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  1. #26
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    33,440
    Quote Originally Posted by abraham View Post
    So you're saying we should use derbyflex plates on carbon skis?

    I'm saying you don't have to use anything. But if some shop guy used a glue that got the core wet through the binding holes, filling those holes with epoxy is certainly going to bond the wood core and seal the cf layers better than wood glue or a plastic plug hammered in with no glue, which I've seen done innumerable times. Beyond that, 1" steel plate for alpine, 1/2" steel plate for b/c to keep the weight down.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    33,440
    Quote Originally Posted by sierraskier View Post
    Not to de-rail the conversation but I went back and re-read this and want to know more about this Kusalhasa you speak of. Because that sounds kind of like the changes I would want to make to the Kusala - more kick in the tip (and tail if possible) and slightly larger, more bullet-nose shovel like the Lhasa. I could do without the larger shovel but more kick and in a 191 the ski would be perfect. Does this unicorn exist?
    Almost maybe in a splatula, which is a 191 spat 1cm wider all the way around. I believe mcski was trying to sell his. I kept a pair.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    OREYGUN!
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    14,565
    ^my friend here in town has a unmounted pair.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Tahoe
    Posts
    949
    Quote Originally Posted by steepconcrete View Post
    ^my friend here in town has a unmounted pair.
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    Almost maybe in a splatula, which is a 191 spat 1cm wider all the way around. I believe mcski was trying to sell his. I kept a pair.

    Sounds interesting but 144 underfoot is way too much for me. The Kusala dimension in a 191 with more kick in the tip and tail, or possibly a medium-flexing 191 lhasa fat sound more like what I'd be after.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,019
    Oops, I just banged in regular plastic binding plugs in mine. Should I drill those out and epoxy in wood plugs?
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  6. #31
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Posts
    33,440
    Plastic plugs are fine, detrusor. But I have my own slightly fantatical approach on them. Rough, flamed and clean are the basics of bonding epoxy to plastics. I just quickly sand or score the plastic on the sides of the plugs because it's so smooth. No flambe needed. Fill the hole with enough epoxy to splash a little when pounding it in and it will spray nillie willie, so gloves or paper towel helps. You almost want a thin puddle of resin on top of the hole to make sure it seals the cf threads right under the topsheet around the hole. If it leaves a high spot, rasp it off after it dries, then remount. The epoxy leaves no void, penetrates the wood, embeds into and onto the scratches on the plugs and seals the carbon fiber on top. Rock solid results with that.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Wasatch
    Posts
    7,272
    So I have decided to just mount my Countdown 110 and resell these. Post 17 is accurate I think for the list.

    I left skifishbum a message today. Will give him first chance then down the list. Will be easier for local in Utah but can ship. I am in for $250 currently.

    Seems like splat has a plate and I'm sure the Tgr crowd has solutions.
    Pics attached to see about hole conflicts.


    I need to go to Utah.
    Utah?
    Yeah, Utah. It's wedged in between Wyoming and Nevada. You've seen pictures of it, right?

    So after 15 years we finally made it to Utah.....


    Thanks BCSAR and POWMOW Ski Patrol for rescues

    8, 17, 13, 18, 16, 18, 20, 19, 16, 24, 32, 35

    2021/2022 (13/15)

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    1,251
    I know I know, tech talk JONG! Sorry for the hijack.

    Is there a way to tell if a pair of Kusalas are pure CF or CF/glass layup?

    I thought I read somewhere Splat said the CF is laid at 45deg for the CF pure layup.
    stay outta my line

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Wasatch
    Posts
    7,272
    Maybe splat can chime in on topsheet but these are 8.25 lb carbon pures.
    I need to go to Utah.
    Utah?
    Yeah, Utah. It's wedged in between Wyoming and Nevada. You've seen pictures of it, right?

    So after 15 years we finally made it to Utah.....


    Thanks BCSAR and POWMOW Ski Patrol for rescues

    8, 17, 13, 18, 16, 18, 20, 19, 16, 24, 32, 35

    2021/2022 (13/15)

  10. #35
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Posts
    33,440
    I was thinking about this thread and forgot to note that the topsheets/cores on my own Kusalas had 22 holes per ski before I mounted for my bindings. Since I shipped every pair made, I had to beg powdorks old used ones off him. Paper thin, beat to hell bases and edges and a swiss cheese delight. I gave them a light grind, hit the edges and then topped off each hole with epoxy, rasped it off and mounted. Same batch as yours, whyturn.

    The Kusala core is pretty much the thickest core I put in any of the Bros. All it needs is to be kept dry.
    Holes close together don't mean shit, really, if they're all epoxied right.

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Tahoe
    Posts
    949
    I have been skiing my 191 Lhasa Pure blems with 196 topsheet with 3 mounts for like 5+ seasons as my daily driver. When I first had em mounted the shop tried to tell me they were pretty close to being done.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    1,251
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    The Kusala core is pretty much the thickest core I put in any of the Bros. All it needs is to be kept dry.
    Holes close together don't mean shit, really, if they're all epoxied right.
    So using maple golf tees cut down, sanded and hammered in with Marine Epoxy should be good?
    stay outta my line

  13. #38
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Posts
    33,440
    Absolutely.

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