Page 5 of 9 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 LastLast
Results 101 to 125 of 201
  1. #101
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,228
    try a few stiffer/higher end models on and see if the SHAPE is better, (the flex can be made softer, later) If the fit is better, then go for it. dont worry about the marketing of a boot (race vs freeride vs beginner) shape first, then flex.


  2. #102
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Front Range, CO
    Posts
    492
    Tried them on again, with a new salesman. He said I have an almost E width foot and did not recommend the low volume (97 last boot). Did a shell fit on the LV boot, sides of my forefoot were touching both sides of the shell - no room to move side to side. Even so the LV boots did not feel terribly uncomfortable after 10-15 minutes, but I did start to lose circulation even with the toes unbuckled.

    I'm leaning towards the 100 Last - mistake?

    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    i usually aim for toe buckles OFF on a new boot. then you can make them tighter when/if needed
    thinner footbed will help too
    5-15mm shell fit is good, mm are more accurate then fingers..
    go smaller, tighter, you will be fine

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    2,122
    Just upgraded from Head Raptor 110RS in a 25, to a Lange RX 130 pro in a 24.

    With two years of use (over 200 days) and bootfitting, the raptors fit less comfortably than the RX130pro out of the box. Love them. Unfortunately, I dislocated my foot last week, and I can't put my foot in the boot at all now...
    Last edited by Climber Joe; 10-20-2011 at 03:48 PM.

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,228
    Quote Originally Posted by slcdawg View Post
    I'm leaning towards the 100 Last - mistake?
    sounds like 100mm is easier fit. odds are the 97 CAN work, but BOTH you and the sale/boot fitter will know that this will take some time, some work, and will always be a tight, performance fit. 100mm should be fine


  5. #105
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Front Range, CO
    Posts
    492
    Cool - thanks.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    39
    Getting some new boots for this season. I was in a shop yesterday with a good fitter and it came down to the Rossi experience 130 (Same shell as Lange RX 130) or Dalbello Krypton Pro ID. Both fit well, shell fit was a tad tighter on the Dalbellos (possibly too tight, fitter thought he might have to grind them a little). Interesting because in theory the last on the Dalbello is 98 vs 97 on the Rossi. FYI I have very narrow feet. I'm basically trying to decide whether I like the design of the Dalbello. The stock intuition liner makes them tempting, but I've always been on standard 4 buckle boots like the Rossis before.

    Anyone made the transition to Kryptons, any comments?
    Thanks

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,228
    if you like the idea of the 3 prt boot, the fulltilts are a bit narrower then the dalbello
    http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...info?p=2168120
    dont think that 3prt boots are better oe wrose, just feel a bit different, and flex a bit softer at the start of the flex (almost feels too soft or too loose) and then stiffen up later.
    dont worry about the 4 vs 3 buckle, worry about the fit.


  8. #108
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    5
    I am in need of some boot purchasing help... I am currently in Lange wc 120 boots (softened), and have always been bothered by the lack of toe room width (despite grinding/punches). I have chicken legs (11 1/2 inches at boot top height) and fore foot width of 99 with my bunion and 96-97 not including the bunion with my Aline foot beds. I tried on a pair of Nordica Dobermann Pro 130's 25.5 for my size 9 foot, and they fit nicely in the fore foot. I have found a great deal on a pair of Dobermann WC 150's on line. Will these be too narrow in the forefoot or could I have the bunion area punched to make adequate room? I think they would work well with my chicken legs and I know they can be softened for flex. I plan to wear these with my Zip fit Gara liners.Thanks for the guidance!

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,228
    should work OK, with some work.
    pro = 98,
    WC= 95 so you will need 3mm of overall width made, plus some bunion room. I would keep looking for the 98mm version if that what fits best. Nordica also made some non-race versions (Jah love?) with the same 98mm last and a 110-130 flex. maybe hunt for them too


  10. #110
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    5
    Thanks, I will keep searching!

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    18,593
    Bump and starting to look at a dedicated alpine boot. Have the Titans and Power Wrap Intuitions with the Din soles installed now. For touring I have the Zzero4 c tf and Tour Wrap Intuitions which I got fitted about a month ago.

    I hate Dfit liners.

    Me, normal width with a low volume fore foot. In the past I have had to use the Bonex(sic?) insole shims and an aftermarket footbed. I am a true 28.5 mondo.

    I like these new moldable shells. Think I will stop over to the LBF to have a chat.

    KUTGW

    PS If anyone could recommend a 120-130 flex alpine boot to look at I would surely do so.
    watch out for snakes

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Tahoe
    Posts
    2,694
    Bumpin' back up.

    I like a pretty stiff boot, been using some old Head World Cups with Intuitions for a long time, a 26 - 300 bsl shell. I'm sold on the Intuitions as they cushion my high arches well and will almost certainly pop 'em in whatever I get next or get a new set so I'm looking for a recommendation for a shell. I'd like a nice narrow heel pocket but a wider forefoot, my Head's aren't as wide up front as I'd like but sure do snug the heel nicely. But the problem I seem to be running into is finding a bsl close to the 300 I have. The Kryptons in my size jump up to a 306, that seems like a big jump. Thanks for any suggestions.
    "The mind, once expanded to the dimensions of larger ideas, never returns to its original size."

  13. #113
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,228
    um, can you go try on some boots and see what fits you the best. I've made a bunch of 95mm boots fit VERY wide feet, with some shell work. I would suggest almost anyones full plug/race, 95-98mm boot. get it made wider, and then insert your liners.


  14. #114
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Snowttingham
    Posts
    1,319
    Bump for potential sore feet mags,
    i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

  15. #115
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,228
    bump, just incase the red boots are not working correctly


  16. #116
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Pyongyang
    Posts
    686
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    bump, just in case the red boots are not working correctly
    My cue.
    I was bargain hunting at my local shop, tried on some Redster WC 130's. I do like the fit and price but I don't need all that stiffness though. What's involved in softening these to 120-ish without changing the relatively progressive flex pattern?

    And the 110's are not on sale.

  17. #117
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,228
    usually you can cut a "V" notch in back of the boot, or on the sides, and this can lower the flex. deeper the cut, softer the flex.

    also removing 1 or 2 rivets on the back of a boot.

    power strap on the liner, between the shell and liner.

    if you only need 130 => 110 you should be fine with just a bit of work. but I would ski them first, to see how much they change flex in the cold


  18. #118
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Pyongyang
    Posts
    686
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    usually you can cut a "V" notch in back of the boot, or on the sides, and this can lower the flex. deeper the cut, softer the flex.

    also removing 1 or 2 rivets on the back of a boot.

    power strap on the liner, between the shell and liner.

    if you only need 130 => 110 you should be fine with just a bit of work. but I would ski them first, to see how much they change flex in the cold
    OK great, no major surgery. Thanks mtnlion.

    IMO the dual action power strap that comes with the Redster is a hot mess. You gave me another idea. I might try just removing it just to see what that does to flex.

  19. #119
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,228
    yup, and replace with a soft booster?


  20. #120
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Pyongyang
    Posts
    686
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    yup, and replace with a soft booster?
    I bought them. I won't cut them until I've skied them a bit.

    This may be modern heresy but I might just try skiing them without any strap (70's style). The tongue is very substantial on this boot. If it ends up I think I need one, then yes, the Booster.

    These are my very first pair of red boots and I'm eager to see how fast they will be.

  21. #121
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    76
    mntlion,
    Got a question for you. I am coming off a pair of technica Race Pro 130's in a 25 that i have been on for almost 5 years. Looking to step into some Lange RX 130's but am questioning between going with the 24.5 shell size or the 25.5. My technica's at 25.5 shell felt large after a season on them, but when shell sizing the Lange's, i fall right between, with around a finger of room on the 24.5 but over two fingers of room on the 25.5. I have always skied with a race fit to my boots as i ski pretty much exactly like my brother, Gripen, just with a very slightly bigger foot. Any helpful thoughts? Stopped by the shop two weeks ago, but you were out.

  22. #122
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,228
    can you convert fingers into mm for me? if its more then 5mm you are fine.

    I'd go smaller with the 24 shells, Heat liners, thick toe caps, pad foot, heat shell, and 10 minutes to cool then and a beer later you are fine.

    I'll be back working last week of Oct, odds are my usual 4 days, 2-8 ish


  23. #123
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    76
    I am looking at around 10 to 12mm in the 24.5 shell vs 20+ in the 25. Many thanks for the advice, especially on the molding. Strangely, everyone down here looks at me funny when i say how small of a boot i am looking for. I unfortunately will not be back in the area for some time as i still live down in MT, was just up visiting Gripen a few weeks back.

  24. #124
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,228
    12mm in 24? heck we can get you in a 23 bring me the lange next time you are around and we can do a full molding to it. We are also set up to do lifters and tow/heel routering. Have both flat, canted, and vibram lifters avail


    If you want a stiffer boot then the RX, I can make you a good deal on a nordica WC 150 in 24 as well


  25. #125
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,480
    Can I purchase the Cochise pro strap anywhere? Really digging it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •