed up by putting her on these as shown above, but it seems like according to you guys if anything she'd be prone to pre-release where i have them
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  20. #20
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    The way your setup is, would be a pre-release situation..What I did, was set my bindings up, and took them to a shop, and gave the dude 20.00 to check all mine..The Tyrolias were the only ones wrong, and I did what I said in the above post..Which is also how I learned, because I watched him.The Tab should be sucked in more. Here are some pictures to show

    First pic, are how they look without boots in.


    Adjusted bindings with boots in

    Only 2 scribes left out, and right in the middle of the scribes on the bottom.
    Like I said above when set correctly, you think your boots won't fit, but when you put them in you will see the rear portion will move backward to accommodate your boot, then spring back in with the right pressure..If it does not show what I have..Keep moving up a notch till it does.

    Hope you get it. Note the 0 is in line with the rear of the binding

    BTW, I have had no pre-releases.


    Lee
    Last edited by LeeC; 12-13-2009 at 10:33 PM.

  21. #21
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    you are the man, thanks for taking the time to put this up!
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  22. #22
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    Any chance LeeC can repost the pics of that have been removed by photobucket? I need to adjust my tyrolias for new boots I bought yesterday. I thought I had the forward pressure set correctly but after reading this thread, I'm not so sure.

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