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Thread: Enve nipple corrosion
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12-19-2016, 10:14 AM #51Registered User
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you could try penetrating oil (as opposed to WD40)
probably impossible to safely get heat on thoseLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-19-2016, 10:27 AM #52
Enve's response (this morning) is to cut the spokes. Now I need to determine what length spokes. My DT Swiss 350 hubs are not standard Enve hubs (they use 240s), so they can't officially comment on the spoke length.
Anybody have any idea whether the 240s and 350s have the same sized hub flanges?
Seth
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12-19-2016, 10:33 AM #53
Depends which 350 and which 240. Measure your flange diameter (center of opposite spoke holes), measure hub-center-to-flange distance R and L, measure or look up the ERD for your rim, and use a spoke length calculator, e.g., http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator
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12-19-2016, 10:34 AM #54Registered User
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how about measuring one of the spokes you could get loose?
if you cant get some of the spokes loose how about just leaving them?Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-19-2016, 11:34 AM #55
The ones I've disassembled looked that bad or worse. Just crank on them. If something strips, cut it. You've got steel working on aluminum, stuck to steel. Something's going to go, likely the nipple.
And yes, just measure the spokes you have if you do end up having to replace a few. That's far more accurate than trying to measure a hub if you've never done it.Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp
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12-19-2016, 12:54 PM #56Registered User
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Don't forget to check drive side spokes and brake side spokes for different spoke lengths
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-19-2016, 01:39 PM #57
Thanks guys. I'll pull one of the brass nipples back off and measure the front spokes.
The nipples that I can't get off are broken into pieces. When you look into the rim, you see remnants of the nipples corroded onto the spokes. However, they aren't a shape you can get any sort of a wrench on, and the hole is too small to get a needle nose pliers down into. I think I'll probably have to cut the spokes.
Seth
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12-20-2016, 04:01 AM #58
For the rear, PB Blaster in all the threads (just a little from the hub side to be safe) and soaking a few hours to a day might save some more measurements. Penetrating oil and the like works best before you stress the corroded nipple.
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12-20-2016, 08:47 AM #59
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12-21-2016, 11:29 PM #60
Again though......petroleum(ish) solvents and plastic. Which costs more, the rim or a spoke? Just throwing it out there. That stuff is made for metal on metal, not metal on metal also in an expensive carbon rim.
Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp
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12-22-2016, 07:59 AM #61
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12-22-2016, 10:22 AM #62
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12-22-2016, 11:50 AM #63
agree. That stuff stays with you after you wash off with gasoline. Spokes are cheap. Don't even consider re-using them. Just cut and replace. if your shop doesn't have a perfect match, go to another shop. They aren't going to be upset that you didn't spend the fifty cents with them.
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12-22-2016, 11:24 PM #64
Cut the spokes. Pull two of the good spokes: drive side & brake side. Hook the J-bend over the end of a mm ruler and get their respective lengths. Go to local bike shop and buy the replacements you need plus a couple extra of each length.
Consider having the LBS retune the wheel for you. Carbon rims are easy to get laterally true, but balancing spoke tension is hard for the casual home wrench, but will make them 100x better.However many are in a shit ton.
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12-23-2016, 11:09 AM #65
I stand corrected, get new spokes. Not sure what I was thinking since I wouldn't re-use spokes when replacing a rim, so harder yet to justify here if there is any corrosion in the threads.
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