Thread: Tryrolia bindings: Q's on jigs and brakes

So I got a pair of Fischer X14's on the way (X17's were nowhere to be found and the Tyrolia Mojo were more money and seem to be the same binder).

So, for you folks working in the shops that have fingered a lot of Tyrolia shit:

1) how standard are their hole patterns and jigs over the years.
If I were to buy a jig, how old could it be and still work for the modern non-railflex bindings? Would a railflex binding jig also work?
Any buzzwords or part numbers to look for?

2) Brakes: are all Tyrolia wide brakes interchangeable? or are railflex and Mojo different styles? If anyone has fat brakes, PM me and I may buy them instead of bending mine.

thx.

Railflex and non-Railflex bindings use different brakes and different jigs. I don't know how long the hole pattern has stayed constant.

Bending brakes is tough: they're the stoutest brakes I've seen. You can buy them up to 115mm, though.

For Railflex you don't even need a jig. The rails are their own template.

There's a jig for sale (#92 type) on eBay right now. That jig will mount 95% of the modern Tyrolia bindings available from the last 4-5 years (except for Railflexes as already pointed out). The patterns are identical across most of their bindings and I would imagine that it's the same across the Fischer stuff too.

The brakes are available as the "Power Brake LD Fat 90" and the "Power Brake LD Fat 115". They are all interchangeable. In fact almost all of the Tyrolia binding parts can be moved around between the bindings. I have quite a few sets of "Frankenstein" Tyrolias that use parts and pieces from each other.

Originally Posted by Wild4umlauts

There's a jig for sale (#92 type) on eBay right now. That jig will mount 95% of the modern Tyrolia bindings available from the last 4-5 years (except for Railflexes as already pointed out). The patterns are identical across most of their bindings and I would imagine that it's the same across the Fischer stuff too.

The brakes are available as the "Power Brake LD Fat 90" and the "Power Brake LD Fat 115". They are all interchangeable. In fact almost all of the Tyrolia binding parts can be moved around between the bindings. I have quite a few sets of "Frankenstein" Tyrolias that use parts and pieces from each other.

Fack, dude, that was the jig I was stealthily trying to inquire about.

No one else bid, okay fuckers? I promise you can use my jig anytime you want.

It needs to be a 92W jig. I was actually looking at that jig also, heh...

Originally Posted by BakerBoy

It needs to be a 92W jig. I was actually looking at that jig also, heh...

92"W" being wide??

Or is there some different hole pattern.

That #92 jig was described as working for fat skis, but I was unsure if it worked for modern binders.

W is for wide. The plain Tyrolia 92 jig only works up to 80mm ish. Pounded it onto a pair of BS8.6's awhile ago. If you're going to bother trying to freehand a skinny jig, you might as well save yourself some money and just make a template using an old ski.

But I'd have to go look at the shop to see if we were actually using the 92 or not. There's a few jigs that work. I know for a fact the 92 is the correct jig for the FR/X series of bindings.

Originally Posted by Core Shot

Any buzzwords to look for?
thx.

Buzzwords:
These are average bindings, but generally not historically equal in quality to the top two. Like Marker and Salomon, some older Tyrolias will perform safely, but only those that saw little use. All in all, these tend to wear out faster than the top two.

Originally Posted by train07

Buzzwords:
These are average bindings, but generally not historically equal in quality to the top two. Like Marker and Salomon, some older Tyrolias will perform safely, but only those that saw little use. All in all, these tend to wear out faster than the top two.

Where the hell do you get your data? Marker a top binding (in sales maybe)? Salomon more durable (not most of their models)? Tyrolia is the #1 binding in Europe - their top end stuff from the past 4-5 seasons is the real deal when many others have been incorporating more and more plastic. You know what - keep buying your Marker and Salomon binders so that my Tyrolias are still the deal steals that they are in the U.S.

P.S. Heh, I just saw the other thread and realized that these thoughts most likely aren't yours. Apology extended...

The old 92 jig will work with the extender thingies that Tyrolia sells. I've done skis well over 90 as long as the sidecut isn't too deep and your sole length isn't too long.

It's called the 92 because it first came out in 1992 and hasn't changed since. They did have a few other jigs along the way so if you have the freeflex stuff it may not work.

Freeflex stuff works just fine. The plate doesn't affect mount holes at all. Find the extenders, or make your own I guess.

Don't need no stinkn smilies.
On a side note...Hey BakedBoy... 'sploders found me...they came from Points North Heli.
Unfortuately came with marker demos 1400 speed point. Gonna test em regardless
Re: this thread I loved my tyrolias..(before you guys were born)

Originally Posted by train07

Don't need no stinkn smilies.
On a side note...Hey BakedBoy... 'sploders found me...they came from Points North Heli.
Unfortuately came with marker demos 1400 speed point. Gonna test em regardless
Re: this thread I loved my tyrolias..(before you guys were born)

Just be careful with those speedpoints after repeated hard landings. The mechanism isn't necessarily the most durable.

The 92 jig works with FreeFlex bindings... I don't know about rail flex, there wasn't anything like that a couple years back...

If you can't find the extender, you can secure the jig in place with good 'ol ducktape! The jig will be higher but as long as it's in the right place, you'll be fine!

Good luck!

(now everyone go bid on the 92 Tyrolia jig on ebay! LOL! just kiddin!)

Long story short, after 4 weeks of bullshit, I finally got the jig and its a 94 jig, which is only good for mounting KIDS bindings. I even considered modifying it for the regular pattern, but it only goes to sole length 300

Anyway, found some google-cached tyrolia mounting manuals that confirm that a 92 template mounting jig is the only one that will work (and seems to have been around and unchanged for quite a while).

Basically, the only jig you need from Tyrolia is a "92" except for the "Drill Template Railflex" which started in 2003/04 (but railflex is its own jig).
the new binders (mojo) and the Fishcher X14 and X17 all seem to be the same classic pattern.
Why don't all binding companies keep it this simple?

I'm posting it here for posterity.

Here's the list as of 2004 for "Drill template 92 (162 588) "
This jig has BLUE handles.

2003/04
Free Flex Plus 10 (X), Free Flex Plus 8 (X), Free Flex Plus 10, Free Flex Plus 8 LD, Free Flex Plus 7, LD 12 Cyber, LD 12 S, LD 12, SL 110 Carve ABS, SL 110 S ABS, SL 110 ABS, SL 100 ABS, SL 100, SL 100 Carve, SL 70 Carve ABS, SL 70 ABS, SL 70, TD 8, T 6 Speed Plate 15, Carve Plate 13 SLR, Carve Plate 9 SLR,

2002/03
Free Flex Plus 10, Free Flex Plus 8, Free Flex Plus 7, Power Select Freeride 8*, Cyber Carbon D 9 SX, Cyber D8SX,TD8TS, LD 12 Cyber, LD 12, LD 10, SL 110 ABS, SL 100 Carve ABS, SL 100 Carve, SL 100 ABS, SL 100, Symrent 4, SL 70 Carve ABS, SL 70 ABS, SL 70, T 6, Carve Plate 13 SL, Speed Plate 15, Carve Plate 9 SL

2001/02
Free Flex Plus 10 Free Flex Plus 8, Free Flex Plus 7, Power Select Freeride 9*, Power Select Freeride 8*, Cyber Carbon D 9 SX, Cyber D 8 SX, Cyber SL 110, TD 8 TS, SL110 Carve ABS, SL 110 ABS, SL 100 Carve ABS, SL 100 Carve, SL 100 ABS, SL 100, Symrent 4, SL 70 Carve ABS, SL 70 ABS, SL 70, TD 9 T, T 6, Super Carve Plate 23 X, Carve Plate 13 SL, Speed Plate, Carve Plate 9 SL, Carve Plate PS,

Earlier lines prior to 2001
Free Flex Plus 10, Free Flex Plus 8, Power Select Freeride 9*, Power Select Freeride 8* Power Select Freeride 7* Power Select 9*, Power Select 8* Power Select 9 Rent*, Power Select 8 Rent*, Power Select Freeride SL110*, Power Select 8 Rent* Demo, Cyber Carbon D 9, Cyber D 9, Cyber D 9z, Cyber D 8, Cyber 8, Cyber 7, Cyber 6, Cyber 4, Cyber Free Flex, TD 8 TS, SL 110 Carve ABS, SL 110 ABS, SL 110, SL 100 Carve ABS, SL 100 Carve, SL 100 ABS TS, SL 100 ABS, SL 100 TS, SL100, SL 70 Carve ABS, SL 70 ABS, SL 70, TD 9 T, T 6 (99), Symrent 4, Free Flex 9 World Cup, Free Flex 9 Racing, Free Flex 8 Racing, Free Flex 9T, Carve Flex 6, Carve Flex 4, T 7, T 6, T 5, T 4, T 6.7, TD 9T, TD 9, TD 8, T 6.5, T 5.6, T 5.6i, T 5.6, T 5.6i, Super Carve Plate, Speed Plate, Carve Plate TS, Carve Plate PS, Carve Plate 9, Carve Plate, Easy Carver

Yep, navy blue handles on mine. Mounted alot of bindings with that jig. The 94 will have the right pattern for the toe and the rear heel holes will be correct but the front set is too wide. The 88 is similar, full size boot soles and the toe works and the heel hole sets are the right width but the length is off.


There are two different wide brakes for the free flex. They both mount up to either binding but the plastic does not match the contours as well although not that bad in my opinion. I posted some pics as I had some for sale.

Oh, noticed one other thing with your list. The 92 will mount the heel and toe on the power selects but the center hole for the power select function requires it's own seperate jig. I've freehanded all of those and then you tweak the toe fore or aft (set the toe centered before freehanding) to accomidate the desired effect of the power select.

Originally Posted by cooltsi

The 94 will have the right pattern for the toe and the rear heel holes will be correct but the front set is too wide.

CoreShot - if this is accurate, and if you can modify the jig to be long enough for your boot sole, then it'll work. Just use the jig to drill for the toepieces and the rear holes on the heels, loosely mount the heels using just the rear holes (don't screw all the way down - just to hold it in place), triple-check all measurements, center-punch the front holes on the heels, remove the heels, finish drilling, and mount as usual.

I just used an ancient Look jig for alpine rental bindings to mount up Silvretta 404s. 2 of the holes on the Look jig matched up with 2 holes on the Silvrettas -- all I needed to get it started. For the rest of the way, C-clamps and careful measurements.