2023 - 24 Atomic Hawx Ultra XTD v2 with Boa

[eSock]

Is there any good spots to buy the atomic hawx ultra xtd mimic platinum liner from? I found some EU sites but hoping to get them in the next 2 weeks so not sure about going international.

[gregL]

Is there any good spots to buy the atomic hawx ultra xtd mimic platinum liner from? I found some EU sites but hoping to get them in the next 2 weeks so not sure about going international.

What size? You're in Seattle, right?

[eSock]

Oops double post

[eSock]

What size? You're in Seattle, right?

Yeah in Seattle, size 28.5

[gregL]

Yeah I'm Seattle, and size 28.5

Bummer, I have a spare 26.5.

[eSock]

Bummer, I have a spare 26.5.

Can evo special order them?

[japanada]

I'll have a 28.5 available soon. Brand new

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[gregL]

Can evo special order them?

In general, no. Plus chances are if the atomic.com site is out (as they are currently), they have none in stock in Ogden anyway. PM me if you want to follow up on this, but you're probably better off finding one in stock somewhere, even if it is Europe.

[raerxk1]

Thoughts on a 27.5 Zipfit GFT in the Ultra XTD Boa in 26.5: Will it fit okay?

Looks like I'm gonna have to order the liner blind. Foot size is US 10 EU 43. Based on that, Zipfit recommended the 27.5 - but I'm not sure how it will fit in the shell. For what it's worth, toes are definitely stuffed at the end of the stock liner. It's manageable for me, but not what most would consider reasonable for a boot with a walk mode. It's fine when skiing.

[GoldenBC]

I use a 25 in a 24. Generally, put in the same size liner as shell. However, if you are in a tight shell fit, often times the same size liner will feel super tight, but not painful as it’s soft. It will feel like a sock pulled tight on your toes. I upsize the Zipfit size all the time for customers and it gives a lot of relief.

I say you can do it with zero issues and it will definitely fit in the shell no problem.

[arild]

I and many others go for foot length size zips in shorter shells. Do it, especially given your problem description.

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[tupp_]

Is there any difference from the boa to non-boa? I had to crank down the boa so much that it took much longer than buckles. Also, in Canada they are $100 cheaper with standard buckles. And a cool 6g lighter

[onenerdykid]

Is there any difference from the boa to non-boa? I had to crank down the boa so much that it took much longer than buckles. Also, in Canada they are $100 cheaper with standard buckles. And a cool 6g lighter

The difference between BOA and buckles comes down to how well the shell wraps around the foot. BOA continues to wrap evenly, while buckles wrap to a point then collapse (as all buckles do). You can continue to tighten BOA more than buckles before it starts to hurt basically. Buckles are for sure faster than BOA.

[GoldenBC]

Matt, do you think there’s a chance they would replace the granny gearing in the boa for something faster? To me, it’s not about having to overtighten, it’s the amount of time to take up the slack created while putting on the shell.

[onenerdykid]

Matt, do you think there’s a chance they would replace the granny gearing in the boa for something faster? To me, it’s not about having to overtighten, it’s the amount of time to take up the slack created while putting on the shell.

It's not in BOA's plan to do so. In some of their high-powered models on snowboard boots, BOA offers a "Coiler" version of their dial, which auto-winds excess cable up into the dial but it adds even more stack height. No one is going to want that here...

[Stewy30]

Thoughts on a 27.5 Zipfit GFT in the Ultra XTD Boa in 26.5: Will it fit okay?

Looks like I'm gonna have to order the liner blind. Foot size is US 10 EU 43. Based on that, Zipfit recommended the 27.5 - but I'm not sure how it will fit in the shell. For what it's worth, toes are definitely stuffed at the end of the stock liner. It's manageable for me, but not what most would consider reasonable for a boot with a walk mode. It's fine when skiing.

Another one with zip fits sized up, 28.5 in 27.5 shell, works great

[WhetherMan]

Has anyone actually punched the heel on these without destroying the walk mode? Bummed that heel issues might doom this boot for me

[GoldenBC]

It's not in BOA's plan to do so. In some of their high-powered models on snowboard boots, BOA offers a "Coiler" version of their dial, which auto-winds excess cable up into the dial but it adds even more stack height. No one is going to want that here...

Bummer. I don’t know if it’s a size thing but that hearing is pretty wack. The biggest feedback we’ve heard is it’s slow and some manufacturers (Fischer) don’t have any markings to show how tight you have it. Nice work on the markings on the Hawx shell.

[GoldenBC]

Has anyone actually punched the heel on these without destroying the walk mode? Bummed that heel issues might doom this boot for me

I did an intense heat mold that seemed to help a coworker who had the bite point straight at the back of his heel. We didn’t want to heat mold the entire shell so I cooked the back of the boot with a heat gun. Got it really hot and focussed on the the reinforced area of the walkmode/heel. I put a firm 3mm pad on his heel and toe cups to push him back. Keep the boot in ski mode to make sure the latch works.

This made quite a bit of room and fixed the issue but did create some heel lift. Pinch pads helped gain some hold back but he ended up going with zipfits as he was thinking that anyways. He’s stoked now.

Doing it again, I would do a more precise pad trimmed to the minimum I possibly needed and potentially thinner.

Years ago I punch my Hawx on the corner of my heel. I had to mirror the punch on the other side of the heel to straighten out the walk mode bar.

I find grinding the boot board lower in the heel helps (as well as the foot bed). Also zipfits help with a lot of people if they are getting it from a slight lift.

[optics]

Bummer. I don’t know if it’s a size thing but that hearing is pretty wack. The biggest feedback we’ve heard is it’s slow and some manufacturers (Fischer) don’t have any markings to show how tight you have it. Nice work on the markings on the Hawx shell.

Isn't the "slow" thing kinda just an issue when you first boot up for the day?

If it's just about loosening for lift rides, you can get decent slack out of two full turns backing-off the boa (vs popping to release it).

Slightly slower than buckles but hard to complain if you're feeling the other benefits.

[SkiLyft]

I did an intense heat mold that seemed to help a coworker who had the bite point straight at the back of his heel. We didn’t want to heat mold the entire shell so I cooked the back of the boot with a heat gun. Got it really hot and focussed on the the reinforced area of the walkmode/heel. I put a firm 3mm pad on his heel and toe cups to push him back. Keep the boot in ski mode to make sure the latch works.

This made quite a bit of room and fixed the issue but did create some heel lift. Pinch pads helped gain some hold back but he ended up going with zipfits as he was thinking that anyways. He’s stoked now.

Doing it again, I would do a more precise pad trimmed to the minimum I possibly needed and potentially thinner.

Years ago I punch my Hawx on the corner of my heel. I had to mirror the punch on the other side of the heel to straighten out the walk mode bar.

I find grinding the boot board lower in the heel helps (as well as the foot bed). Also zipfits help with a lot of people if they are getting it from a slight lift.

What is the downside of heating the whole boot; I’m in a Hawx Ultra Pro (non-XTD) and on day 3 I noticed a bit of a pressure point on the lateral side of my right foot at the head of my 5th met where it meets the cuboid.

Should I just have my boot fitter head up that zone and punch? Vs heating the shell. I know ONK said something about only heating the shells if it was absolutely needed which brought me to the natural question of “why”?


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[onenerdykid]

What is the downside of heating the whole boot; I’m in a Hawx Ultra Pro (non-XTD) and on day 3 I noticed a bit of a pressure point on the lateral side of my right foot at the head of my 5th met where it meets the cuboid.

Should I just have my boot fitter head up that zone and punch? Vs heating the shell. I know ONK said something about only heating the shells if it was absolutely needed which brought me to the natural question of “why”?


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When you cook the entire shell, you soften the entire shell and you risk making things wider where you don't need them wider.

For the average skier, skiing one week per year, this is not a noticeable thing. But for people who prioritize performance, then you need to take care when heating the entire shell when you only need one little area addressed.

In my experience, skiers who prioritize performance should customize the boot where it needs customizing. It leads to less disappointment.

[gregL]

Has anyone actually punched the heel on these without destroying the walk mode? Bummed that heel issues might doom this boot for me

I've done a number of them, including my own. If the issue is symmetrical and above the calcaneus (i.e. directly under the reinforced area for the walk mode latch) it is fairly straightforward - I use a flat button and the small SVST ring with some dense rubber to pad the ring (don't use a ball, it will spread the connection "knobs" and potentially skew the walk mode pin). If the issue is not aligned with the achilles, it gets a little trickier - the most common scenario has a Haglund's bump on the lateral side of the heel, and you sometimes need to also punch the medial side to keep the walk mode lever functional.

As always, very precise heat gun use (close to the shell) is imperative.

[SkiLyft]

When you cook the entire shell, you soften the entire shell and you risk making things wider where you don't need them wider.

For the average skier, skiing one week per year, this is not a noticeable thing. But for people who prioritize performance, then you need to take care when heating the entire shell when you only need one little area addressed.

In my experience, skiers who prioritize performance should customize the boot where it needs customizing. It leads to less disappointment.

Perfect; this was my assumption but wanted to check it!


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[gregL]

I find grinding the boot board lower in the heel helps (as well as the foot bed). Also zipfits help with a lot of people if they are getting it from a slight lift.

Grinding the bootboard a few millimeters can also help, but I'd rather not change the bootboard delta if I can help it - I did it once this season for a guy who was also changing from Pivots (2mm delta) to STH2 16 WTR (5mm delta) and it worked out.