Lightest Alpine Binding

[Core Shot]

minimum DIN 7.



for butters you dont want a heavy and stiff Ski.

Wait, what??

You want to butter and park, at DIN 7, and want the lightest most likely to break binding???

[pfluffenmeister]

I think you mean:

hahaha, youre all bullshit skiers. I bet you cant even do a 180.
Im out. Too MANY motherfuckers in this Forum.

or

hahaha, youre all bullshit skiers. I bet you cant even do a 180.
Im out. Too much motherfuckING in this Forum.

[mfb292]

My DIN and Dick are bigger than yours!
I go Head Kore 93 and Marker Kingpin 13.
Now STFU all

[Ottime]

I'm not really sure what dick size has to do with it.

I'm also a little confused. Are you done with this place, or sticking around. I did some time researching your question, and would appreciate the opportunity to share with you the kudos of info I have uncovered. But not is you are walking out on me. I'm pretty much the only sane person around here, and would love another to share intelligent discourse with.

Oh, and BTW, it is generally not considered safe to use screws to connect your boot and ski, but that would be the lightest for sure, and a minimum of at least DIN 7. Just saying, your search is over, unless you want release.

[Ted Striker]

You can really shave some weight with a lower DIN, and really, as long as you have finesse, you can run the DIN pretty low with no issues.

Removing the spring altogether would save even more weight. It's really only required for skiers who lack finesse.

Trust me, I'm a former tech.

[Ted Striker]

Sheet metal screws was going to be my next post.

There's hope for you yet, JONG.

[iceclimb]

These are light, cheap, and I'd bet the DIN is off the charts...
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Black-Diamond-...-/371893400021

[straightlineorbust]

Anyone try epoxying the boot to the ski, heard with enough finesse it works well.

[Toddball]

Sheet metal screws was going to be my next post.

There's hope for you yet, JONG.

A neat trick with the screw option is to screw swappable sole blocks to the ski; that way you can switch between your Cochise 130s (for maching all over the god-damned hillock) and Cochise 120s (mellow laps with the children). You can even mount multiple sets of sole blocks so you can have different mount locations on the ski; I typically use +/- 16 cm from recommended but you could get away with narrower spacing if you have smaller feet.

Note that you may need to bore some holes through the ski to access the screws that attach the sole block to the boot. If you're concerned with the effect these will have on the ski's rigidity you can always block the holes with blu-tack, chewing gum or other structural polymer.

[plugboots]

You don't use structural polymer for filling bore-through mounts, always use flex epoxy

Duh.

[sfotex]

A neat trick with the screw option is to screw swappable sole blocks to the ski; that way you can switch between your Cochise 130s (for maching all over the god-damned hillock) and Cochise 120s (mellow laps with the children). .

My skis have a wood core with a metal top sheet. Should I use fine or course thread screws?

[Toddball]

You don't use structural polymer for filling bore-through mounts, always use flex epoxy

Duh.

Isn't FlexEpox just rebranded Hubba Bubba? Or is it the other way around?

[Toddball]

My skis have a wood core with a metal top sheet. Should I use fine or course thread screws?

I generally recommend variable-thread bone screws for that purpose:



These have the added advantage of doubling as ultralight emergency bindings for when you forget your boots on your other sole blocks. Remember that they need to be long enough to get through your metatarsals, or your toes if you're a tele person.

[jackattack]

I generally recommend variable-thread bone screws for that purpose

also useful for extremity reconstruction after your retention method fails to release.

[Ottime]

DID YOU GUYS NOT READ MY POST!!???!!! It is generally considered not safe to directly screw your boots to your ski. While I agree the use of flex epoxy will help maintain ski rigidity, you will compromise release. The whole point of a properly utilized binding is to allow proper release when you fuck up. If Benny had been riding with a proper DIN, his ski would have released when he fucked up getting off the chair - A VERY COMMON ISSUE FOR SkIERS!!!!! It is not like this is fucking snow boarding. God, am I the only same person here?

[El Chupacabra]

[pfluffenmeister]

DID YOU GUYS NOT READ MY POST!!???!!! It is generally considered not safe to directly screw your boots to your ski. While I agree the use of flex epoxy will help maintain ski rigidity, you will compromise release. The whole point of a properly utilized binding is to allow proper release when you fuck up. If Benny had been riding with a proper DIN, his ski would have released when he fucked up getting off the chair - A VERY COMMON ISSUE FOR SkIERS!!!!! It is not like this is fucking snow boarding. God, am I the only same person here?

^^^ What if you just wore a bigger boot, say +2 Mondo sizes?
Then your foot can slip out of your boot, but you still get that sweet ultra-light set-up.

[El Chupacabra]

[plugboots]

Screw your boots onto the skis with the appropriate screw based on shear force. Best of both worlds. Need naked pictures of OP's girlfreind to determine correct screw.

[Toddball]

^^^ What if you just wore a bigger boot, say +2 Mondo sizes?
Then your foot can slip out of your boot, but you still get that sweet ultra-light set-up.

Many years ago my parents went skiing with some guy who was visiting on business and rented "comfortable" boots. During one of his inevitable crashes he managed to pop a foot out of the boot, and all my parents saw was a ski flying down the hill with a boot still in it. Dude could have saved a lot of weight with the screw method.

[Ottime]

Ya know sometimes I feel like I am so done with this place and then am reminded why I came here in the first place. Innovation and brilliant problem solving. I'm expecting a big "thank you" from the OP any minute. And you have to wonder, where is alpinezone?

[Damian Sanders]

The upcoming Head Kore is as good as every other Ski in its segment on piste.

No it's not. It's wussified garbage. There's no such thing as an expert level 9lb 189cm 117mm waist inbound ski.

[Damian Sanders]

To legitimately answer the question, I like the Look / Rossignol non-axial3 step in's for a 10 or 11 din binding, they are the lightest, fairly durable for what they are, and perform well. But I know 100lb women who ski a beefier binding than that.

Only $90!

http://www.powder7.com/Look-NX-10-Sk...FdmCswodAHgLQA

Seriously though, they are good bindings.

[Ottime]

^^^^^^^I wouldn't listen to this guy. He has demonstrated on these forums that he is seriously unhinged. Just a kind word of caution: he likes memes, and alternate facts. I would seriously consider his remarks as fake news.

[TrueNorth]

A few years ago I saw a post (#3 in this thread) where swissiphic used carpet tape to attach homemade binding plates to skis, without screws. I thought it was brilliant out of the box thinking, but couldn't we carry it a step further and just tape the boots directly to the skis? This would be even lighter than the screw through the boot idea, and faster, cleaner, and easier to remount than the epoxy idea. A bonus is you can try to pass off the skis as "new" in Gear Swap after you peel off the tape.

Seriously though, I thought Marker Squires were the lightest non-tech non-junior binding.