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05-09-2006, 02:56 PM #1
Fixing a frayed wire in a camalot
Sorry this pic isn't better, my crappy dig camera won't take a decent close up...
Anyway, one of the wires is frayed on this old boy. The cams still flow fine, but I know in tighter placements, I have a tendency to reef on it if gets stuck.
I've seen some place small spectra cord in the holes and eliminate the wires all together???
Thoughts? Suggestions? Preferred methods?"Don't tell fish stories where the people know you; but particularly, don't tell them where they know fish" -Mark Twain
05-09-2006, 03:01 PM #2
I think BD sells a replacement kit for only $10 or so. Really easy to fix.
05-09-2006, 03:16 PM #3
Here's a link to BD's repair kits:
http://www.bdel.com/gear/spare_parts_rock.php -- the double stem wire kit is $7.50.
05-09-2006, 06:55 PM #4Originally Posted by ctarmchair
PS I wonder if Teton Mountaineering (ugh...so not a fan of them) could be able to help.
05-09-2006, 07:46 PM #5
Double stem BD cam repair kit should work. If not then all is not lost. Next time you are in Yosemite, go by Camp4, and there will surely be a dude there who can make the repair. Try a nearby climbing shop if there is one...
I used to do them through a local climbing shop for $10. The tools to do a really good job are about $100. If all else fails, email me [my tgr username at gmail dot com] and I will hook you up.
05-10-2006, 09:01 AM #6
i would personally retire that piece, but it's your life on the "line"
05-10-2006, 09:17 AM #7Originally Posted by danhikeski
05-10-2006, 05:51 PM #8Originally Posted by danhikeski
Furthermore, buying into the "replace it if it is scratched" mentality is just plain stoopid! This stuff is bomber, and is designed to be bomber in less than stellar circumstances.
I'm sorry, but I don't have a trust fund- and therefore can't afford to replace my rack every two-three years."Don't tell fish stories where the people know you; but particularly, don't tell them where they know fish" -Mark Twain
05-10-2006, 05:54 PM #9Originally Posted by Mulletizer
Also thanks Upallnight for the link, I'm sure TM has these in stock or can get them. I saw a snazzy repair job using spectra cord once- and was wondering of anybody knew how to do it.
???"Don't tell fish stories where the people know you; but particularly, don't tell them where they know fish" -Mark Twain
05-10-2006, 06:09 PM #10Registered User
Originally Posted by skiing-in-jacksonElvis has left the building
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
05-10-2006, 07:43 PM #11
Well, first of all, the price of a double-stem cam on ebay would be pretty low (assuming someone would want to buy it at all), so your advice is like telling him to just buy a new one.
I think you are trying to protect him by saying "one rat, many rats"....but the truth is that if he knows the history of his gear, it's right to hang onto it. The braided wires are the first thing to go as they see the most action...the rest of the cam is more solid/beefier than those thin trigger wires that serve no load-bearing purpose.
I say replace the wires and keep using it (assuming it hasn't been dropped, etc.). Worst thing is the trigger wire might break and it would be hard to clean (you'd need a nut tool to disengage each cam), but it would be fine in a fall.
While I like shiny new gear as much as the next guy, it's not always that it's truly "better"...and moeny is a factor (at least for me).
05-10-2006, 09:34 PM #12Registered User
Originally Posted by upallnightElvis has left the building
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- Oct 2003
05-11-2006, 01:53 AM #13Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2004
- a whales vagina
i wouldnt, and i dont know a lot of other climbers who would, buy pro on ebay.
fixing gear that i know the history of that has no problem being fixed sounds way better to me. shit, good pro will last a long time as long as you treat it right.
BD is a company that is super focused on safety and if they sell repair kits there is obviously a reason.Mom! The meatloaf! FUCK!.
05-11-2006, 07:33 AM #14Registered User
- Join Date
- Jan 2005
- Denver, CO
I have replaced/repaired the trigger on a double stem #1 camalot with some sort of piano wire before. I just replaced the cables with 2 pieces of wires to eliminate the need for swages etc. Super huge pain in the ass. Getting everything bent properly and the correct length was a time consuming trial and error process. But I got it to work eventually. Might be easier on a bigger piece like your #3 but not much. At one point they had the trigger kits on sale at the shop in Zion and I bought as many as I could. They are much easier to install and well worth the 10 bucks.
05-11-2006, 04:43 PM #15
Wait, you guys climb with gear?To have a great adventure and survive requires good judgment. Good judgment comes from experience. And experience, of course, is the result of poor judgment. -Geoff Tabin
05-19-2006, 05:01 PM #16
Hey s-i-j...you ever get word from TM or BD on this? Curious how it turned out.
APH: You know you love it!
I am told I can start belaying as soon as I am fully weight-bearing. Never knew I'd look forward to being a belay-slave!