Thread: How to hot wax/p-tex?

I put a good sized gash in my ski and i went to the store and got some p-tex and some hot wax, I have an iorn and a place to work on my skiis. The guy at the store was being gay and bassically said i should bring them in and pay them for a tuned but the edges are still sharp. I dont' want to pay a shit load to get them fixed and i wanted to make sure that i'm doing it right and don't mess up my skiis. Should i just drip in the p-tex into the gash then flatten it out with plexy glass and after it dries drip the hot wax onto my skis then scrape it with plexy glass to flatten it out. Or should i iorn all the wax/p-tex on to it? What is the best way to hotwax/p-tex?

use the "search" function . a while back someone asked this and got referred to a thread at epicgape.

-seldon

i've searched for hotwax, p-tex, and for epicgape but i can't find anything

I literally just did the p-tex 5 mins ago, so here it is:
1. grab p-tex candle
2. grab lighter (if you don't have one just run around asking for a smoke, then steal their lighter)
3. hold light to p-tex candle (don't burn yourself)
4. don't drip p-tex on self
5. once candle is lit, let it burn and heat up till you can tell it'll drip
6. blow out
7. immediately drip/smudge into gash. I don't know if this is the right way, but its how I did it
8. scrape level with metal scraper

hot wax
1. turn on iron to desired setting (if you're going ghetto and using a normal iron, use the lowest dry setting there is)
2. while its heating up, scrape with plexi/plastic scraper till you get pretty much no more wax
3. brush with nylon brush
4. take wax block to iron, and drip it onto ski in any pattern you want, only drip one line or so down the center (ie not very much wax, should only use a little bit of a block) if the wax is smoking, the iron is too hot
5. iron wax into base until smooth
6. scrape scrape scrape
7. brush


ok, thats about it.

thanks

If you have a gas torch use it instead of lighter, the candle will burn cleaner. Doesn't matter much with black one but it will show with the clear one. If you don't keep the candle's lighted end close to a metal scraper, it will burn cleaner too.

drC

ptex -
light, drip, scape.

wax-
drip, iron, light scrape, ski

I have a policy of not spending more time waxing than the wax will actually last, since I'm not trying to shave .00's of seconds off my time on a course.

I do my best waxing on hot spring days on the hill. I set my skis so the base (preferably black base) tilt directly into sun's rays, eat lunch, whip out the yellow, and watch it run on the hot bases as if on an iron, smearing it down . Makes the afternoons a joy when everyone else is struggling to make headway through the warm snow.

Lets avoid the "no scraping vs scraping and brushing" debate here, it already happened on Powder .

Make sure you're using the right temperature wax, and remember that the waxes are graded for SNOW temperature (i made this mistake a couple a days ago, for like the 50th time.... /smacks himself/)
-john

Wax those skis like you're waxing your ho's ass!

Originally posted by seldon

Make sure you're using the right temperature wax, and remember that the waxes are graded for SNOW temperature (i made this mistake a couple a days ago, for like the 50th time.... /smacks himself/)

Now, if you're doing laundry, you no longer have to worry about which detergent to use- One detergent, all temperature Cheer!

Originally posted by schuss
[5. once candle is lit, let it burn and heat up till you can tell it'll drip
6. blow out
7. immediately drip/smudge into gash. I don't know if this is the right way, but its how I did it
8. scrape level with metal scraper

[/B]

Almost right.... Do Not blow out the candle! Just let it drip into the hole. do not ever toucht the ptex stick to the ski. and scrape with plexi glass not metal when done...


duke

Originally posted by Duker
Almost right.... Do Not blow out the candle! Just let it drip into the hole. do not ever toucht the ptex stick to the ski. and scrape with plexi glass not metal when done...


duke

You weren't supposed to give away the "do not touch the ptex" that was supposed to be a self-discovery moment.

Here you go, read up.

http://www.tognar.com/tunebasics.html

What would Einstein say? Keep it simple stupid....

(sorry I couldn't help myself)

Originally posted by Canuk
What would Einstein say? Keep it simple stupid....

(sorry I couldn't help myself)

canuk.... <stuttering with rage>I'm g-g-going t-t-t-to KILL KILL KILL DEATH PAIN KILL DEATH Y-Y-YOU</stuttering with rage>

Originally posted by seldon
canuk.... <stuttering with rage>I'm g-g-going t-t-t-to KILL KILL KILL DEATH PAIN KILL DEATH Y-Y-YOU</stuttering with rage>

You wouldn't have passed it up either....lol

That thread was way too funny

its the BEST...

some classic quotes:
the original death
"Einstein always said "Keep in simple". Get the correct wax for the snow and temperature conditions. If you have to mix waxes that's ok. Dribble it on, run your iron on until the wax is smooth, and then leave it alone. That's right, don't do any scraping. You're asking yourself, what the hell is he talking about? I've done this for years with great success. The reason why I don't scrape the wax is because I let the first run down the mountain do the scraping for me. If you don't believe me try it out. If you are an Olympic Downhiller looking to make up 100th's of seconds in a race, ya the scraping and polishing is critical. But if you're a gaper on the groomer, don't be so anal. They'll slide just fine daddy o "

post #2
"Wrong you are pear breath. You are probably the guy I glided past last week at Crystal. Unstable ski? Come on. I'm gonna have to send you back to Physics class. 1/64 of an inch of extra wax won't make a ski unstable. A guy that skis with his feet together will make an unstable ski. I'll have to send you back to ski waxing school also, LOL!! Believe me , I know what I'm talking about. I've had lenghty discussions about this with Louie of Greenwater Skis. He is the guru of ski tuning. Don't knock it until you try it. "

post #3
"Like I said, don't knock it until you try it Einstein. For your information I structure my skis before I wax them. Oh geez, brilliant idea. What? Get the wax into the ski first. Ya, I know I saw you now. You were the guy going over the handle bars on Queens Run. Oops, forget to put the correct wax on? Wax is way more important than you state. Ever try to ski fresh powder on a 10 degree day with soft compound wax? Yep, I knew it, you got stuck before you got on the chair lift, LOL!! Hey, you go ahead and keep sticking to the snow, and I'll just glide on past gaper!! "


and teh rest: http://forum.powdermag.com/cgi-bin/u...=003006#000005


the gaper in question had a handle of "bandit"

Originally posted by seldon
Make sure you're using the right temperature wax, and remember that the waxes are graded for SNOW temperature (i made this mistake a couple a days ago, for like the 50th time.... /smacks himself/)
-john

Check out Purl's all-temp wax. Freakin rules!

Originally posted by seldon
its the BEST...

some classic quotes:
the original death
"Einstein always said "Keep in simple". Get the correct wax for the snow and temperature conditions. If you have to mix waxes that's ok. Dribble it on, run your iron on until the wax is smooth, and then leave it alone. That's right, don't do any scraping. You're asking yourself, what the hell is he talking about? I've done this for years with great success. The reason why I don't scrape the wax is because I let the first run down the mountain do the scraping for me. If you don't believe me try it out. If you are an Olympic Downhiller looking to make up 100th's of seconds in a race, ya the scraping and polishing is critical. But if you're a gaper on the groomer, don't be so anal. They'll slide just fine daddy o "

post #2
"Wrong you are pear breath. You are probably the guy I glided past last week at Crystal. Unstable ski? Come on. I'm gonna have to send you back to Physics class. 1/64 of an inch of extra wax won't make a ski unstable. A guy that skis with his feet together will make an unstable ski. I'll have to send you back to ski waxing school also, LOL!! Believe me , I know what I'm talking about. I've had lenghty discussions about this with Louie of Greenwater Skis. He is the guru of ski tuning. Don't knock it until you try it. "

post #3
"Like I said, don't knock it until you try it Einstein. For your information I structure my skis before I wax them. Oh geez, brilliant idea. What? Get the wax into the ski first. Ya, I know I saw you now. You were the guy going over the handle bars on Queens Run. Oops, forget to put the correct wax on? Wax is way more important than you state. Ever try to ski fresh powder on a 10 degree day with soft compound wax? Yep, I knew it, you got stuck before you got on the chair lift, LOL!! Hey, you go ahead and keep sticking to the snow, and I'll just glide on past gaper!! "


and teh rest: http://forum.powdermag.com/cgi-bin/u...=003006#000005


the gaper in question had a handle of "bandit"

that was my favorite piss battle EVER!

haha dipstik... i watched in awe as bandit died in flames

God that piss war was hilarious

first round: dipstick vs. bandit

and everything else after that was bandit getting slammed down by everyone on the pmag board.

anyone know what happened to that bitch? i hope someday he appears on tgr and starts regaling us with his personal connection to einstein

For the record, both Plakespear and Vinman can attest to the fact that scraping is not a big deal. They were with me as I skied a freshly waxed, completely unscraped ski. We skied side-by-side on flats and my skis were very fast.
Just had to get that in.
Bandit blows.

Dex was fast that day. But then again on the day in question anything short of a ski with sandpaper glued to the bases would have been fast.

Scraping is not a big deal-Dex

You're finally learning. Took you a while. I guess you found out it was better to be on the slopes than polishing the bases of your skis all day. Or were you the guy I saw polishing the brass at The Hotel Vancouver? LOL!!

Here are some observations on what we do at our shop:

Customer wax:
(everything else)
drip wax, iron in, let sit, scrape until little comes off, buff with scotchbrite pad to make pretty.

Rental wax:
(base work, edge and belt grind base)
roll ski over roller wax, scotchbrite pad for pretty

Personal tunes:
(everything else)
drip wax, iron in, let sit, scrape with plastic until little comes off, buff with cork


We rarely use metal scrapers instead opting for the plastic scrapers... thoughts on that?

I think it leaves a little more wax on.