Thread: curious subaru coolant leakage....

so here's the scoop...2000 outback. Zero issues to date, so i guess i'm due (and knock on wood, it's so small) Only seems to leak when very cold, and seems to leak ( i think) from where the hose and the sold fitting mate up, lower engine hose. I've tightened everythign but still seems to leak. However when the engine warms up etc it appears to stop. (when i drive for a while then stop and idle it...no dripping) Seems like once the system gets warm things expand and "seal" up. Any ideas or suggestions etc? Seems kind of odd too me but right now it's so fawkin cold in new england that my beer freezes before i get the hood open, so climbing under it's not an option. Also the level in the res. hardly moves. IE i just drove from AZ to NH approximate speed 75-80mph all the way, under alot of strain, with no coolant level deviation, so i guess the leak isn't that bad....hence my laziness superseding any immediate attention or repair.... Yet any suggestions, it's amazing with the collective of this place spits out!

thx Mag's

Did you have the recall/warranty work done? I know there was a problem with that year's colling system. It's free work (the first time) where they put some kind of additive in the coolant to prevent a leak.

I've got a 2000 Legacy GT, and had the work done...then I somehow cracked my radiator, but that only seemed to leak when cold. I would say try the coolant additive first, that's probably it.

My 96 Taurus had a small leak from an area near the rad that I couldn't quite see into... My ex's father put some leak-stop stuff in and I havn't noticed any green spots in the snow since. Doubt it's a permanant fix, but like you said, lying on your back on a -20C slab of concrete isn't fun.

I typically don't buy into the hocus-pocus stuff they sell at automotive stores, but that stuff seems to be buying me some extra time, so maybe it'll help you too.

a couple of thoughts:

are you sure the leak isn't coming from the water pump? a notorious spot for little tiny seeps.

replacing the rad hose (if you're sure that's where the leak is) should be an easy and relatively inexpensive operation, they do have a useful life.

the stops leak stuff does work for little tiny leaks like this unless it is a symptom of a larger problem.

I second the water pump weep. I try to stay away from stop leak soloution as it will plug up your heater core and those are a bitch to get to in any rig.

I had to get the warranty work done on the coolant leak issue.

there was a recall.

I suggest you check that out first.

Originally Posted by assgasorgrass

I second the water pump weep. I try to stay away from stop leak soloution as it will plug up your heater core and those are a bitch to get to in any rig.

Ugh, that's what I told the ex's father actually. He was a mechanic for 35 years, so I couldn't win that argument (more evidence that taking your car to a garage really is a bad thing to do). Doesn't matter to me in the end, she's going to get that car, it'll be her problem.

Maybe save me some googling, but what exactly is the theory of operation for the stop-leak products? Does it gel up or something?

definitely not the water pump...unless that is located on one of the hoses or the bottom middle of the radiator. When it's dry i can see where it's crusted and such....thankfully it's not the waterpump(knock on wood)

The additive or "recall" actually it believe it was a service bulletin I believe (difference being recall they tell you, service bull they’ll fix it buy you gotta “figure” it/find out about it yourself, I think that the difference) was/is some sort of Subaru “barsleak” that they put in there for the mysterious headgasket issue. By having the additive put in and documented will subsequently extend your warranty on said headgasket.

Lem – rad hose(s) are the most common sense, cheapest place to start, but it’s too cold to climb under and fck with. If a dealer were only going to charge me $20 I’d have them do it.

I guess what I’m ultimately worried about is can I drive it on road trips etc and not sweat it…..if it seals up nice and tight in warmer weather do I need to sweat it immediately….For example, It never/ever leaked in AZ. Moved to NE….drips initially but once warm alls good. Integrity of the hoses feel acceptable/non bloated and soft.

Originally Posted by Blatant

It never/ever leaked in AZ. Moved to NE…

theres your problem right there. New England has a way of destroying cars very quickly. Id use the quick seal until spring, then flush your system and replace the hose.

I've put stop leak in maybe as many as 40 different vehicles and never once had it come back with a plugged heater core and frankly I'm not sure how such a product would go about doing this.

Blatant, what I'd do is toss some stops leak in as a temp measure. Buy the correct hose and keep it plus a couple of gallons of premixed coolant + clamps and correct clamp socket in your car should you have a blowout but I doubt that you'll have a blowout as long as the clamp is good and the hose isn't really shitty. Once it warms up, do the change then.

Do the recall service immediately if you haven't yet. Sounds like your engine is of that period with head gasket problems. I also had coolant loss last summer and went through the whole process : http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...ru+overheating The sealant is required first, but probably won't help you, because once the heads have gotten to this point, they have to take them off and machine them down. Don't worry, that is included under the recall warranty agreement, with an extended guarantee 'til 100000 miles.

I'm kinda convinced that thee brutal cold winters here contribute to the head warping. Not that this one has been too bad, until last weekend.

Originally Posted by Benny Profane

Do the recall service immediately if you haven't yet. Sounds like your engine is of that period with head gasket problems. I also had coolant loss last summer and went through the whole process : http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...ru+overheating The sealant is required first, but probably won't help you, because once the heads have gotten to this point, they have to take them off and machine them down. Don't worry, that is included under the recall warranty agreement, with an extended guarantee 'til 100000 miles.

I'm kinda convinced that thee brutal cold winters here contribute to the head warping. Not that this one has been too bad, until last weekend.

I had that bull shit additive put in long ago...it's not a head issue,(thank gawd) it's a nonsense hose issue but it's too cold to mess with. I appreciate the info on the head gasket but that's ship shape. Lem you are right...already thought about that, hoses are a dealer item around here....apparently.