Thread: Should I buy this? WWMD?

So, I went to REI and they took my bike back. I'll probably buy the K2 lithium 3.0 for $1200. I'm wondering if this is a good bike for mostly DH? It looks like their beefiest setup I could find (and squishy). Are other bikes in this price range comperable? I suppose I could take my money elsewhere, and I'm not too thrilled with K2 bikes, but I kinda feel bad taking my money elsewhere since I returned my battered hardtail today. So... good bike or no?

*BTW- I didn't research any bikes when I initially bought the hardtail since it was a college graduation present, the parents just took me to REI, I guess I was a little naive trusting REI.

Heres the specs:

Bike
FRAME Lithium 7000 Series Aluminum Alloy with K2 Reflex Mountain top tube, 100 or 125 mm travel Broadband 4 bar suspension, cartridge link pivots
REAR SHOCK Fox Vanilla R ProPedal, with preload and rebound adjusters
FORK Answer Splice Elite, 130mm, with preload and rebound adjusters
FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Deore
REAR DERAILLEUR SRAM X-7
SHIFTERS SRAM X-7 triggers, 9 speed
FREEWHEEL/CASSETTE SRAM PG-950 9 speed cassette, 11-34
CRANKSET Truvativ Blaze, 170/175, 22/32/44
BOTTOM BRACKET Truvativ Powerspline Cartridge
CHAIN KMC Z9000
WHEELSET Sun CR-18 double-wall rims, 32 hole Shimano M475 disc hubs with stainless steel spokes
TIRES WTB Motoraptor, 26x2.1"
BRAKES Avid BB5 ball-bearing mechanical disc brakes
BRAKE LEVERS Avid FR5, for mechanical disc brakes
HEADSET Ritchey Zero Stack, 1 1/8" threadless
STEM Aluminum alloy threadless, 15 degree rise, four bolt faceplate

If by DH you mean "real" DH, then a 130mm front fork is not going to cut it... sorry dude. (and neither will an air shock)

...sounds like a solid freeride setup.

That's a long-travel trail bike, not a big-hit DH bike.

The main problem is that nothing you buy for $1200 will stand up to "mostly DH". REI carries the Yeti AS-X and the Cannondale Gemini, i.e. "freeride" bikes that can do light DH (and can also be pedaled uphill) -- but they cost a lot more than $1200.

That being said, that K2 is a decent ride, and you can have a lot of fun on it, even lift-served. And as a beginner, you probably won't be going fast enough to destroy it for a while. But if you start going really fast, you can expect to break stuff.

My advice: invest in a pair of good knee/shin and elbow/arm guards (Roach are the best), a pair of platform pedals, and a bash ring. Then you're set to go ride just about anywhere.

I don't have the same confidence in mtn biking as I do in skiing, so I wont go very fast at all. I probably wont do much "real" DH, just lift served stuff. I will be going mostly downhill, but as fast/hard or dropping anything big really.

Edit- I'm really looking for something that will handle lift served stuff at slow to moderate speeds, with occaisional rides to vail and some uphill stuff. I'm really liking this employee pass deal ($30!). I have knee pads and of course a helmet and am looking for some nice body armour but all I can find is pretty much overkill.

661 Veggie shinguards are nice, although I've moved up to Roach Freeride knee/shin guards because my knee pads were very uncomfortable.

Also, you'll probably want wider tires. Wide tires == fat skis == muy bueno.

Originally Posted by SLSki

I'm wondering if this is a good bike for mostly DH?

No.


Let me reiterate:

It sounds like a good trail bike. If you ride very smoothly, this bike could handle a good amount. If you bash it into stuff following rabid DH'ers at full speed, stuff will break. At least REI has a good return policy so that may come into play later if you are riding hard. Unfortunately, it is very hard to have one bike that can handle everything that is possible anymore. A lot of us have bikes that can do it all (Bullitt, AS-X, etc..) but they are heavy for pure XC use and often are a bit much for a true beginner. You will probably go through the same thing we all have gone through; ride hard, break EVERYTHING on your current bike, upgrade. It's more fun than it sounds. Have fun with it and go ride.

mebbe this? IH has really stepped up their rigs.

Originally Posted by Mr. Altagirl

You will probably go through the same thing we all have gone through; ride hard, break EVERYTHING on your current bike, upgrade. It's more fun than it sounds.

Hmmmm...that sounds oddly familiar... brake lever, rear hanger, rear deraileur, rear shock, star nut, pedals, big chainring, and [insert next component to get trashed]...

How the fuck do you break a star nut?

Originally Posted by homerjay

How the fuck do you break a star nut?

Don't ask, it was the eyebrows.

Originally Posted by homerjay

How the fuck do you break a star nut?

I broke one yesterday when trying to install it.

Spend a little more and get a bike that wont destroy itself:
http://www.supergo.com/profile.cfm?L...604&referpage=

Originally Posted by descender

Spend a little more and get a bike that wont destroy itself:
http://www.supergo.com/profile.cfm?L...604&referpage=

I'm not sure that $900 qualifies as "a little more."

How about one of the Iron Horse Sushiyakotakahamas, or whatever they're called. One step down from the 7point series.

Originally Posted by phUnk

I'm not sure that $900 qualifies as "a little more."

How about one of the Iron Horse Sushiyakotakahamas, or whatever they're called. One step down from the 7point series.

Yeah the IH Yakuza-somethings are a good bet too. IH has some of the best pricing out there, and their shit is good.

Originally Posted by homerjay

How the fuck do you break a star nut?

What can I say? When I crash, I crash hard.

It kept pulling itself out of the fork tube. It's kinda sketchy to be rolling down Porcupine and have the handlebar/fork assembly constantly loosen up.

Thankfully, it didn't break break or I would have shat my pants. Imagine having your handlebars rip right off the tube.

Originally Posted by Arty50

It kept pulling itself out of the fork tube.

KIR in Moab.

Originally Posted by Arty50

It kept pulling itself out of the fork tube. It's kinda sketchy to be rolling down Porcupine and have the handlebar/fork assembly constantly loosen up.

Danger! If you're depending on the star nut to hold things on, you're asking to lose your handlebars and crash. The only time there should be meaningful tension on the star nut is when you're adjusting the pressure on the headset prior to tightening the stem.

The stem is what's holding your bars on. The rest of the time, you can ride without a top cap and star nut and it shouldn't make any difference.

At least this is what I've always been taught. Any real bike mechanics care to comment?

Originally Posted by phUnk

KIR in Moab.

What is really KIR is how we fixed it at the overlook (and then Arty shredded the rest of the trail). Pretty cool.

Originally Posted by Spats

Danger! If you're depending on the star nut to hold things on, you're asking to lose your handlebars and crash. The only time there should be meaningful tension on the star nut is when you're adjusting the pressure on the headset prior to tightening the stem.

The stem is what's holding your bars on. The rest of the time, you can ride without a top cap and star nut and it shouldn't make any difference.

At least this is what I've always been taught. Any real bike mechanics care to comment?

For once, I'm going to agree with Spats! Star nut is just for preloading the headset bearings...stem bolts keep things together.

Originally Posted by SLSki

...I probably wont do much "real" DH, just lift served stuff...

Real downhill is lift-served, most often.