The chainsaw thread...

**Meadow Skipper** · 10-21-2014, 09:48 PM

Oops, I missed that part of your reply about sharpening, XXX-er.

**TacocaT** · 10-21-2014, 10:57 PM

I typed up a long response then realized meadow skipper already said pretty much the same things. So do what he said.

Anyway, with practice you can get really good with no file guide in the field. I find if you do little touch ups as you go about your work it is easier to keep angles correct. Don't wait until it starts to cut poorly to sharpen. After grubby dirty work I still use a guide and a bench to really set it up right.

**char** · 10-22-2014, 07:40 AM

All you ever wanted to know about how chainsaw chain works and how to sharpen it:

http://www.madsens1.com/muu_barchain.htm

They also have an entire section on saw maintenance.

**bodywhomper** · 01-10-2015, 01:17 PM

I have a stihl ms270 that I bought at a pawn shop at the beginning of the summer (for a good price) after we bought our house. my first saw. it wasn't well maintained by the previous owner and i'm slowly getting it working better while also using it on some tree thinning and bucking projects at home. it'll be getting more use in the preserves and NF starting this spring/summer. current maintenance projects: figure out the chain oil leak (leaks when idling), generally clean it up, and deal with the chain. the chain is pretty dull. is there a way to tell if it's been run into the dirt? does it make sense to have two new chains to rotate between and sharpen and use my current chain as a dirt chain (if i can tell that it's been run in the dirt)?

i'm considering a second saw. i recently used a friends small light saw, an older echo climbing saw i think, while helping him buck and trim at his place. it was pretty nice using a light saw. my property has a good amount of manzanita (burns great!) and small cedars and pines that i intend to clear/thin. while working on some manzanita with my ms270 last weekend, i realized how the job would be a lot easier and faster if i had my friend's small and light saw. the ms150 seems pretty sweet, but the $500 tag makes my brain explode a little bit. anybody have other recommendations?

cheers

**char** · 01-10-2015, 01:26 PM

Originally Posted by bodywhomper

I have a stihl ms270 that I bought at a pawn shop at the beginning of the summer (for a good price) after we bought our house. my first saw. it wasn't well maintained by the previous owner and i'm slowly getting it working better while also using it on some tree thinning and bucking projects at home. it'll be getting more use in the preserves and NF starting this spring/summer. current maintenance projects: figure out the chain oil leak (leaks when idling), generally clean it up, and deal with the chain. the chain is pretty dull. is there a way to tell if it's been run into the dirt? does it make sense to have two new chains to rotate between and sharpen and use my current chain as a dirt chain (if i can tell that it's been run in the dirt)?

i'm considering a second saw. i recently used a friends small light saw, an older echo climbing saw i think, while helping him buck and trim at his place. it was pretty nice using a light saw. my property has a good amount of manzanita (burns great!) and small cedars and pines that i intend to clear/thin. while working on some manzanita with my ms270 last weekend, i realized how the job would be a lot easier and faster if i had my friend's small and light saw. the ms150 seems pretty sweet, but the $500 tag makes my brain explode a little bit. anybody have other recommendations?

cheers

ms270 shop manual: http://www.thisoldshed.com/Stihl/PDF...6_01_01_01.pdf

ms270 is a light chainsaw by most standards. ms 150 is designed to be used in a tree by professional tree climbers. Maybe look at the ms170 (8 pounds)? I am guessing that a sharp chain on the 270 will change your mind regarding how fast the job will go, makes a huge difference.

Might try turning down the oil pump if you have it wide open. Otherwise, unless oil is pouring out of the thing and you are going through oil faster than gas probably ins't worth a ton of effort to fix.

**XXX-er** · 01-10-2015, 01:49 PM

Its pretty safe to just assume the chain has been run into the dirt, get a guide and spend some time getting that neglected chain sharpened up will make a huge difference and chain oil is cheap

my saw cost 650 and all the safety gear was almost as much again but i like the bestest & safest

**riser4** · 01-10-2015, 02:08 PM

I have an 0.17. I guess it is the older version of the MS170. It is nice and light. It works well for trimming, and bucking up stuff that blows down. It is light enough to use overhead while standing on a ladder, not that anybody ever does that. I inherited it from my dad. When he bought it he must have known he was slowing down even though he hadn't been diagnosed with Parkinson's yet. It was perfect for him. Even if some asshole hadn't stolen his previous saw he said he still would have eventually purchased this one.

The only issue I am having now is the bar has seized up. The oiler got gummed up and while it wasn't oiling it must have toasted the internals. I can free it with a hammer and screwdriver but it means I have to take off the chain. Once freed it works for the duration of the session but will seize up again after sitting for a few months. The chain appears to be oiling so I think it is permanent damage to the bar.

**bodywhomper** · 01-10-2015, 02:08 PM

thanks. i downloaded the manual already. it's great that manual for older tools are online (found genie and chop saw manuals online, too!). i just ID'ed the chain oil problem a few days ago while adjusting the carburetor, some direction about where to start the problem solving is much appreciated.

i just looked, my saw has a 20" bar on it. it is spec'ed for 16"-20" bar. maybe the combo of a sharp chain and a shorter bar would make a difference? it seems that two bar sizes (and sharp chains) would be pretty nice. my little issue has been related to limbing the manzanita (such a beautiful wood), which grow pretty crazy compared to the pines, cedars, and oaks that i've worked on.... i'll keep it simple (and cheaper) for now and start with a sharp chain. there are several dead and dry manzanita tripping distance from the house.

cheers

**Rideski** · 05-12-2015, 10:43 PM

Didn't know where the cutting wood thread is so I figured I would drop this here.
Free wood in CO.
http://denver.craigslist.org/for/5012674998.html

**bodywhomper** · 06-21-2015, 02:53 AM

i've been doing some thinning on our little property. summer's here, everything is pretty dry. recently, my neighbor expressed general concern about using a chainsaw this summer because of the amount of buckshot he's found when using his chainsaw while cutting down and bucking trees on his property over the past few years. the concern, of course, is starting a wildfire. about a month ago, i encountered a rock on a manzanita that i was cutting down and got some sparks.

Other than not using the chainsaw, what are some good ways to mitigate this potential problem? attend to the RH (is there a good cut-off of when to stop working)? keep a hose and shovel very close by? if i see a spark, stop and inspect with hose in hand (if it's safe in the process of felling the tree)? what else?

tia

**Meadow Skipper** · 06-21-2015, 07:58 AM

Originally Posted by bodywhomper

i've been doing some thinning on our little property. summer's here, everything is pretty dry. recently, my neighbor expressed general concern about using a chainsaw this summer because of the amount of buckshot he's found when using his chainsaw while cutting down and bucking trees on his property over the past few years. the concern, of course, is starting a wildfire. about a month ago, i encountered a rock on a manzanita that i was cutting down and got some sparks.

Other than not using the chainsaw, what are some good ways to mitigate this potential problem? attend to the RH (is there a good cut-off of when to stop working)? keep a hose and shovel very close by? if i see a spark, stop and inspect with hose in hand (if it's safe in the process of felling the tree)? what else?

tia

Yeah other than doing your cutting during the wet season, having suppression tools (shovel, dirt, water) on hand and working in the cool times of the day (depending on local conditions, knocking off by 10 am and maybe starting around 7 pm) and keeping your eyes open and being aware are your best bets.

**Harvey44** · 06-21-2015, 09:28 AM

Just got this for Father's Day, pretty pumped.

**BCMtnHound** · 06-21-2015, 09:43 AM

Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

Yeah other than doing your cutting during the wet season, having suppression tools (shovel, dirt, water) on hand and working in the cool times of the day (depending on local conditions, knocking off by 10 am and maybe starting around 7 pm) and keeping your eyes open and being aware are your best bets.

In addition to early shift, try and save time for an hour fire watch after you finish. Those little sparks can smoulder undetected for a bit.

Are local fire danger reports publicly available from the various state wildfire authorities? BC's are available publicly here: http://bcwildfire.ca/Weather/danger.htm. Any more than 3 days of high (4) and it's early shift, and 3 days of extreme (5) and industrial activities in the woods are to cease.

**Meadow Skipper** · 06-21-2015, 09:52 AM

Originally Posted by BCMountainHound

In addition to early shift, try and save time for an hour fire watch after you finish. Those little sparks can smoulder undetected for a bit.

Are local fire danger reports publicly available from the various state wildfire authorities? BC's are available publicly here: http://bcwildfire.ca/Weather/danger.htm. Any more than 3 days of high (4) and it's early shift, and 3 days of extreme (5) and industrial activities in the woods are to cease.

Really good points. There is almost certainly a site for the current area fire danger for each part of California.

Edit: quick google on current California local fire danger brought this one up:
http://www.cefa.dri.edu/HourlyFD/

**bodywhomper** · 06-21-2015, 11:15 AM

Harvey, thats a pretty awesome fathers day gift!

Thanks for the link to the hourly danger rating. Im pretty close to two stations, one rated this morning at "extreme" (5) and one at "high" (3). Also, saving an hour or so to keep an eye out after cutting is good advice.

**Jethro** · 06-21-2015, 05:36 PM

Originally Posted by bodywhomper

i've been doing some thinning on our little property. summer's here, everything is pretty dry. recently, my neighbor expressed general concern about using a chainsaw this summer because of the amount of buckshot he's found when using his chainsaw while cutting down and bucking trees on his property over the past few years. the concern, of course, is starting a wildfire. about a month ago, i encountered a rock on a manzanita that i was cutting down and got some sparks.

Other than not using the chainsaw, what are some good ways to mitigate this potential problem? attend to the RH (is there a good cut-off of when to stop working)? keep a hose and shovel very close by? if i see a spark, stop and inspect with hose in hand (if it's safe in the process of felling the tree)? what else?

tia

I'm pretty sure steel and lead don't spark. Odds are that buckshot it lead. Steel and rocks do spark though. You should do all chainsaw work after dark so you can see the burning embers

**BCMtnHound** · 06-21-2015, 08:25 PM

Originally Posted by Jethro

You should do all chainsaw work after dark so you can see the burning embers

Sorry, running what is arguably one of the most dangerous handheld powertools out there when light is scarce is not something I would ever do, unless the situation is absolutely necessary. If the conditions are that sensitive to sparks, save the bush work for another day.

Or maybe my sarcasm metre needs calibrating...

**Jethro** · 06-21-2015, 09:06 PM

Major recalibration needed. But I put the smiley at the top of the reply. I do a lot of midnight clearing on bike trails where my moto isn't appreciated though

**BCMtnHound** · 06-21-2015, 09:17 PM

Originally Posted by Jethro

Major recalibration needed. But I put the smiley at the top of the reply. I do a lot of midnight clearing on bike trails where my moto isn't appreciated though

No worries, thought 3 outa 4 might have indicated irony. But memory of 1st on scene to a couple of nasty saw bites rose to the top.

Can't see the smiley in the mobile app either... like this place needs any more artificial ambiguity

**ill-advised strategy** · 06-22-2015, 10:45 AM

Originally Posted by BCMountainHound

Sorry, running what is arguably one of the most dangerous handheld powertools out there when light is scarce is not something I would ever do, unless the situation is absolutely necessary. If the conditions are that sensitive to sparks, save the bush work for another day.

Or maybe my sarcasm metre needs calibrating...

oh the drama.

harden the fuck up nancy.

**bodywhomper** · 06-22-2015, 03:39 PM

Originally Posted by Jethro

I'm pretty sure steel and lead don't spark. Odds are that buckshot it lead. Steel and rocks do spark though. You should do all chainsaw work after dark so you can see the burning embers

Thanks. i did a little googling and ended up reading through a thread on an arborist chat forum; discussion pivoted around sparks when sawing species with very hard wood and also from sand/soil/rocks embedded in the trunk and limbs.

**Viva** · 07-01-2015, 07:33 PM

Check it out- tomorrow I'm gonna visit a logger in the foothills near Sequoia who's selling his dad's old Stihl 036 an 044 (at very nice prices). I'm planing to buy one of these, but would welcome some feedback. I already have an 026 (18" bar) that I've been using for limbing and felling/bucking small trees. Anyone with relevant experience using either of these models? Anything to look out for?

**char** · 07-01-2015, 09:52 PM

044 is classic. loggers sell their stuff when it is beat. should pop after 2 or 3 pulls cold with choke and then fire on the next pull at the next switch setting up.

Probably won't let you do it, but you can pull the muffler and carb and check the piston for scoring and sticky rings. Spark plug should not be black.

Rebuild kits are cheap.

**Viva** · 07-01-2015, 10:08 PM

Thanks, char- this guy's selling his dad's old gear. I'm leaning towards the 044- d00d said that it was his dad's "baby". He said that he has some felled timber on his property that I can test this puppy out on.