Do you burnish your metal scraper?

[DaffyJeffy]

I need to do some p-tex repairs this afternoon and was wondering about your metal scraper prep. I've been doing p-tex repair since the 80's and I typically use a metal scraper that I file a square edge on and lightly deburr but on occasion I'll grab a card scraper (cabinet scraper) out of my woodworking stuff (I'm a pro handyman carpenter) and use it too. A woodworking scraper is always burnished. There seems to be inconsistency in the ski tuning world about whether a metal scraper gets burnished or not. Probably just personal preference combined with technique but I'm curious as to what the ski tuners here do.

[GeezerSteve]

I use a piece of 1/8" A2 tool steel bar stock I bought for a project a few years ago and didn't use cuz I decided on 01 steel instead. It hasn't yet required burnishing but when it does I'll do so with a Dynafile/Scotchbrite belt.

[Alpinord]

I use a plane and steel blade/bar, but metal scrapers work best when burnished, as you know. New ones should come burnished and I don't think it's common practice because 'it's more work' and or ignorance, for DIYers to keep them burnished.

Got any good tips on burnishing scrapers to share?

[galibier_numero_un]

I'm curious as well. My scraper hygiene could stand some improvement. The last time I researched this, I came up with a video similar to this one.

https://youtu.be/6KqPFQHqWJg

When I file the narrow edge, I don't use a vice. I lay the scraper on the bench and hold the file perpendicular to the bench with a block of wood. It's a bit cumbersome to move the scraper against the file.

Anyone have a better technique?

... Thom

[Alpinord]

I'll review the whole video later, but for the initial filing and stone work, the scraper prep looks similar to edge tuning. Seems like you could use a side edge guide if you were concerned about consistency to hold the file and stones.

[XXX-er]

I use a scraper edge sharpener made by swix for the plastic sharpeners, it is screwed to my bench

I use it ^^ some times for my steel woodworking scraper but mostly I use a single cut file which I lay on the bench and work the scraper over while holding at 90degrees more or less

I don't over think this too much and after every pass i turn the scraper around

[DaffyJeffy]

That video was very good. I'm not nearly as technical in my approach (maybe I should be?) but the way he draws the burnishing tool toward the burr side as he draws across the scraper is what I do. If you go down the youtube rabbit hole on this subject, there is a wide range of opinions on how to draw a burr. I found a nice oval shaped burnishing tool at an antique shop for a few bucks many years ago and it works quite well. I don't know if the steel of a Chinese screwdriver would be hard enough. Any hard steel would work though.

I have a Stanley no 80 cab scraper I've used (with extreme caution) on ski bases. I don't think I'd advise it, lol.

[galibier_numero_un]

I'll review the whole video later, but for the initial filing and stone work, the scraper prep looks similar to edge tuning. Seems like you could use a side edge guide if you were concerned about consistency to hold the file and stones.

Yeah ... basically anything to keep me close to a right angle. I tend to not mess with burnishing, but maybe I should give it another try.

... Thom

[Timberridge]

You can buy a burnishing tool for $20 or use a screwdriver.
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...CAoaAo1-8P8HAQ
I bought a burnishing tool a few years ago because i was doing some cabinet work on hardwoods and I now use it all the time--it gives a consistent amount of curl. Run the scraper over a mill bastard file laid flat on the table, then burnish all 4 sides--takes about 1 minute. If you don't burnish the scraper regularly it takes 3x the number of passes to flatten the repair.

[Alpinord]

You can buy a burnishing tool for $20 or use a screwdriver.
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...CAoaAo1-8P8HAQ
I bought a burnishing tool a few years ago because i was doing some cabinet work on hardwoods and I now use it all the time--it gives a consistent amount of curl. Run the scraper over a mill bastard file laid flat on the table, then burnish all 4 sides--takes about 1 minute. If you don't burnish the scraper regularly it takes 3x the number of passes to flatten the repair.

Cool & thanks. It looks like they make a 'must have' tool. Here are their thorough "How to sharpen a scraper " instructions. Keeping the burnishing rod at a consistent angle for turning the hook, seems like a good feature. I've read about other burnishers and techniques in the past, but never really pursued them. Among others, this option and tool seems fairly idiot proof and quick.

The bigger the stone the better for honing, unless in a guide. For squaring the edge while plexi scraper sharpening, to assure that the scraper edges remain straight and close to 90 degrees, a scraper sharpener (with panzer), a 300mm panzer file in a wood vise works great or a full sheet of silicone carbide on a flat surface. (The sandpaper on a flat surface also keeps the re-dressing of Ski Visions stones flat and straight). If you have one, using the panzer would work but a longer bastard or 2nd cut file would be better for squaring metal scrapers.

The hand filing in the 1st video may lead to variable pressure along the edge. This may cause the edge to be something other than straight if you are not careful. I'm definitely curious how effective a side edge guide with short file and stones/diamonds would work for squaring and honing the edge with the scraper in a vise vs a flat file and large stone.

Here is StewMac's video on the Timberline scraper burnisher:

[dunfree]

You need a burnisher to make a scraper a good cutting tool. On wood it should produce nice shavings, not shitty dust. Here's a decent video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KqPFQHqWJg
the stewmac tool looks silly, but their scraper is nice http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...e_Scraper.html but too narrow for skis likely. If you are buying a burnisher Hock makes a nice one http://www.hocktools.com/products/sb.html or a V8 pushrod works just as well, better than a screwdriver and they are cheap.

[Timberridge]

the stewmac tool looks silly, but their scraper is nice http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...e_Scraper.html but too narrow for skis likely.

Que? Have you actually used their burnishing tool or just extrapolating? I'm sure a v8 pushrod from a 351 Cleveland works well too, but the tool is idiot proof (which is what I need ) as it holds the rod at a consistent angle so you get a uniform curl. It works well on the standard 6" cabinet scrapers which is all you need for p-tex repair.

[old goat]

File and stone sharpen the edges of the scraper. Lay the scraper flat on the bench and burnish the FLAT side with the burnisher tipped a few degrees. Flip the scraper over and repeat. Now hold the scraper in a vise and burnish the edge--tipping the burnisher a few degrees one direction for several passes and then the other. I have a store bought burnisher; it doesn't work any better than the chuck end of a HSS drill bit but I don't cut my hand with it. By burnishing the flat side first some feel you get a better burr than if you only burnish the edge.

One thing I've learned about scraping wax with a plastic scraper: with a metal scraper, scraping wood or ptex, you tip the scraper towards you if you're pulling and away from you if you're pushing. With the plastic scraper and wax it works better for me if I do the opposite--push with the scraper tilted towards me, pull with it tilted away from me.

A thin card scraper is nice for leveling a repair because you can use your thumbs to slightly bend the scraper on the push stroke. This creates a convex edge which allows you to level the repair without touching the surrounding ptex. Of course you can indent the repair if you go too far.

[DaffyJeffy]

With the plastic scraper and wax it works better for me if I do the opposite--push with the scraper tilted towards me, pull with it tilted away from me.

I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who does this. I'm not a perfectionist...I file tail to tip sometime if I'm too lazy to flip the ski around. I assumed this plastic scraper technique would be heresy, lol.

[LC]

Sharpen and deburr with a normal ski file before each use. They're just skis guys.

[DaffyJeffy]

Sharpen and deburr with a normal ski file before each use. They're just skis guys.

A square edge scraper as you describe is just fine for soft, drip candle p-tex, but if you are using hard p-tex ribbon or rope, or removing base material, you will need a burnished scraper.

Try it and you won't regret it! Despite us nerding-out on this subject, it very easy for someone to learn. Give it a shot.

[dunfree]

yeah, it's skis. a scraper with a burr cuts, a scraper without one makes more of a mess.

I have a store bought burnisher; it doesn't work any better than the chuck end of a HSS drill bit but I don't cut my hand with it. By burnishing the flat side first some feel you get a better burr than if you only burnish the edge.

larger diameter can be easier, i.e. bought ones, larger drill bits or a cheap push rod timberridge only has his Audi wagon collection on blocks in the front yard but you can buy one online for $3 delivered.

A thin card scraper is nice for leveling a repair because you can use your thumbs to slightly bend the scraper on the push stroke. This creates a convex edge which allows you to level the repair without touching the surrounding ptex. Of course you can indent the repair if you go too far.

I wouldn't buy stuff sold as thin scraper stock - that stuff's .010" and will slice your fingers and is way more flexible than you likely want for skis. get something thicker like .032" (.8mm - pretty common thickness). If that's wrong and you like the thin stuff - how does it work for you?

[Timberridge]

No pushrods in Audis. No reason a 272 degree long duration camshaft out of an inline 5 wouldn't work though. Would be beefy.