10 speed chain compatibility?

[bagtagley]

I've never thrown away a quick link. I keep them in the toolbox, camelback, tool bag, etc. I've used them on Shimano and SRAM chains, and have never had any issues. Never knew you weren't supposed to reuse them.

It just occurred to me that now that I'm on 11 speed, my stockpile of 9 speed quick links may be worthless.

[joetron]

Soaking chains also removes ALL the lube from the inner contact points where the pins and rollers are doing all the work. This is where the lube and that nice sticky factory grease is really important. You have to be very methodical when re-applying lube to make sure its getting all up in there, otherwise you end up with shiny, lubed outer plates but not enough lube where it is really needed.

[XXX-er]

http://www.parktool.com/product/chai...-system-cg-2-2

something like this with simple green is pretty quick and you leave the chain on the bike

yeah they say don't reuse the sram quick links, when I toss a chain I keep the link for a spare

When junior was young and crazy free rider he broke 2 of those Sram quick links just riding along so i took to riveting his chains

[Mr. Toad]

3 chains? Ppffftt...

It works for me and I'm getting 3x longer use out of my chains.

[El Chupacabra]

Soaking chains also removes ALL the lube from the inner contact points where the pins and rollers are doing all the work. This is where the lube and that nice sticky factory grease is really important.

I hate that "nice sticky factory grease." YMMV.

I know the chain manufacturers like to say that's the best possible lube for a chain, and to NEVER EVER soak a chain in degreaser because it removes all that grease, but... in practice, I find that sticky grease attracts tons of grit and dirt, which just turns into a grinding paste that destroys the chain and the rest of the drivetrain.

First thing I do with a new chain, fresh out of the package, is soak it in degreaser until I get it completely clean.

My bike chain lube of choice: Dupont teflon "multi use" spray from Lowe's. About $6 per can. Doesn't attract too much dirt, but best in dry conditions; tends to wash off a little too easily in wet. Supposedly the same as Finish Line Dry, but a lot less expensive.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DuPont-11-o...ricant/1059839

[joetron]

Haha. I hear ya.

I'm a total company shill, but I have found that the Shimano factory chain grease has improved over the past few years and I'm not compelled to hose new chains with degreaser before installing anymore. I haven't touched a chain from that other company for a while, but their factory grease was the stick icky.

[TBS]

I'm with El Chup - No offense but this multiple chain thing seems kinda OCD to me. All else equal you will use up three inventoried chains in the same overall time as if you Purchased each time the original stretched or broke. Sure it's great to have a spare when traveling, or if you live a long way from LBS, but what other benefit? You're still cleaning and lubing individually, so no time savings. Hedge against inflation?

I ride in volcanic dust that grinds the shit out of drive trains. Run SRAM chains because of their power links for easy maintaining. If you wash (simple green & water, drip dry) after a ride and clean/dry lube the chain every 25 hours, you can get at least six months before noticeable stretch, and absent trauma, several years on chain rings, cassettes & derailleurs.

That said, I've broken two chains and one power link so far this season. Second one exploderated after maybe fifteen hours - no trauma either, just light pressure shift and crunch...

Good idea to keep the power link pieces. extras in pack means not looking for the ones that get flung into space after fingers slip during re-attachment in the field...

[teledad]

Buy cheap chains (I like KMC, but SRAM is good as well). Wipe with a rag and re-lube every few days (particularly for MTB). Replace them when they start to stretch. It isn't really that hard.

[simple]

Buy cheap chains (I like KMC, but SRAM is good as well). Wipe with a rag and re-lube every few days (particularly for MTB). Replace them when they start to stretch. It isn't really that hard.

To make it easier there is a $12 tool to check when the chain stretch is excessive. Somehow nearly every cyclist I know doesn't own one.

[teledad]

To make it easier there is a $12 tool to check when the chain stretch is excessive. Somehow nearly every cyclist I know doesn't own one.

If you don't want to shell out the $12, just use a 12 inch ruler (preferably metal but plastic or even a tape measure will do in a pinch). Measure pin to pin, if the centers of the pins don't line up with the ends of the ruler it's time to replace the chain.

[joetron]

If you don't want to shell out the $12, just use a 12 inch ruler (preferably metal but plastic or even a tape measure will do in a pinch). Measure pin to pin, if the centers of the pins don't line up with the ends of the ruler it's time to replace the chain.

But you have to make sure the chain is stretched tight when you do this, because chains don't actually 'stretch', its the wear of materials in the contact points in the pins and rollers that cause bigger gaps between the outsides of the rollers - where the drivetrain teeth sit.

[XXX-er]

But you have to make sure the chain is stretched tight when you do this, because chains don't actually 'stretch', its the wear of materials in the contact points in the pins and rollers that cause bigger gaps between the outsides of the rollers - where the drivetrain teeth sit.

this^^ unless you got 3 hands it might be hard to stretch the chain to measure it

using the inner measuring cabability on a set of calipers might work better than a ruler, or take the chain off and hang it from a nail which is what I do when I replace a chain so I can use the old chain hanging next to the new chain as a reference for where I will break the links

but for 12$ why not just buy the park go-no-go chain checker?

[teledad]

If you leave the chain on the bike while you measure it the derailleur provides plenty of tension for measurement. If you're taking it off the bike then hang it (but why take it off unless you're going to replace it?). Use whatever works for you, just check it regularly.