Holy %$#! buying a new bike (16'MOJO HD v 16 SB5.5)... also how much is my old worth

[volklpowdermaniac]

Yeah so, some moneys came around and i'm down to choosing between two:

last years sb 55 c with GX fox factory float x, fox factory 36, race face turbine dropper- can upgrade to transfer and keep price near ibis

OR

16' IBIS MOJO HD, with Fox factory float 36, Fox Float DPS Factory EVOL, GX drivetrain, fox factory transfer

the prices of both are within 1-2 hundred of each other when all the said and done, i have tested an ibis ripley LS, and ridden other yetis, but not this one, liked both. Yes i considered a butt ton of other bikes, but these bikes are the intersection of the suspension parts i like with a price i can at least tolerate

Guess it's 27.5 vs 29 thing --- for what it's worth, im 5'8.5 short arms and legs, long in the torso, and kinda of broad and chunky at 185....so you know, cultivating the dad-bod

As you'll see below my current rig is an old BLUR LT with VPP, which to be honest, I have lOVED, i have ridden long endurance races, taken it with zero problems through almost all the tricky stuff at angel fire, WP, and crested butte DH, its just been a tank, with that said, if it helps your input on the ibis vs sb, i have always felt a little bit like it was more a bulldozer/hammer and could be more playful and nimble (granted its 10 years old with a semi-wonky build)--- I don't think I can miss with either, unfortunately not near any good demo sites right now and won't be until june 1st, but scared to miss these current deals...
----------------------
My current bike is a 2007 Blur LT with a 2012 Fox Float 36 RC 2, an RP23 rear, XT (crank, rear der) / XTR (shifters, front derail) (2015) , and as of monday, 2017 M8000 xt brakes both front and rear, 180 front and rear, 2x10, a 2016 reverb 125mm external routing, Light Bicyle Carbon Rear with XTR hub, can't remember what front is (bike being tuned right now), but its also upgraded, non carbon , tubeless, frame is obviously well used, but in solid shape, fork/shock has no scratches on stanchions and both have been regularly serviced and rebuilt as needed.....bike will be freshly tuned.... so big question, how much is it worth as is? more parted out? Given that I am buying the new bike with lower end drivetrain, should I opt to just swap some of the parts, the brakes will obviously go over fine, will a x10 rear XTR shifter work on a 1x11- if so is it worth it to just swapping parts between bikes and then get what i can for downgraded blur? Also would obviously have a race face turbine to sell new after putting on fox transfer from the SB....

man, this is kind of getting real now, probably the most expensive single purchase of my life and one im not likely to duplicate for many years...

[evdog]

Hard to go wrong with either bike. Make sure you get to test ride both and pick the one that fits and rides better. Or whichever has a more bad ass color

Selling the old bike will leave you disappointed. Keep it as a backup if you have room, or expect to get little for it even if it has some nicer components. If you have the parts they replaced maybe put those back on and sell the nicer stuff separately, or as you mentioned put it on the new bike. Putting new parts on it will not get you much in return. I think I only got $700 for my '05 heckler in 2012.

[radam]

Not having ridden either bike, all I can say is they both sound sweet, so either find a way to demo them back to back or just flip a coin and call it a day. Unless you bought the wrong size frame, I feel like you can't go wrong.

[funkendrenchman]

I'd say $700 is right for your old bike. 10 year old bikes aren't worth much unfortunately. I'd go for the HD. Still not a big fan of 29ers. Both have great suspensions.

[justcuz]

Another vote for the Mojo HD. That bike is capable as hell, proven at this point.

[volklpowdermaniac]

Yeah 700 is fine, probably won't even ask that much, gonna swap out the xt brakes to new bike but other than that just gonna leave it, will sell on here for 500 hopefully that moves it quickly, how much will take off GX 1x11( der/shifter/crank- basically anything not the brakes, be worth 300? 200?

Finally is the xt 1x crank the move or something from race face?

[skaredshtles]

That bike of yours is very likely going to be worth more $$ parted out.

And if $$ is really a concern, keep an eye on the major mfg'rs - they all make VERY capable bikes in that category, and will be less $$ and likely have better specs.

And since you're looking crabon, you'll have the opportunity to duplicate the purchase/go through the process again sooner than you think.

[smmokan]

Yeah 700 is fine, probably won't even ask that much, gonna swap out the xt brakes to new bike but other than that just gonna leave it, will sell on here for 500 hopefully that moves it quickly, how much will take off GX 1x11( der/shifter/crank- basically anything not the brakes, be worth 300? 200?

Finally is the xt 1x crank the move or something from race face?

You should get $300+ for the GX groupset... I'm selling my take-off NX groups for $280'ish.

From personal experience with the XT crankset on the HD3 (both last year and this year), there's no need to upgrade. It's absolutely bomb-proof and works flawlessly. I had XT kits on all my HD3 and Mojo 3 demo bikes last year, and I never had a single problem with anything XT.

[skaredshtles]

Ironically this came up in my feed just a few minutes ago:

http://www.bikemag.com/gear/bikes/be...ZJUjrSOOsDv.97

[volklpowdermaniac]

Ironically this came up in my feed just a few minutes ago:

http://www.bikemag.com/gear/bikes/be...ZJUjrSOOsDv.97

I mean I have the funds to buy a nicer bike finally after four years on an old 26er, but I don't have I discriminate funds which is why looking for good value which both of these represent being last years models but well equipped... I totally see the value of the mid tier bikes you showed, but I'd like to do the buy once xt story.

With that said, I am f'in terrified of breaking the carbon.

[smmokan]

Don't be. Carbon isn't nearly as fragile as people like to think, unless you're a superstar DH'er. Knock on wood, my bikes go thru the wringer and I haven't had a single issue.

[volklpowdermaniac]

Ordered

[MataPaw]

I think the carbon will be plenty strong

[volklpowdermaniac]

Bought the yeti: question: seeing as this is a 2016 modern year, but 2017 forks dropped in April-may of 2016, how can I tell if my 36 got the e16 damper or needs to be sent in, essentially is there a way to tell 16 vs 17 model year?

[jm2e]

It's going to either be FIT4 (E16) or FIT HSC/LSC. Both very good. Just count the # of adjustments.
FWIW, my petite wife feels like the FIT4 is plusher and more sensitive. But the HSC/LSC gives you way more tune-ability.

[Andeh]

IIRC you can enter the product serial number into the FOX site and it will tell you what model it is.

[volklpowdermaniac]

It's going to either be FIT4 (E16) or FIT HSC/LSC. Both very good. Just count the # of adjustments.
FWIW, my petite wife feels like the FIT4 is plusher and more sensitive. But the HSC/LSC gives you way more tune-ability.

Yup, that part I get my 26 is a fox 36 HSC/LSC RC2... my question was specific to the FIT4... which received an updated tuning (shim placement) between the 2016 FIT4 36 and the 2017 FIT4 36, apparently the new E16 is a lot smoother in small bump compliance and just less harsh overall, with that said if you have the old damper profile (2016or earlier) on 32/34/36 fit 4 systems fox will update it for you for a small fee (50ish plus ship)

[jono]

Expect you'll be happy with that purchase, but those bikes felt pretty different to me. SB5.5c rode pretty different from the SB5 or 6 for me, too, but it might go better once tuned in. It felt high by comparison, though, seemed like the shorter chainstays would have gone better with more sag than recommended, maybe. (Obviously bigger wheels are taller, but the factory setup seemed to go beyond that.)

[mfa81]

Bought the yeti: question: seeing as this is a 2016 modern year, but 2017 forks dropped in April-may of 2016, how can I tell if my 36 got the e16 damper or needs to be sent in, essentially is there a way to tell 16 vs 17 model year?

there is a serial number thing you can check, or you can just call fox and ask, they will know based on the serial

[volklpowdermaniac]

there is a serial number thing you can check, or you can just call fox and ask, they will know based on the serial

Got it, will do! Just got the antsy in the ole pantsy waiting for it to come in! Anybody have experi de with the DT Swiss E1900 spline wheel set that is stock stock on it?

[smmokan]

To get the most out of that bike, you'll probably want to sell the DT Swiss wheels and get a nice, wide set of rims. They're ok, but are definitely the weak spot of the build.

[volklpowdermaniac]

To get the most out of that bike, you'll probably want to sell the DT Swiss wheels and get a nice, wide set of rims. They're ok, but are definitely the weak spot of the build.

Yea I was curious about the whole width thing, when we talk about a wider rim width, are people mostly talking about inner width or outer, whats a good width inner?outer? for a 2.3-2.4 tire, is there any thing respectable in that width that won't it me even further into financial ruin

[smmokan]

For a bike like the one you bought, I think the sweet spot is 30-35mm inner width for a ~2.4" tire. That's my personal preference, at least.

Financial ruin is all relative.... under $500?

[volklpowdermaniac]

Yeah under 500 would be ideal. (or even cheaper as long as they are a real live upgrade to whats on there)

I was thinking around 30 mm too. would consider used as well i suppose.

or perhaps just the run the first pair into the ground and then see whats what.

[milestogo]

I would ride the stock wheels until you come across a deal on some sweet used wheels. I scored some Ibis 741s last year for 600, and if you are patient you'll find something much better than your $500 budget might otherwise allow