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  1. #1
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    Type 2.1 clutch going bad?

    My X1 rear derailleur has been "hanging up" for lack of a better description. I hear a tiny squeak when riding despite all pivot points being properly lubed, etc.

    When moved by hand I can't feel anything that doesn't feel right, but in rough fast rock gardens the rear end rides like shit and I am getting chainslap.

    Occasionally on slow rooty uphills the rear feels like it gets caught on roots and rocks. So weird.

    These are the "non-serviceable" mechs.

    Anything I can actually fix, or somewhat expected on a $160 der with around 800 hard miles?

  2. #2
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    Nov 2008
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    Switch to full Shimano drivetrain for ultimate reliability. Sram requires frequent adjustments and has a tendency to suffer from chainsuck.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by polenta View Post
    Switch to full Shimano drivetrain for ultimate reliability. Sram requires frequent adjustments and has a tendency to suffer from chainsuck.
    Shimano marketing robot?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Shimano marketing robot?
    No, that's me.

    But I'm more subtle (subie) robot.

    Warranty that RD.

  5. #5
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    Have you tried deconstructing the clutch and cleaning and regreasing it all? That's probably your last bet. There is a video on one up components website that makes taking it all apart easy.

  6. #6
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    Chain too long?
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driver View Post
    Have you tried deconstructing the clutch and cleaning and regreasing it all? That's probably your last bet. There is a video on one up components website that makes taking it all apart easy.
    For a sram rd?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rludes025 View Post
    Chain too long?
    Chain stretch enough to cause this to start happening?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    For a sram rd?
    Yes, it is easy to do... at least on the xx1. (havent tried it on any of the others) Plus, if you pull off the plastic dust cap cover, you can actually adjust it with a large Torx. After 3 seasons on mine, cleaning the clutch and relubing made a huge diffrence.

    Here is a link. It shows the x9 but the xx1 is pretty close to being the same: http://www.mtbiking.com.au/workshop/...lutch-overhaul

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Chain stretch enough to cause this to start happening?
    The only way chain stretch would cause that is if the chain was way too long in the first place.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    Yes, it is easy to do... at least on the xx1. (havent tried it on any of the others) Plus, if you pull off the plastic dust cap cover, you can actually adjust it with a large Torx. After 3 seasons on mine, cleaning the clutch and relubing made a huge diffrence.

    Here is a link. It shows the x9 but the xx1 is pretty close to being the same: http://www.mtbiking.com.au/workshop/...lutch-overhaul
    Only works for type 2 not the type 2.1 like I have.


    Chain length has always been fine. Was going to get a new chain anyway when/if I got a new RD.

    I think that's really my only option at this point.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Only works for type 2 not the type 2.1 like I have.


    Chain length has always been fine. Was going to get a new chain anyway when/if I got a new RD.

    I think that's really my only option at this point.
    That link does work. Thats what I did on my 2.0 and I just went and looked at my 2.1 and its the same as the 2.0 Pull the plastic plug where is says 2.1 there is a large tore (T55 but an 8mm hex will work) behind it. That is the adjustment for the clutch. On the other side of the derailer there is a 3mm hex. That is what you unscrew to take the clutch apart. If you take the clutch apart see the link above about winding the spring ( I believe it is 1.5 turns if my memory is correct.) and make sure you pay attention to the orientation of the roller bearing when removing. It must go back in the same way for it to work.

  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    Ummm, fail. DO NOT ATTEMPT ON A TYPE 2.1 CLUTCH!!!

    They hide a little pin in the bearing cap screw that destroys the clutch body as you unscrew it. Also makes it impossible to re-thread the cap. Bastards.

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  15. #15
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    Oct 2003
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    Seattle
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    Bummer. I'm getting chainslap as well after about a year of use with a 2.1. I should double check chain length but it seems ok. Just manipulating the cage with my hands there isn't much resistance. I also have a Shimano derailleur with the adjustable clutch. I have that set up a lot stiffer and the bike is silent. Not sure if that difference is intentional by Sram on what.

  16. #16
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    I rode with it last night. Not gonna last long with no cap over the bearing. New RD and chain in the mail.

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